Glue for Teak grating for somebody with Epoxy allergy

AndyL

AndyL

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www.marinechandlery.com
I need to repair a cockpit grating but am severely allergic to epoxy after years of osmosis repair work. So I need a non-epoxy based waterproof adhesive. I suppose I could use Sika 291?
 
I have just done mine with Polyurethane Glue. This cures in the presence of moisture, so dampen each side slightly. It "Foams up" and expands to fill gaps, and is waterproof.

Gorrilla is one trade name, but beware Gorilla also now sell PVA glue, which is completely different.
 
Rafiki said:
I have just done mine with Polyurethane Glue. This cures in the presence of moisture, so dampen each side slightly. It "Foams up" and expands to fill gaps, and is waterproof.

Gorrilla is one trade name, but beware Gorilla also now sell PVA glue, which is completely different.
Click to expand...

dampen one side only is what i have read & its messy to use, wear latex gloves :encouragement:
 
I have used resorcinol adhesive for decades, which is a dark purple resin (consistency like treacle) and a powder hardener, for anything which is liable to get wet, even when the part is underwater. I believe that is the same type of adhesive that is used to make marine ply. Trade name was (is?) Cascophen but this is no longer available locally and so I have found an identical product from Germany.
One major advantage in my country is that is totally resistant to UV rays and it also does not fail or go soft, like epoxy does sometimes, when the wood becomes hot in the sunshine. Also excellent for making laminated tillers, beams, etc.
 
PuffTheMagicDragon said:
I have used resorcinol adhesive for decades, which is a dark purple resin (consistency like treacle) and a powder hardener, for anything which is liable to get wet, even when the part is underwater. I believe that is the same type of adhesive that is used to make marine ply. Trade name was (is?) Cascophen but this is no longer available locally and so I have found an identical product from Germany.
One major advantage in my country is that is totally resistant to UV rays and it also does not fail or go soft, like epoxy does sometimes, when the wood becomes hot in the sunshine. Also excellent for making laminated tillers, beams, etc.
Click to expand...

Aerodux 500 was similar, no powder just 2 liquids mixed equal parts
 
AndyL said:
Thanks, I will try Cascamite.
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Don't. Read the data sheet.
www.hallmarkfraulo.co.uk/assets/pdf/Wood_Glue_Cascamite_TDS_HF.pdf
Oily timbers, such as teak, present problems with the "oils" inhibiting a satisfactory bond.
Degreasing is normally required; this can be achieved by wiping the surface with washing up liquid.Sanding can also remove surface grease, but if the adhesive is not applied shortly afterwards there are likely to be problems of case hardening where the oils have surfaced again.
Click to expand...
Cascophen is suitable and is still available.
 
Last edited:
andygc said:
Don't. Read the data sheet.
www.hallmarkfraulo.co.uk/assets/pdf/Wood_Glue_Cascamite_TDS_HF.pdf

Cascophen is suitable and is still available.
Click to expand...

I agree 100%.
I only stopped buying Cascophen when chandlers started to stock epoxy instead when this became the 'fashion' in my country (Malta) and, unfortunately, Cascophen became unobtainable. Fortunately I have found a German product that is identical and I have family members who live in Germany who can get it for me whenever they come to visit.
If Cascophen is available in your area go for it, especially if the wood will be continually wet.
 
PuffTheMagicDragon said:
I have used resorcinol adhesive for decades, which is a dark purple resin (consistency like treacle) and a powder hardener, for anything which is liable to get wet, even when the part is underwater. I believe that is the same type of adhesive that is used to make marine ply. Trade name was (is?) Cascophen but this is no longer available locally and so I have found an identical product from Germany.
One major advantage in my country is that is totally resistant to UV rays and it also does not fail or go soft, like epoxy does sometimes, when the wood becomes hot in the sunshine. Also excellent for making laminated tillers, beams, etc.
Click to expand...
What is the brand name of this German adhesive, please?
 
There are some hard curing non foaming but filling and very mildly foaming and filling polyuretanes available now.

I'd try one of those for teak.
Not sure about UK brands, maybeyou can get bostik?
 
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