Genoa track cleats

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I'm very taken with the genoa track cleats mentioned in Burnham Bob's thread, which I'd not seen before but... I have Harken 32mm tracks and can only find Barton 32mm cleats in the UK.
The Harken track has 6mm thickness on the crossbar of the T and 10mm clearance beneath, Barton track has only 5mm T bar thickness with 10mm below.
Has anyone used this combination successfully or know if there is ≥ 1mm tolerance on the sliders - it wouldn't have to move freely as I would only adjust occasionally
Does anyone know of a sliding cleat make other than Barton in the UK?
I have a solid toerail so attaching cleats there is not an option (for me).
 
You always have the option of using the existing genoa car and moving it to amidships if possible then you can feed the line back to a cockpit winch I managed to buy a couple of spares from boat jumble so I have them permanently rigged they have also been useful for an occasional lazy sheet or if you get a riding turn on winch.
 
I have made a modification to the excellent Barton cleats so that they fit on Lewmar track, I am not familiar with Harken track so don't know if the same mod would do the trick.
 
Thanks, BY. Will look into the Pfeiffer option.
KE, bespoke cleats sound expensive. How do they compare, cost wise, to Barton at £70ea, if I might enquire?

parbuckle said:
You always have the option of using the existing genoa car and moving it to amidships if possible then you can feed the line back to a cockpit winch I managed to buy a couple of spares from boat jumble so I have them permanently rigged they have also been useful for an occasional lazy sheet or if you get a riding turn on winch.
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I'm looking to use them long term with springs, rather than just for coming alongside. As my cars are cast alloy I'm concerned they may fail under any shock loading.

Leighb said:
I have made a modification to the excellent Barton cleats so that they fit on Lewmar track, I am not familiar with Harken track so don't know if the same mod would do the trick.
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I saw your for sale thread but couldn't work out the mod from the picture. Did you just lever the sides of the sliding grip apart?
 
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The item I had for sale is different (Clamp on Cleat)and I found that it was useless on the Lewmar track. I bought a pair of the Slide on Cleats instead, and it was these that I had to modify to fit the Lewmar track.
 
>KE, bespoke cleats sound expensive. How do they compare, cost wise, to Barton at £70ea, if I might enquire?

Sorry but I can't remember what we paid but fabricators are normally cheaper than chandlers and often take cash. One example was I wanted two deck fittings to hold two poles horizontally, it cost £80 cash compared to the going rate of £170 plus VAT. I used a kitchen fabricator because they use 316 stainless and they are cheaper than marine fabricators, just as all marine products are, even electrical tape. Two other examples are we had an industrial water maker and fridge both were cheaper than boat ones and last much longer.
 
KellysEye said:
>KE, bespoke cleats sound expensive. How do they compare, cost wise, to Barton at £70ea, if I might enquire?

Sorry but I can't remember what we paid but fabricators are normally cheaper than chandlers and often take cash. One example was I wanted two deck fittings to hold two poles horizontally, it cost £80 cash compared to the going rate of £170 plus VAT. I used a kitchen fabricator because they use 316 stainless and they are cheaper than marine fabricators, just as all marine products are, even electrical tape. Two other examples are we had an industrial water maker and fridge both were cheaper than boat ones and last much longer.
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Thanks for that. I've gone for the Pfeiffer cleats (thanks, BabaYaga) which I'm told will fit and delivery from SVB in Germany is quick and cheap. Good tip on using kitchen fabricators - will certainly consider that option in future.
 
>Pfeiffer cleats

Since they are Aluminium they will need to be welded to an Aluminium plate with the knurled screw also Aluminium to fix it place. Most welders weld steel make sure you find one that can weld Aluminium it's a different skill. Make sure the screw has the paste that protects Aluminium otherwise there will be salt corrosion that will 'weld' them together. Personally I would have gone stainless to avoid corrosion issues.
 
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