pauln
Well-Known Member
I'm looking for someone that can replace the flexible hoses on my yacht gas installation in the Ipswich area. Any suggestions.
Gas Fitters
- Thread starter pauln
- Start date
VicS
Well-Known Member
The corgi website has a facility to fit a fitter authourised to carry out that work
http://www.trustcorgi.com/about/aboutcorgi.htmx
http://www.trustcorgi.com/about/aboutcorgi.htmx
Chris_G
Well-Known Member
Will Hayward - I used him and got great service, fully corgi registered. PM me for his mobile #.
Chris
Chris
damo
Well-Known Member
Very easy to DIY - it's just a straight swap. Do you still need a corgi fitter if you aren't "installing" anything?
It's no different IMO to changing the gas bottle at the other end of the system [duck]
It's no different IMO to changing the gas bottle at the other end of the system [duck]
VicS
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Very easy to DIY
[/ QUOTE ] Perfectly true but although one of the hoses in question is probably in the gas locker where a tiny leak should not have any serious consequences the other is very probably the hose between the cooker and the fixed pipework in the cabin where a small leak could be serious.
I suspect very few DIYers will know the details of the two pressure tests that should be carried out after maintenance of the system or have the equipment, simple though it is, to carry out those tests.
As you are apparently suggesting to pauln that he replaces these hoses himself perhaps you should describe the pressure tests so that he can make up his own mind if they fall within his ability range.
What would I do? Change 'em myself, but i do know what the pressure tests entail.
Very easy to DIY
[/ QUOTE ] Perfectly true but although one of the hoses in question is probably in the gas locker where a tiny leak should not have any serious consequences the other is very probably the hose between the cooker and the fixed pipework in the cabin where a small leak could be serious.
I suspect very few DIYers will know the details of the two pressure tests that should be carried out after maintenance of the system or have the equipment, simple though it is, to carry out those tests.
As you are apparently suggesting to pauln that he replaces these hoses himself perhaps you should describe the pressure tests so that he can make up his own mind if they fall within his ability range.
What would I do? Change 'em myself, but i do know what the pressure tests entail.
misterg
Well-Known Member
Note that it is perfectly legal to carry out work on your own gas installation (at home, or on a boat) provided it is done competently. Sadly, the standards that define the correct practices are jealously guarded, and not in the public domain. It would be much better (IMHO) if they were easily available, so people could judge for themselves whether they were up to doing the work properly and/or were aware of what their 'experts' should be doing.
It is my understanding that the hoses must be secured with metal 'lemon' clips which are squeezed tight with the correct tool, rather than worm-drive clips, but you still see a lot of worm-drive clips installed, and they'll probably be for sale where you buy the hose.
The pressure tests, as posted elsewhere (not by be) - judge for yourselves if it is accurate, and if you are competent to carry them out. (B&Q sell gas manometers - not sure what the pressure range is, though):
[ QUOTE ]
LPG testing procedure
by xxxxxxxxxx on Sun Feb 19, 2006 10:05 pm
I have got a loan of the Corgi manual for testing LPG gas installations, and hope it is of interest.
I copy from the Corgi LPG for caravans and boats,
Page 98.
"The soundness testing procedure.
"U" gauge method.
(n.b. this is before any bottles, regulators, are fitted and connected - just "the pipework and appliances. - editor (me))
At the open point, (where the regulator would be fitted - as I have to interpret the diagrams) connect a test tee. (the test tee has two valves - tap A to a bike pump, and tap B to the "U" gauge, the third outlet is to the gas installation).
Attach the "U" gauge to one of the tube nozzles using a rubber tube connection and attach a bicycle pump or a similar inflating device to the other tube nozzle, (through a non-return valve).
(a) Turn on both taps (A and B).
(b) Introduce air into the installation pipework until the "U" gauge registers 70mbar.
(c) Turn off tap A (- to bike pump).
(d) Leave the system for 5 minutes to allow the temperature to stabilise.
(e) Note the reading on the "U" gauge.
(f) Turn off tap B (- to the "U" gauge).
(g) Leave for a further 5 minutes.
(h) Turn on tap B and again check the pressure reading on the "U" gauge.
(i) If the pressure reading has fallen, examine the whole of the installation to locate the leak(s).
Note: The method usually adopted is to restore the pressure in the system and check each joint by applying a non-corrosive leak detection fluid until the leaking joint(s) is discovered. Any defective joint(s) or fittings shoud be remade or replaced and the test procedure repeated. There should be no discernible pressure loss in the system."
page 101.
"Testing the complete installation.
(a)Turn off all appliance control taps including any pilot valves. Ensure that fold down lids on cooker hotplates are raised so that any safety shut off valves on the supply to the cooker hotplate taps are open, but control taps are shut. Isolate the LPG supply.
(b)Connect a "U" gauge to the test fitting, if present, or alternatively, to an in-line test tee.
(c)Open the main shut-off valve to achieve lock-up pressure, then close the valve.
(d)Light one appliance burner and allow the pressure to fall to 30mbar (Propane) or 20mbar (Butane).
(e)Turn off the appliance control tap and leave for 5 minutes. Record the pressure in the "U" gauge.
(f)Leave for a further 5 minutes, and re-record the pressure on the "U" gauge. There should be no discernible pressure drop in the system. (See Note).
(g)Release the pressure in the system by lighting an appliance burner. Disconnect the test fitting or test tee.
Note. If a pressure drop occurs, re-pressurise the system and test all joints with non-corrosive leak detection fluid. Repair any leaking fittings and repeat the soundness testing procedure. Test all joints made after the soundness test with non-corrosive leak detection fluid."
This is from the Corgi bible, and I hope it will be of interest and use.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have removed the original author's name. If it were me, I would check the new connections with leak detector fluid (available from RS) or dilute fairy liquid (but make sure to rinse it off), purge the system through, then do the 2nd of the tests & record same somewhere.
Andy
It is my understanding that the hoses must be secured with metal 'lemon' clips which are squeezed tight with the correct tool, rather than worm-drive clips, but you still see a lot of worm-drive clips installed, and they'll probably be for sale where you buy the hose.
The pressure tests, as posted elsewhere (not by be) - judge for yourselves if it is accurate, and if you are competent to carry them out. (B&Q sell gas manometers - not sure what the pressure range is, though):
[ QUOTE ]
LPG testing procedure
by xxxxxxxxxx on Sun Feb 19, 2006 10:05 pm
I have got a loan of the Corgi manual for testing LPG gas installations, and hope it is of interest.
I copy from the Corgi LPG for caravans and boats,
Page 98.
"The soundness testing procedure.
"U" gauge method.
(n.b. this is before any bottles, regulators, are fitted and connected - just "the pipework and appliances. - editor (me))
At the open point, (where the regulator would be fitted - as I have to interpret the diagrams) connect a test tee. (the test tee has two valves - tap A to a bike pump, and tap B to the "U" gauge, the third outlet is to the gas installation).
Attach the "U" gauge to one of the tube nozzles using a rubber tube connection and attach a bicycle pump or a similar inflating device to the other tube nozzle, (through a non-return valve).
(a) Turn on both taps (A and B).
(b) Introduce air into the installation pipework until the "U" gauge registers 70mbar.
(c) Turn off tap A (- to bike pump).
(d) Leave the system for 5 minutes to allow the temperature to stabilise.
(e) Note the reading on the "U" gauge.
(f) Turn off tap B (- to the "U" gauge).
(g) Leave for a further 5 minutes.
(h) Turn on tap B and again check the pressure reading on the "U" gauge.
(i) If the pressure reading has fallen, examine the whole of the installation to locate the leak(s).
Note: The method usually adopted is to restore the pressure in the system and check each joint by applying a non-corrosive leak detection fluid until the leaking joint(s) is discovered. Any defective joint(s) or fittings shoud be remade or replaced and the test procedure repeated. There should be no discernible pressure loss in the system."
page 101.
"Testing the complete installation.
(a)Turn off all appliance control taps including any pilot valves. Ensure that fold down lids on cooker hotplates are raised so that any safety shut off valves on the supply to the cooker hotplate taps are open, but control taps are shut. Isolate the LPG supply.
(b)Connect a "U" gauge to the test fitting, if present, or alternatively, to an in-line test tee.
(c)Open the main shut-off valve to achieve lock-up pressure, then close the valve.
(d)Light one appliance burner and allow the pressure to fall to 30mbar (Propane) or 20mbar (Butane).
(e)Turn off the appliance control tap and leave for 5 minutes. Record the pressure in the "U" gauge.
(f)Leave for a further 5 minutes, and re-record the pressure on the "U" gauge. There should be no discernible pressure drop in the system. (See Note).
(g)Release the pressure in the system by lighting an appliance burner. Disconnect the test fitting or test tee.
Note. If a pressure drop occurs, re-pressurise the system and test all joints with non-corrosive leak detection fluid. Repair any leaking fittings and repeat the soundness testing procedure. Test all joints made after the soundness test with non-corrosive leak detection fluid."
This is from the Corgi bible, and I hope it will be of interest and use.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have removed the original author's name. If it were me, I would check the new connections with leak detector fluid (available from RS) or dilute fairy liquid (but make sure to rinse it off), purge the system through, then do the 2nd of the tests & record same somewhere.
Andy
damo
Well-Known Member
I did post back earlier today - but it seems to have dropped out somewhere /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
The very first thing I did after taking possession of my boat was fit a bubble leak detector, which immediately showed that the flexi cooker hose was leaking (not picked up by the survey btw). I replaced that with a made up length to the correct spec and with factory fitted unions and hose clips. I don't see the point in paying someone £££ to undo and redo a single nut every time I want to clean behind the gimballed cooker.
If the OP is going to get a fitter in to replace his hose, could I suggest you fit a leak detector at the same time? It will add peace of mind, and save a lot of money the next time the cooker needs disconnecting /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
The very first thing I did after taking possession of my boat was fit a bubble leak detector, which immediately showed that the flexi cooker hose was leaking (not picked up by the survey btw). I replaced that with a made up length to the correct spec and with factory fitted unions and hose clips. I don't see the point in paying someone £££ to undo and redo a single nut every time I want to clean behind the gimballed cooker.
If the OP is going to get a fitter in to replace his hose, could I suggest you fit a leak detector at the same time? It will add peace of mind, and save a lot of money the next time the cooker needs disconnecting /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
