Halyard ideas

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gregcope

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Hi,

- I will need replace my wire->double braid 10mm halyards at some point.
- Ex-Solent boy once mentioned that on some of his halyards had dyneema for just the standing part and mouse-lines for the rest; saves money, weight aloft, and loads of cordage in the cockpit
- this works for my roller reefing Genoa!
- I only need 6mm Dyneema from a breaking strain POV
- My Clutches are 10-12mm
- Handling 10-12mm is best
- 6 to 12mm dilema ...
- I have spare halyards / topping lifts for emergencies
- Spiny Halyards can be really thin (stretch/breaking strain not an issue) until they get to handling/clutch
- Main has to be a slight compromise as I need to winch around 50% of the halyard, which is also roughly where the reefing points would be (ie from 50% hoist, the working end needs to be 10-12mm for handling, clutches and winches)
- Better stretch characteristics is good
- Thin is good as it is cheaper / reduce weight aloft
- I like splicing / have the tools / winter is here/coming (ie no sailing ... :-(

I have seen some clever halyards which are thin Dyneema for the standing part, spliced to Braid on Braid for the working end (see - Core-To-Core Bulk Splice on http://www.apsltd.com/c-1539-splicingservices-halyardssheetsguys.aspx) with an overlapping cover for the clutched/winched section.

Ie for the main you could have a section of thinner Dyneema for the in mast section that is never handled. The overlap could act as a cover to bolster the area that needs winching / handling. The end of the standing end could be cheap braid on braid that is only used for the initial hoist.

Only challenggette to the plan is instructions on how to do a 12 core to braid on braid splice with overlap as per the apsltd example.

Ideas/feedback?
 
I'm after something sort of similar. I want to replace my reefing pendants with something nice and thin and slippery at the sail end, but thick enough to handle easily and use existing winch and jammers at the cockpit end. Obviously this means the splice holding the full load, so it needs to be reliable - or perhaps it would be safer to have the space-age line the whole length and simply additional layers over the cockpit part. Adds to the price, of course...

Pete
 
I was chatting to the English Braids rep the other day about if they had an "approved" braid on braid to 12 strand dyneema splice and he said they currently don't.

I have done this splice a number of times but it's my own method and even though it works for me I'd be a little nervous encouraging others to use it without further testing.
I use it for a mainsheet bridal system on my old racing boat and for slab reefing on my 3/4 tonner, kicker and did use it on the main halyard until recently when I change to all cruising Dyneema with the cover removed for the none handling section.

Essentially I pull the cover back on the B/B and make a simple spliced eye in the core and taper it well back.
I then take the 12 strand and make a spliced eye though the b/b eye and taper.
I then pull the cover over the interlocked splices and at a suitable place tuck the cover into the core of the 12 strand and taper again.
On the main halyard I did I then ran it though my sewing machine just in case.
However my Slab reefs have never slipped and they have seen some pretty tough conditions.

On halyards I think that only the main needs to be dyneema in terms of reducing stretch.
Jib, spinny, pole up haul, topping lift can all be b/b.

Its certainly worth pulling your new halyards into the mast using a mousing line and coiling and bagging the excess at the base of the mast for the winter,
or even simply removing them.
This stops them going green, hard and yucky.
 
Last edited:
Javelin said:
I was chatting to the English Braids rep the other day about if they had an "approved" braid on braid to 12 strand dyneema splice and he said they currently don't.

I have done this splice a number of times but it's my own method and even though it works for me I'd be a little nervous encouraging others to use it without further testing.
I use it for a mainsheet bridal system on my old racing boat and for slab reefing on my 3/4 tonner, kicker and did use it on the main halyard until recently when I change to all cruising Dyneema with the cover removed for the none handling section.

Essentially I pull the cover back on the B/B and make a simple spliced eye in the core and taper it well back.
I then take the 12 strand and make a spliced eye though the b/b eye and taper.
I then pull the cover over the interlocked splices and at a suitable place tuck the cover into the core of the 12 strand and taper again.
On the main halyard I did I then ran it though my sewing machine just in case.
However my Slab reefs have never slipped and they have seen some pretty tough conditions.

On halyards I think that only the main needs to be dyneema in terms of reducing stretch.
Jib, spinny, pole up haul, topping lift can all be b/b.

Its certainly worth pulling your new halyards into the mast using a mousing line and coiling and bagging the excess at the base of the mast for the winter,
or even simply removing them.
This stops them going green, hard and yucky.
Click to expand...

Stripping the cover off parts of a covered dyneema rope is what the rope manufacturers prefer - safe and more money in their pockets.

If you splice core of the B/B to the dyneema in a way that does not add to much bulk to the covered splice (preventing the splice w/cover from passing through blocks and clutches).
A safe solution could be this
Make sure the dyneema part have sufficient length that it will always carry the load
Use a length of B/B that is so long that you can use part off the cover on the dyneema section that will go through clutches.
That way you will get a dyneema core with cover siting in the clutch.

Have you tried a end for end splice to join dyneema with the core?
 
gregcope said:
Found this which it the nearest I have seen to DB to 12core splicing. Here they are splicing thiner 12 core to bigger DB - similar to what I am suggesting.

http://l-36.com/halyard_splice.php
Click to expand...
If you can do this splice in such a way that cover is pulled over the thin dyneema for the length that goes into the clutch you would have the full strength of the dyneema while loaded and a cheaper tail section in conventional DB.

But I'm wondering if using rope of triple braid construction is at least easier (but maybe more expensive).

I have done this for my cascading cuningham setup.
 
knuterikt said:
But I'm wondering if using rope of triple braid construction is at least easier (but maybe more expensive).
Click to expand...

Having done some maths in the other tread, this only makes sense when you replace allot of dyneema. For example in my main halyard idea, I need em ought dyneema to enable a third reef, which means I save little.

Am doing the maths on reef lines as these have a longer tail, in proportion, and a shorter length under load.
 
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