GRP and stringers (moved from practical forum)

G'day trevera25,

Just to clarify things first, we are looking at a 25 foot motor cruiser built around 1975 and made of fibreglass. Please correct me if I have made any mistake.

You have removed a number of structural stringers as the timber inside had swelled and split the fibreglass, and you now wish to replace them.

You have also removed some or all of the internal trim and want to know if this forms part of the structural reinforcing of hull.

Stringers:
As has been stated the timber was used as a form only to provide a basic shape to lay the glass over to form the stringers. The timber (or other material) in boats of this vintage did not (in 99%) of boats provide any strength, but because a chopper gun was used to lay-up the glass, the thickness may be in some doubt.

You can build new stringers with almost any base material, DRY timber is the cheapest. If you treat the timber with a wood preserver then coat it with epoxy resin it should outlast both of us.

Some "closed Cell" foam is suspect and will take up moisture. Closed Cell balloons and epoxy resin do not absorb water and can be made to almost any profile.
You could even use PVC Conduit cut in half and glued into position with a fillet of micro fibres or micro balloons to avoid sharp changes in direction. Whatever you use remember to make a large radius on all external and internal corners or your glass will not be strong. Think of a Bell shape with a wider top and you will be close. You will need 8 layers of 256 gram cloth designed for use with epoxy, this will be stringer and lighter then normal wax resins, and provide a secondary chemical bonding, normal wax resin does not stick well to old wax resin.

As for removal of items like the galley of bunks you need to take a bit of care, as many bunk sides were made of marine ply and ran along (not across) the hull to provide extra stiffness. Dividers inside the bunks and lockers also helped stiffen and support the hull shape. So you need to look at what was removed and thick it was, if it's just a 3/8th layer of glass or 1/4 inch ply without a glass covering then it should be ok, but anything on the heavy side would have been for support or stiffening.

I hope this helps, keep us advised on your progress it's good to see the older boats still in action.

Avagoodweekend......
 
You are correct about the sequence to date and type of boat , kicking myself for not asking first . The walls that were removed were all 1/4 inch max and glassed in across the hull , not along (like the sides of a unit) , and they were relatively easy to remove as there wasn't a lot of glass. The only one that was different was the bulkhead between the cabin and the cockpit, this was still quite thin but well glassed in. So can I assume that this would be the only structual wall do you think. There wasn't anything substantial running lenghtways apart from bits of 2X2 , or are these significant, and thanks to all so far
 
G'day trevera25,

It does sound like the fittings were just just that and not structural, however the 2 x 2 sounds very much like a combination of structural stiffening and a possible floor support, so should be replaced.

Avagoodweekend......
 
oldsaltoz
Regarding this not being the place for epoxy. It seems to me a great number of people with boats think epoxy has been sent to them by god so that they no longer have to do careful work, after all epoxy fixes everything. If you look through West Epoxies statistics you will see that it is 13% stronger than polyester. I don't know about you but all my repairs have at least a 100% safety factor built in, after all they aren't on a racing boats. There are many things epoxy can't do, For instance laminate fiberglass mat, it does however make a great glue especially if the parts don't fit just right.
I don't beleive in mixing materials You need a very good memory to use epoxy for instance a repair done with this material can only be recovered with epoxy. In the case of this boat you have three sections on the side of the boat to which only epoxy will stick that will be probably the whole side of the boat.
Lets see epoxy $100 a gallon. Polyester $100 for 5 gallons or the best choice Vynalester $150 for 5 gallons. For those living in the U.K. double or triple the prices.
By the way lets see some pictures of the interior of this boat I don't understand the owners discription.
 
After a search of fiberglass suppliers I did find one that sells mat that could be used with epoxy resin. The cost was double that of standard mat. which was probably why I never heard of it. Most if not all epoxy resin suppliers state that their product should not be used with mat. I learn something every day
 
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