Genoa track

[Foxy]

Im remounting my genoa tracks which are mounted with woodscrews into the sheer planks. Im considering replacing the actual tracks as I think the newer designs are probably easier to fit and seal. Basically my current set up is a flat track (schaefer) with a 'n' - shaped plastic spacer underneath. Its survived 35 years but looks like the new tracks are all one piece.
Three questions
first is do you think old 1 1/4" cars will fit on 32mm track (i can test if i can find some).
Second - any thoughts about the old two part track?
Third, who make the best track?
Boat is heavy long keel cruiser. head sail area 50sqm - like to over engineer if poss, looking at 32 mm track and 8mm screw fixing. W
ill try to bolt through anywhere i can access.

cheers in advance

Pat

 

[johnphilip]

Im remounting my genoa tracks which are mounted with woodscrews into the sheer planks. Im considering replacing the actual tracks as I think the newer designs are probably easier to fit and seal. Basically my current set up is a flat track (schaefer) with a 'n' - shaped plastic spacer underneath. Its survived 35 years but looks like the new tracks are all one piece.
Three questions
first is do you think old 1 1/4" cars will fit on 32mm track (i can test if i can find some).
Second - any thoughts about the old two part track?
Third, who make the best track?
Boat is heavy long keel cruiser. head sail area 50sqm - like to over engineer if poss, looking at 32 mm track and 8mm screw fixing. W
ill try to bolt through anywhere i can access.

cheers in advance

Pat

First thought when reading your question is towable cars. If you do have to replace the cars use it as an opportunity to fit rope adjustable cars, I never realised until we bought a boat with them what a difference it makes to setting the foresail if the sheeting angle is right. both facilitating a change when using a part furled sail and stopping the head curl around the forestay when sailing downwind. So much easier than the piston locking tracks ( and safer ). The new cars would have a block system to pull them forward but they will run aft on their own as load comes on the sheet. Yours may be a long keeled cruiser rather than a racer but I still recommend the upgrade.
As to manufacturer, ours came with Harken gear which has been faultless for 10 years. I know their component prices are gobsmacking but I have no knowledge of others.

 

[BabaYaga]

first is do you think old 1 1/4" cars will fit on 32mm track (i can test if i can find some).
Second - any thoughts about the old two part track?
Third, who make the best track?

If you want to keep the existing cars, be aware that manufacturers use different standards for 32mm T-tracks. On Bartons, the flat section is 5mm thick. On others, like Pfeiffer and Rutgerson and possibly Harken, the thickness is 6mm. Hole diameters for plungers may also vary.

 

[rob2]

New deck hardware make other things in life look cheap. I've always found that T track accumulates dirt and debris which jams the cars. The old track is quite possibly still serviceable, but made in two parts was cheaper before single part extrusions became the norm. If you are refurbishing, it would pay dividends to set up the track carefully centred and drill out the mounting holes on a pillar drill with a good fit on the screw shanks to ensure they centre correctly when fitted.

If money were no object, though, I'd be looking for tracks and cars which won't jam, with facility for towing. There are types with simple plastic inserts to reduce friction right up to full recirculating balll bearing systems. Everyone says you don't need a line to pull them aft, but I beg to differ as there can be a lot of friction once the sail is sheeted. It's time to go through as many catalogues and price lists as you can find, checking dimensions and prices till you find the compromise that suits your situation and wallet.

Rob.

 

[Foxy]

Thanks to all for feedback.
Read an indpteresting post by william h? (olewill) whilst searching this subject who was talking about twing type setups. Thats very interesting. Just trying to work out how I would make it match my setup.

Pat

 

[johnphilip]

Everyone says you don't need a line to pull them aft, but I beg to differ as there can be a lot of friction once the sail is sheeted.t.
Rob.

I would be amazed if with the "Towing Line " slack the cars do not travel aft as the sheet is pulled in, at worst you might have to slacken the jib sheet and re-tension to move the car back. Perhaps the old piston locking cars might be an issue but I would be dismayed if modern cars did not do this.

 

[William_H]

Maybe I am a tightwad but I would just stick with what you have. This especially if the cars fit the track.
Yes you do need to bolt the track down as far as possible due to large loads from the jib sheet.
Now it may be that you do not sail witha furled jib very much or change very often. In which case the plunger locked jib cars should be quite OK. However if you find you change the jib size often then yes towable cars would be a huge advantage. Certainly to have the jib car in the right position for the size and set of the jib is important. It is just a question of how often you change.
I confess though, I love racing my little boat, I still use plunger locked jib cars (and hank on jibs)
Occasionally we get the urge to adjust the jib car position while sialing. Not so easy on small boat and definitely a lot of friction with jib sheet loaded.
I would always advocate "use what you have and get out there and sail". Experience will tell you if you want to improve anything. good luck olewill