Glue to tack canvas prior to sewing

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Anonymous

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We are in the process of making a number of canvas things such as awnings where pinning or tacking would be impracticable. I understand that it is common practice to glue the parts together to hold them together temporarily while sewing. Can anyone confirm whether this is a good way and in particular, what glue would be best? Our fabric is acrylic and said to be 'PU Coated'. I was wondering whether Copydex would be a good choice? Many thanks.
 

Gunfleet

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You can buy very narrow two sided sellotape (from Point North, for example), about 1/4 inch wide. You apply it to the seam, fold over and hey presto, it's temporarily held.
John
Ps use leather needles in an ordinary sewing machine and it will sew that acrylic canvas quite well.
 

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Just a tip as an addition to JohnM's correct comments. Keep a small quantity of a water and washing-up liquid mix (not too weak) handy to your sewing machine, dip your finger in it and just wet the seam/hem you are about to sew. This will lubricate the needle and prevent it sticking and breaking the thread.

You will find this almost essential if you use the double-sided tape on PU coated acrylic, as the glue on the tape adds greatly to the friction. It also helps the foot slide over the material which in turn helps prevent 'bunching'. We don't usually bother to wash it off as the weather does that for us as a rule!!

Good luck, Jerry
 

MedMan

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I support JohnM's recommendation. It is called Seaming Tape and you can get it from Point North in 6mm and 9mm widths. (Page 14 Catalogue Numbers DS6 and DS9) If you sew through it, however, the needle will get very sticky, very quickly and sewing will become very slow and jerky. That's why the tape is so narrow. The idea is that you set the swing needle to swing wider than the tape so the needle never goes through it and does not get sticky.

Don't even think about Copydex. It is horrid, messy stuff, takes ages to dry and will stain the fabric unevenly.
 
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Thank you, and thank you all, that's a brilliant response. We don't have a zig-zag stitch, we bought one of the very old Singers on Ebay but unfortunately not the one with that feature, so we are going to have to sew through it. I guess we will have to use the water and washing up liquid.
 

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You could do two rows of stitching - one each side of the tape. It could be quicker! It would give you a stronger job too.
 

jerryat

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Hi Lemain,

We use a bog standard old Singer too, and have made all of the awnings, dodgers etc on our boat using it. Ours doesn't do zig-zag either, but it's not a problem, just keep the stitches fairly long and (as has been mentioned) do two rows if the seam in question is carrying a heavy 'load'. By the way, you don't need to soak the seam with the washing up/water solution, just wet it (if the materials are pvc coated) or dampen it if is of an absorbent nature. As our machine is hand operated, I tend to do about 10"-12" at a time, stitch that, then wet again.

It really does make the job, if not a pleasure, at least not too much of a 'drag'(!) /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Cheers Jerry
 
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Hi Jerry, thanks for the support. We have some fairly big projects in mind and all the material on board. I don't think you can have too much shade in the Med and the Nauticat 42 has a lot of glass. Even on a sunny March day when it is 8 degrees outside, the inside temperature is far too warm without opening up. David
 

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Yes Copydex is OK, used sparingly. for heavy jobs apply it to both surfaces, alow to dry and then press rthem together.

To reduce friction on your machine foot, put strips of paper on top, sew through them, then rip them off.

The best thing is a bench mounted industrial machine with "walking" foot.
No need for glue, tape nothing, just sews anything to anything without any slipping. Takes a decent weight of thread too. You can pick an old one up for next to nothink, bloody heavy though - has to live in the garage.
 

MedMan

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A hot knife is very useful with acrylic. Run it very quickly down a cut edge to seal it and prevent it fraying. I would experiment on an offcut first though, as if the knife is too hot or you don't move it fast enough you will melt more than you want to.
 
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[ QUOTE ]
A hot knife is very useful with acrylic. Run it very quickly down a cut edge to seal it and prevent it fraying. I would experiment on an offcut first though, as if the knife is too hot or you don't move it fast enough you will melt more than you want to.

[/ QUOTE ]We were planning to use pinking shears; is that a good idea as an alternative? Some of the cuts will be quite long as we are making an awning over the boom and a hot knife might be tricky.
 

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Hi David,

The hot knife method is the best way of sealing the edges. However, I use a small lighter fuel powered soldering iron with either a rope-cutting bit fitted (although it works just as well with an ordinary soldering iron bit) and just run this along the edges.

In my view, using pinking shears is not a good idea as the material(s) will almost certainly fray, then you're into constant repairs! Yes, it's time consuming, but it's very worthwhile as even hot-sealed edges will begin to fray after a year or two of U/V and wind effects.

Agree with you about not having too much shade in the Med. We made virtually all of ours when we arrived down there the first time and could decide what was needed and where. You have probably already got this in mind, but don't forget to make detachable covers for your hatches. This will not only keep things cool below, but prevent or substantially U/V crazing to the acylic - unless you are all glass of course!

Regards Jerry
 
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Hi Jerry, Thanks - we'll try that. I think that we will do the hatches as well but we haven't yet worked out how to fasten the covers. I don't really want to put studs onto the deck (teak). What is the best method?
 

MedMan

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I agree with Jerry that pinking shears are not a good idea. It would make heat sealing very difficult and that is really the best way. Like Jerry, I use a gas soldering iron with a rope sealing end. I was using the term 'hot knife' in a generic sense.

What will work with your hatch covers depends upon the design of the hatches. We have done ours to be a very tight fitting with bungy inside the bottom edge seam. We sort of roll them on and the bungy holds the bottom edge firmly across the corners. However, this will only work if there is sufficient clearance to allow the hatch to close with the cover in position. (Ours are Lewmar Ocean hatches)
 

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Hi David,

Yes I agree with you re the studs - we didn't want to do that either. Our solution is not disimilar to Medman's, in that we formed a seam round the base through which we ran a length of thinnish line the ends of which exited midway along one side. We slip the cover over the hatch, pull on the lines, which in turn pulls the cover tight under the rim. As Medman rightly says, there does need to be a slight gap under the rim in order for this 'system' to work, though in our experience (also Lewmar Oceans) the gap is quite sufficient.

Hope this helps a bit

regards Jerry
 
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Jerry and Medman - many thanks for all the help. So we will now have plenty to occupy us now that we are about to leave Chichester Marina and lose WiFi internet and an excellent TV signal!! We leave Chi on Friday, for a nomadic existence /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

jerryat

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Hi David,

How marvellous!! Have a really great time, it's a fantastic way of life IMHO!! I'm sure you'll never regret a single moment! Just a mini correction to my previous post ... the tie lines exited at a corner (not at a midway point) 'cos it makes tying it easier. We tried midway first but it was difficult to get enough tension .... only just remembered!

regards Jerry
 
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