HRs of that vintage were very substantially built, and HRs generally tend to be quite well looked after by caring owners. I'd take a very close look at the teak deck, because replacing it would be an expensive project (HR teak decks have rather narrow planking, meaning that labour costs for replacement are higher than average).
>HR teak decks have rather narrow planking, meaning that labour costs for replacement are higher than average)<
Only if you do a like-4-like replacement, but there is no need to. Upping plank width from say 50mm to say 75mm won't make any real cosmetic difference but will save 1/3rd the labour costs.
Not sure about that one, Ken. The plank width is somehow a HR characteristic. I've seen a replanked HR with wider planks and it just didn't look right. Could be an issue on resale, too.
I can give you an idea of the re-decking costs as a friend of mine has just costed it. In the Hamble he was quoted £25-30k. HR in Sweden quoted "approx £18k" if he took the boat back to them. Sounds like a great excuse for a Baltic cruise!
Sounds like a very good reason to avoid teak decks to me! We looked at several Westerly Oceanlords, A Sadler Starlight and a HR for sale with 'problem' decks and know of several Najad and Malos too. They certainly do look nice and add a look of quality, but IMHO they are an expensive time bomb waiting to blow up in the face probably of a 2nd or 3rd owner down the line. One Oceanlord we looked at, the owner had paid £25,000 for deck replacement on a boat that was for sale at £85,000, another for sale at the same price needed the same replacement even though the broker described it as only needing minor work!
<hr width=100% size=1><font size=1>Sermons from my pulpit are with tongue firmly in cheek and come with no warranty!</font size=1>
Weren't Oceanlords fitted with a cheapo "teak deck" which was just thin teak veneer strips on top of some sort of ply? I've seen a couple of awful Westerlys (think they were Oceanlords) where the teak had been worn right through to the scrappy ply underneath.
Yes that's correct. The boats with 'solid' teak decks had worn down the same amount and left screws showing (possible leak into the grp) where the plugs had worn away and often leaving the Sikaflex higher than the wood. I watched one owner with a sharp chisel paring each seam down to match the worn away wood.
<hr width=100% size=1><font size=1>Sermons from my pulpit are with tongue firmly in cheek and come with no warranty!</font size=1>
Been there, done that! What a bl**dy job!! The Sikaflex on my HR's deck (about 12 years old at the time) was sticking up about 3mm. I used a small scalpel-like craft knife to slice the Sikaflex off and then belt-sanded gently to restore a flat surface. Lost a few teak plugs in the process. It's possible to get new low-profile screws and new teak plugs to solve this, but at the moment that's still on the "Projects to do" list.
Our berth neighbour has this problem on a 382 and the original screws unbelievably have round heads. He is trying to raise the enthusiasm to withdraw every single one and replace each with a normal countersunk head and the re-plug each and evey hole!
I have to say I love the look of teak biut nowadays I'm happy to look at it on someone else's boat. We have it in the cockpit but it isn't screwed down so no problem there and at least the strips are dead straight and relatively easy to replace, that said a Moody 42 owner near us did that job this year and it took ages.
We have moulded non slip with a deep diamond pattern that is effective, though the deep pimples harbour dirt. Previously we have had mostly painted non-slip decks which were effective but needed freshening every 3 or 4 years. A nearby Co 32 did this with 2 pack paint + grit which seems like it will last forever and looks very good too. Nothing is perfect on boats, at least not for long!
<hr width=100% size=1><font size=1>Sermons from my pulpit are with tongue firmly in cheek and come with no warranty!</font size=1>
From the info I have on 'round topped screws' used for teak decking, they are the better of two solutions. They have 'flat' undersides to the head therefore spread the load more evenly. Countersunk screws can, and have done, split the teak planking if torqued up too much. I know they are a pain in the proverbial, losing their wooden caps, but I suppose HR, Najad, Malo etc do have some experience.
Other advantage is that these boats teak is thick enough to have another 'fix', burying the round head a bit deeper ......
Surely burying the round head deeper is just as longwinded a job as replacing the screws with lower profile ones? Either way each and every plug has to be drilled out and the screw removed, the hole drilled deeper (with a great deal of care), the screw replaced, a new plug glued in place, cut flush and sanded smooth.
Personally, nice as teak looks, I would stick to something simpler given a choice.
<hr width=100% size=1><font size=1>Sermons from my pulpit are with tongue firmly in cheek and come with no warranty!</font size=1>
Drilling holes is easy, put collar/depth guide on drill and you're away! There's a gadget on the market that can churn plugs out pretty quickly ..... all the comments about it being a 'ball aching' job, I agree with. Given the choice I'd not have teak, but when it comes to resale, even with the thinner teak decked yachts, I think the queue of potential buyers would be a bit short.
Has anyone thought of buying a Ben/Dufour/ Bav etc WITHOUT the teak deck, huge saving up front, then offering to have one laid for the new owner ..... you don't have to deal with teak, new owner gets brand new teak deck on boat several years old .... if he wants it!
I assume you mean fewer people would want the same boat secondhand without teak decks? You may be right but certainly when we were looking at Oceanlords the preferred option was the one with treadmaster with the 2nd option painted non-slip. We did get close to buying a new Sun Oddysey 40 but decided against in the end in favour of an older secondhand boat The SO40 had teak as an 'option' though when we selected this we were told all the boats 'in the on order list' were specced with teak decks as standard, not having them would delay delivery. They even offered not to charge for the teak deck but I said that wasn't the problem, we just didn't want it!
<hr width=100% size=1><font size=1>Sermons from my pulpit are with tongue firmly in cheek and come with no warranty!</font size=1>
Been following this thread with interest. I'm a huge fan of a teak deck for many reasons, amongst which are the practical and aesthetic appeal. I just plain hate textured GRP decks, or treadmaster or clever paints.
Against this is the maintenence of teak, which is considerable. I think it's worth it.
A couple of observations:
1) I'm sure everyone is talking about cheese-head rather than round-head for initial deck fastenings
2) I have a problems with shallow cheese-head fastenings showing through on our deck. I re-fastened a cockpit section using countersunk start of this season and all is well.