Grinding Paste for Seacocks

[graham]

Our blakes cone type seacock is allways very stiff to use.Last year I tried polishing the surfaces with fine wet and dry before greasing and reassembling.after a few months it was stiff again.

Ive heard that you should work the surfaces together with grinding paste to get it right.

Anyone know where to get it and what to ask for exactly?

 

[sailorman]

valve seating paste available @ most back st moto factors

 

[graham]

Thats my mission for tommorow then. Cheers. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[owendov17]

In the old days when cars were simple it was possible to get valve grinding past in various grades from Halfords and the like. This would do the job if you could get hold of some /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Malish]

Are you sure you are not squeezing most / all the grease out from between the two halves of the seacock? Grinding paste is only really needed if the faces are pitted or if they have gone pink and you want to reassure yourself that it is only skin deep. On reassembly use the pukka Blakes grease, put plenty on, carefully insert the inner cone, rotate a few times to evenly spread the grease but apply minimum downward pressure, only finger tighten the screws then, using a screwdriver to hold the screw, fit and tighten up the locking nut - the inner cone should be easily rotated with just the pressure of your little finger.

 

[savageseadog]

You can scrape some grit off a bit of wet and dry.

 

[Mrnotming]

I feel moonfire has the best answer so far. I used waterpump grease in the past which is like frozen butter! It does not squeeze away easily and allows a slack fit, with the locknuts done up of course! This advice is only for Blakes pattern conical type seacocks.

 

[kunyang]

Ensure you use it evenly going around the valve. Don't go up and down or you could make things worse

Dave

 

[milfordman]

If you do use the valve grinding paste, the correct procedure was to start with the course grade and finish with the fine grade. First start with the surfaces clean and dry. Then place a small dab of the coarse grade on just a couple of places on the surface to be mated. Now bring the faces together gently and rotate half a revolution clock wise then rotate back half a revolution anticlockwise. Repeat this for approx one minute. The paste will now have been worked out of the surfaces being ground, so dab fresh paste on again, and repeat rotation. After a while examine the surfaces, the area that is mating intimately will develop a matt finish. As long as the matt area is all the way around the circumference then you will get a good seal. Do not expect to cover the whole surface with a matt finish. Finish off with the fine grade. Do not for get to finish by making sure you have removed all of the grinding paste (Wash it with parrafin),you do not want to continue the process every time you open or close the seacock. Best of luck

 

[ex-Gladys]

Unless you can feel grooves in the cone or the seacock you don't need to regrind. Moonfire is precisely correct about the reassembly process. Don't overtighten.