Gate valve stuck shut, but handle turns freely.

CaptainBob

CaptainBob

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I know I should have ball valves, and i'll swap this to one on our next lift, but at the moment I'm in the water and my loo outlet gate valve is shut and as per title the handle (round control tap/handle thing) spins indefinitely in both directions.

It worked fine just before, I'd been in the process of replacing the loo at the time and just went to finally open it.

Two questions:

Any way to solve this in the water so I can open this seacock and use the loo?

As it's stuck shut and totally water/air tight (I cannot push the handle down on the pump out for the loo, and had to open it up to let the pressure out) do you think it's safe to leave it as-is, bung the pipe also for a double safety measure, and use my sink outlet for the time being for the loo?

We have three sinks aboard so can do without the "guest" sink.
 
I had the same problem once and IIRC the internal threads had corroded and wasted away to the extent that they didn't mesh anymore. I can't see how you can effect a repair or replacement whilst afloat.
 
CaptainBob said:
I know I should have ball valves, and i'll swap this to one on our next lift, but at the moment I'm in the water and my loo outlet gate valve is shut and as per title the handle (round control tap/handle thing) spins indefinitely in both directions.

It worked fine just before, I'd been in the process of replacing the loo at the time and just went to finally open it.

Two questions:

Any way to solve this in the water so I can open this seacock and use the loo?

As it's stuck shut and totally water/air tight (I cannot push the handle down on the pump out for the loo, and had to open it up to let the pressure out) do you think it's safe to leave it as-is, bung the pipe also for a double safety measure, and use my sink outlet for the time being for the loo?

We have three sinks aboard so can do without the "guest" sink.
Click to expand...

spindle thread stripped, they are normally brass
 
CaptainBob said:
I know I should have ball valves, and i'll swap this to one on our next lift, but at the moment I'm in the water and my loo outlet gate valve is shut and as per title the handle (round control tap/handle thing) spins indefinitely in both directions.
Click to expand...

If the shaft doesn't turn as well, use mole grips on it. Generally (but not always) the attachment of the handle to the shaft wears out.
 
I've changed seacocks whilst afloat, just have a bung handy and make sure the new one is in the open position whilst you get the threads started. If you're not sure about the condition of the skin fitting, don't do it.
 
New gate valves are inexpensive and very quick to change out (less than 5 minutes on my boat). I've changed out many without hauling out. As long as your bilge pump is operating, you should be fine. A spare bung would be a good insurance policy.
 
ghostlymoron said:
It's theoretically possible to change it afloat but I wouldn't do it unless essential. Can you dry out against a wall or piles?
Click to expand...

Hmmm. Yeah possibly actually. New, very heavy boat though, and we've only dried out against a wall once previously in a boat and it went a bit awry so not over keen.

We can make do without for now. I'll stick a bung in the hose and clip it up tight as a double-safety. And then sort it when we're next lifted out or dare to go against a wall.

Thanks again.
 
Yes but if i remember right that boat didn't have a long keel and long keels dry out very easily and safe...now what keel have you got now?
 
Im would bung it from outside. Wooden tapered plug wrapped in self amalgamating tape makes a good seal.. Then remove the valve from the skin fitting and replace. If you cant reach the outlet get yourself a wetsuit and googles.
 
Spyro said:
Im would bung it from outside. Wooden tapered plug wrapped in self amalgamating tape makes a good seal.. Then remove the valve from the skin fitting and replace. If you cant reach the outlet get yourself a wetsuit and googles.
Click to expand...

Good idea
also can you heal boat to bring outlet near surface?
 
You don't need to replace the whole valve, just the guts. If you can find the same valve, take the bonnet off (the part under the spinning handle), and the handle, stem and gate will come out, slap in the new one. Downside is that it may be hard to find an exact match, so you may have to replace the whole valve. If you do, then just put in a ball valve while you're there.
 
No problem changing the gate valve, while still in the water and it has almost certainly chewed the end of the threads off.

1. If it is an old valve, make sure that the size and threads of the new ball valve are the same.

2. Have a greased wooden bung to hand.

3. Make sure that the old valve is loose on the thread of the skin fitting and just begins to weep.

4. Bung in hand, whip the valve off and insert the bung, with a gentle tap.

5. Compare the threads of the old and new valves. Grease the new valve threads.

6. Remove the bung and swiftly place the new valve on the skin fitting threads.

7. Tighten and you are done. Last time I did this SWMBO asked what the downside to this opperation was. 'Oh. About 4.5 mtrs' says I. In fact we took about a cupful of water.

Good luck. :)
 
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