Gland Packing Size

[chas]

A month or so back there was some good advice given on packing shaft seals. I have tried to find the thread with no success. It included a simple formula for dermining the size of the packing that should be used. Having spent an afternoon struggling to get the old packing out of my shaft seal, I think it was probably too big.

Could some knd soul enlighten me as to how to work out the right size? TIA.

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[pete]

We always measure the gap between the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box for the packing size and add the appropriate number of packings cutting each one at 45 degrees and staggering the joints it has always worked for us.

Pete

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[roger]

When my stuffing box started leaking badlly I bought a carbon seal at the Chandlers near YCMN marina in Dunkirk. It cost 90 quid and was easy to fit. I've had no trouble since and I've dispensed with the nasty job of filling and using the greaser as well. The only draw back I can see is that you must remember to flush the seal when the boat goes back in the water after drying out.

<hr width=100% size=1>Roger

 

[chas]

Sounds interesting - Could you fit it with the shaft in situ or did you have to take it out? Can you rememeber what it was called?

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[chas]

Thanks - in that case it was the right size that had been used before.

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[AndrewB]

It definitely should go in tight. It gets further compressed when the screw is tightened up. The old bottom ring particularly can be a fiddle to get out, usually ends in pieces.

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[roger]

I cant remember the maker of the seal but it does appear in the french catalogues.
The job of replacing a stuffing box was not difficult for my boat.
1. I doubt if an imperial shaft would fit so you must use the appropriate metric one. I have a 25 mm. shaft.
2. Theres always a risk that the shaft will fall right out so you would have to be careful if doing the job with the boat afloat.
3. If you chose to do the job afloat you should be prepared for a fairly large inflow of water between shaft and stern tube. I did the job ashore.
You have to be able to get the plain shaft out of the engine coupling and the shaft should be smooth as you have to slide a stainless disk down with internal "O" rings down it.
You have to remove the nut and packing from the packing box and have remaining a cylindrical boss (albeit with a screw thread) of suitable size. For my 25mm. shaft the boss dia. was (I think) 37 mm..
You next have to slide on the stainless disk and replace the shaft in its original position connected to the engine.
Next use the disk to compress the rubber bellows on the part holding the carbon thrust race to half its length and mark the position of the stainless disk on the shaft.
Here comes the worrying bit:- drill three small recesses in the shaft to fit the bolts on the stainless disk.
Clean up and emove swarf
Slide the disk into place and tighten up.
In reality its not difficult.
I seem to remember as I write this that the maker is "Stopelo"
Good luck.
Mine has worked perfectly this last season about 50 hours motoring.



<hr width=100% size=1>Roger

 

[chas]

Thank you - I will see if I can find them - but it sounds as if they might not cater for my good old imperial 1 in shaft!

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[roger]

Stopelo glands

I've found the reference in the Accastillage Diffusion Catalogue. see www.accstillage-diffusion.com
There are two types of "joint tounant. The one I have is by Stopelo - for 25 mm shaft its 118 Euros
The other is by France Helices and the price for 25 mm. shaft is 202 Euros
Regards - Roger

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[chas]

Re: Stopelo glands

I did a google search and found a site. They only had kits for metric shafts. I have emailed them to ask if they can cope with inches but have not heard yet.

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[roger]

Re: Stopelo glands

Chas - the only part of the kit that touches the shaft is the stainless steel disk (with two "o" rings inside). If you got the "o" rings out you could probably bore out the hole. From 25 to 35.4 mm. is no great deal and any competent engineer could do it very qyickly.

<hr width=100% size=1>Roger