tcm
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what's the best way to glue a small thing 3cm x 3cm to rough grp. Do i mix up some two-part epoxy? or should i use araldite? or wot?
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gluing things to GRP
- Thread starter tcm
- Start date
StugeronSteve
New member
Araldite ought to do the job, unless it's a towing eye you're trying to fix.
<hr width=100% size=1>Think I'll draw some little rabbits on my head, from a distance they might be mistaken for hairs.
<hr width=100% size=1>Think I'll draw some little rabbits on my head, from a distance they might be mistaken for hairs.
jfm
Well-known member
Not araldite. Too brittle
No Nails type glue from B&Q is good
Very strong self adhesive velcro (I'll give you some)
Ordinary gorilla snot (aka silicone sealant) is good if the 3x3 thing is lightweight
Wot exactly are you gluing to what?
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No Nails type glue from B&Q is good
Very strong self adhesive velcro (I'll give you some)
Ordinary gorilla snot (aka silicone sealant) is good if the 3x3 thing is lightweight
Wot exactly are you gluing to what?
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aitchw
New member
Depends a bit on what the 'small thing' is made of but epoxy would be my first thought. Araldite is, I think, epoxy in a tube (or two) or you can just beef up some normal stuff with the fine chopped fibre filler to stiffen it up so it doesn't flow so readily while it sets. Degreased and dry surfaces go without saying as does a bit of roughing up of the surfaces.
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tcm
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Re: application
i am gluing this, cept onto the grp. Lots of them to hold on the insulation
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i am gluing this, cept onto the grp. Lots of them to hold on the insulation
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steve28
Active member
Re: application
I agree with the previous post, use no nails. i have handrails held on inside the boat with no nails, its flexible to an extent and sticks to most things.
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I agree with the previous post, use no nails. i have handrails held on inside the boat with no nails, its flexible to an extent and sticks to most things.
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snowleopard
Active member
Re: application
looks like a Bighead. they are designed to be sandwiched in the laminate but for a low stress application like yours, any of the modern mastic-type glues should do, e.g. sikaflex
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looks like a Bighead. they are designed to be sandwiched in the laminate but for a low stress application like yours, any of the modern mastic-type glues should do, e.g. sikaflex
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gjeffery
New member
Depends on how you plan to load the fitting.
You will not want the adhesive to flow, if the surface is not horizontal. In general, Polyester filler, as sold by the tin in motorists shops, is inexpensive, effective, has good grab and fills any gaps, ensuring total contact. It is also used by boat builders and any excess may easily be trimmed off before final set.
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You will not want the adhesive to flow, if the surface is not horizontal. In general, Polyester filler, as sold by the tin in motorists shops, is inexpensive, effective, has good grab and fills any gaps, ensuring total contact. It is also used by boat builders and any excess may easily be trimmed off before final set.
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abraxus
New member
If you wont ever want to remove it use 3m 5200, if you may want to remove it at some future point then use 3m 4200.
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jfm
Well-known member
Re: application
Ah right, them things
Assuming you have ruled out self tappers, then use no-nails type glue. Those black bases are too flexible to use a rigid glue like araldite
There seem to be 2 qualities of no nails glue. Some seem to hve lots of filler powder to make it cheap, and it comes out of the gun a bit dry. The better more spensive stuff is stickier, like an evostick with some thickener added, and it sticks like poo to a blanket. Get that sort imho. Evo-branded is the good stuff and Gripfill in the green cardboard tubes is excellent, but some of the BQ own brands, and possibly the no-nails brand, are not as sticky imho.
What material is the insualtion? Would "hard velcro" with an industrial strenght self adhesive backing be a better way to fix it, and quicker to do? I'll give you a sample, made by 3M
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Ah right, them things
Assuming you have ruled out self tappers, then use no-nails type glue. Those black bases are too flexible to use a rigid glue like araldite
There seem to be 2 qualities of no nails glue. Some seem to hve lots of filler powder to make it cheap, and it comes out of the gun a bit dry. The better more spensive stuff is stickier, like an evostick with some thickener added, and it sticks like poo to a blanket. Get that sort imho. Evo-branded is the good stuff and Gripfill in the green cardboard tubes is excellent, but some of the BQ own brands, and possibly the no-nails brand, are not as sticky imho.
What material is the insualtion? Would "hard velcro" with an industrial strenght self adhesive backing be a better way to fix it, and quicker to do? I'll give you a sample, made by 3M
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sailorman
Well-known member
Re: application
NO NAILS IS CRAP. ( acrylic based )
us Pros use Gripfill, it comes in green tubes available from builders merchants.
its also more thixotropic so wont slump
NO NAILS IS CRAP.NO NAILS IS CRAP.NO NAILS IS CRAP.NO NAILS IS CRAP
<hr width=100% size=1>Nil iligitmo carborundum
NO NAILS IS CRAP. ( acrylic based )
us Pros use Gripfill, it comes in green tubes available from builders merchants.
its also more thixotropic so wont slump
NO NAILS IS CRAP.NO NAILS IS CRAP.NO NAILS IS CRAP.NO NAILS IS CRAP
<hr width=100% size=1>Nil iligitmo carborundum
VicS
Well-known member
I have found car body filler quite effective for bonding wooden pads to the inside of grp but for anything critical or likely to take any serious load I would go over the top as well with a couple or more of layers of cs mat.
Things can then be screwed to the wood.
The good thing about the body filler is that if you warm the grp up with a hot air gun first it sets quickly enough for you to hold it firmly in place while it does so.
I have more recently used the type of filler containing glass strands that is sold for bridging holes. I expect this to give a better bond but have not yet tried to remove one.
<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple>Ne te confundant illegitimi.</font color=purple>
Things can then be screwed to the wood.
The good thing about the body filler is that if you warm the grp up with a hot air gun first it sets quickly enough for you to hold it firmly in place while it does so.
I have more recently used the type of filler containing glass strands that is sold for bridging holes. I expect this to give a better bond but have not yet tried to remove one.
<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple>Ne te confundant illegitimi.</font color=purple>
yoda
Well-known member
Found some stuff called fix and seal. Have had good results for similar type things and has been useful to have onboard over the summer.
Yoda
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Yoda
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tcm
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Re: application
the insultaion stuf i am using is self-adhesive, but for supprting the weight and inhibiting any start of it hanging off, i'm using these suports
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the insultaion stuf i am using is self-adhesive, but for supprting the weight and inhibiting any start of it hanging off, i'm using these suports
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tcm
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Re: application
yep, they are very similar to bigheads, tho these are another brand techmarket "plaspins". cheers.
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yep, they are very similar to bigheads, tho these are another brand techmarket "plaspins". cheers.
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DepSol
New member
Re: application
FB 40 that should do it.
<hr width=100% size=1>Dom
watch this space
FB 40 that should do it.
<hr width=100% size=1>Dom
watch this space
andy_wilson
New member
Araldite is 2 pack epoxy, with thickening agent (eqivalent to micro balloons) to reduce slump.
Looking at your application, Araldite might work out a bit expensive, depending on total no. to be fixed.
If you have loads to bond, get an epoxy pack and some micro balloons to make it a paste. This would be the best 'stick' you will get to GRP, but they will need supporting on non-horizontal surfaces until the epoxy has gelled.
If the contact surface is good, contact adhesive would work, without the problems of slump. Coat both surfaces, allow to tack, position and whack round the bases with a hammer and hey presto.
Liquid nails will do if the loading isn't too great, as your spec. below seems to indicate.
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Looking at your application, Araldite might work out a bit expensive, depending on total no. to be fixed.
If you have loads to bond, get an epoxy pack and some micro balloons to make it a paste. This would be the best 'stick' you will get to GRP, but they will need supporting on non-horizontal surfaces until the epoxy has gelled.
If the contact surface is good, contact adhesive would work, without the problems of slump. Coat both surfaces, allow to tack, position and whack round the bases with a hammer and hey presto.
Liquid nails will do if the loading isn't too great, as your spec. below seems to indicate.
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Katouf
New member
Re: application
Sailorman - have you, perchance, had a bad experience with No Nails?
My own experience seems to agree with your opinion. Battens glued onto the saloon deckhead to take 2 sheets of varnished ply (replaces the famous Westerly headlining) lasted all of one month before some parted company to give a sad case of droop!
This winter's job is to glass the battens in place. Very much a case of a sledgehammer to crack a nut
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Sailorman - have you, perchance, had a bad experience with No Nails?
My own experience seems to agree with your opinion. Battens glued onto the saloon deckhead to take 2 sheets of varnished ply (replaces the famous Westerly headlining) lasted all of one month before some parted company to give a sad case of droop!
This winter's job is to glass the battens in place. Very much a case of a sledgehammer to crack a nut
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kds
New member
Re: application
I like a man who says what he means.
So you wouldn't recommend NO NAILS then ?
Ken
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I like a man who says what he means.
So you wouldn't recommend NO NAILS then ?
Ken
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charles_reed
Active member
Make sure the GRP is clean by using acetone to thoroughly clean it off then use epoxy with some chaffed chopped strand mat. I usually put a short screw through the part to hold it in place for the 6-10 hours the epoxy takes to cure.
You can use straight epoxy with filler (talc or fullers earth), but that's quite brittle.
It's better to use an un-accelerated epoxy, which rules out fast Araldite
By the way Araldite is 2-part epoxy adhesive.
I've found West or SP system the most forgiving epoxy to use - but they're all similar only differing in viscosity and amount of accelerator used.
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You can use straight epoxy with filler (talc or fullers earth), but that's quite brittle.
It's better to use an un-accelerated epoxy, which rules out fast Araldite
By the way Araldite is 2-part epoxy adhesive.
I've found West or SP system the most forgiving epoxy to use - but they're all similar only differing in viscosity and amount of accelerator used.
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