Gybhing a cruising chute

[HappyHunter]

Very useful post recently on cruising chute raising and lowering, but can I seek some advice on gybing one. Last time I tried it the thing got wrapped round the forestay and made the classic hourglass. Not a lot of fund, so any advice gratefully received.

 

[steve_cronin]

Fit the sail with two sheets just like a genoa. Also fit a small block to the stemhead fitting and run the tack line backwards through this and back to a cleat in the cockpit (or use a stern mooring cleat as you will have finished with the chute long before you tie up!)

When it's time to gybe, ease the tack line so that the sail goes forward a little leaving a good gap between itself and the forestay. As you pass through the dead astern position you will be able to pull the slack sheet through the gap (the sheet should have been rigged ahead of the forestay) and as the boat settles onto the new course re-tighten the tack and set your new sheet.

Job done!

Even with a chunky rolled up foresail gybing by this method is simple (even singlehanded with the aid of an autopilot!

Steve Cronin

 

[Robin]

Steve

We inherited a (very large) CS with our new boat fitted with a snuffer, does that help or hinder gybing? We had a spinnaker on the old boat also with a snuffer, but gybing it meant you left the snuffer up/downhaul lines the wrong side of everything and in practice we snuffed it and reset it every time. Our new CS comes with sheets and guys for both sides as for a spi (was set on the pole like a spi if dead downwind) but we are looking for simplicity bearing in mind 2 crew and 1200 sq ft of sail. Seems like having both sheets on genoa style would be a lot of weight in light wind conditions so I had thought about just one, with the other ready to attach after snuffing for a gybe. My other half has very specific rules for spinnaker use so simple stress free use is imperative or marital rights could suffer!

 

[steve_cronin]

If the snuffer sock lines are taken ahead of everything, say to the front of the pulpit, then they shouldn't get in the way of the "eased" chute as you will be pulling it through between it's tack tape and the forestay.

As to the weight of sheets, on our (then) Hunter 30, we used 8mm which was plenty strong enough (I did consider 6mm but thought 8 better for handling). It weighed less than 65% of the weight of the sail maker's recommended single 10mm as well.

The system I recommended is not of my own creation, it is commonly used on all the Hunter range for their "Scoopers"

Steve Cronin

 

[summerwind]

Agree that the two sheets method is the way to go. My sheets are twice the length of the boat (plus a bit).

As well as slackening off the tack, I also slacken off the halyard before making the gybe. This allows the sail to belly well forward of the genoa.

As you gybe through the wind, let go of the working sheet and allow the chute to fly out well ahead of the boat. As you continue the turn, haul in on the new working sheet. Then comes the adjustment stage. Haul in on the halliard. Haul in the tack and then get boat on new course, adjusting sheet as necessary.

After a few mishaps I finally learned not to be in too much of a hurry when hauling on the new working sheet. The way on the boat and the drive from the main keeps the boat moving through the water and maintains the bite of the rudder. Almost every time I stuffed up on gybing the chute was because I tried to hurry.

Good luck

 

[Robin]

Thanks Steve, our sheets are all 14mm though the extra area may carry the weight OK. We're off to S Britanny next week so will give it a try if I'm allowed.