Gloom, just when I thought I had nothing to do this winter, a deck leak appears

[tillergirl]

Pretty certain that rebedding the quadrant twix coach sides and deck will do it.

Any suggestions for the bedding compound please?

 

[burgundyben]

Arbomast BR - non setting butyl rubber mastic, I'ver had great success with it.

 

[TobyJug]

I use Arbomast BR its a butyl rubber bedding compound rather than an adhesive, available in Grey or teak,does does not set but rather it firms up. Trims can be removed without destruction,cleans up with white spirit.available from Marine superstore Port Solent, and its reasonable priced.
Philip

 

[tillergirl]

That seems to be 2 - 0. I certainly don't want an adhesive and I guess the fact that the leak has started is an indication of the movement that exists.

 

[ronsurf]

Would this work on my rubbing strakes?

 

[OldBawley]

Liveaboard on a 68 year old wooden boat. The Med offers sun and heat for months, then torrential rain. Laying new teak decks ( before the Internet age ) I made a mistake. All chalking had to be redone. Cutting the polyurethane out, routing the grooves, and re-chalking would take months and even worst knees, not to mention the price.
Decided to leave the polyurethane in and cover the whole boat in clear polyurethane. Used Coelan.
Every year some minor repairs, after 17 years I removed the Coelan and coated again. Never one drop of water. Essential on a liveaboard yacht.
I coated the decks in Holland, same wet climate as GB. Cruising South, de boat dried more and more resulting in some cracks that had to be repaired. The second treatment 17 years later was on bone dry ( 15 years of Med cruising ) decks. No more cracks.
Expensive, stinky, hate applying the stuff, decks are slippery without anti slip pearls. No leaks. Dry.
Two inches of wood with a breathing watertight coating. Worth the price.

 

[tillergirl]

Umm, interesting. TG originally had a laid teak deck (1") over quarter inch plywood. 1960's plywood so I guess not the best. Repeated caulking didn't work so I resolved to lift the deck because the plywood certainly needed replacing. After experimenting with plug and screw removal, I calculated that it was going to take me two and half years at my rate of progress to remove all the screws! So with heavy heart I drilled over each screw with a hole saw and lifted the deck - to see that I could not reuse the teak or most of it anyway and that fresh water damage required repairs to half beams and the starboard beam shelf. All done I decided that TG would never survive another failed teak deck and so I used an excellent sapele marine grade plywood and then glassed the decks. For the joint twix gunn'le and deck I made the West fillet, epoxy microballoon filled mix which has performed brilliantly. For the deck/coachroof joint I used the old quadrant method bedded on a flexible mastic (can't now remember which one). Clearly that has failed starboard side. Of course with the sheer the fit of the quadrant isn't uniform throughout it's length and presumably time, flexing and water has found a weak point.

I am thinking I need to stay with the quadrant approach although someone has said why don't I use the West method against the coachroof. The glassed deck is painted (and glassed of course) so switching to Coelan is not an option.