Gas connection to Plastimo cooker

whipper_snapper

whipper_snapper

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Prompted by the conversation in the lounge, I am now gathering the bits to re-do my gas 'installation'.

I will be ripping everything out and starting again. Cooker is a Plastimo can someone please remind me of the dimensions of the gas pipe join to the cooker ? Or is it just a hose bayonette ?

I was planning, gas in through bulkhead nozzle, copper pipe, tap, armoured flexiblepipe to cooker. I might as well avoid all the size adapters that have been features of every other system I have ever looked at but I can't find anywhere (even in the cooker instructions) the method of attachment to the cooker and the boat is a long way away.

Thanks
 
The pipe is 8mm diameter [that's the outside diameter].

My Plastimo cooker has a stub of 8mm steel pipe at the back, pointing downwards. I fitted a hosetail compression fitting to this stub because my cooker is gimballed.

I bought all the bits needed from BES Ltd [see their website] but you can also get most things from CalorMarine at Southampton [plus advice if you need it].
 
if you have 2 x burner + 1 x oven then 8 m/m hose / pipe.
there is some debate here about armoured hoses due to its not poss to se any "chafe" damage by insurers who seem to request these for some reason best known to themselves. i used ordenary gas hose for the flexi connection for many yrs without any probs as one can inspect the hose at will . what the hell goes on inside the ss braiding is anbodys guess
 
Make sure you have read Chapter 7 of the Boat Safety scheme HERE or via the Calormarine website.

When you are done you will find testing details HERE
Note that for the first test you need a "test tee", so order the tee piece and valves with the other bits and pieces.
You also need a test point so order that and incorporate it into your system.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Or just slide a hose over and clamp it

[/ QUOTE ] As sailorman says use a proper (Fulham) hose nozzle

BTW these two diagrams from PBO might be of interest (Click to view)

<span style="color:white"> ...... </span> <span style="color:white"> ................... </span>
 
Instead of ROFLing have you any idea why they are called Fulham nozzles?


Anyone? before Brendan surfaces this morning.
 
Thanks.


My setup could be almost exactly as your picture of a 'simple setup with flexible pipe from regulator to tap'.


That appeals to me as it will have fewer connections and be cheaper and easier.

It looks to me that I would need:
A few metres of orange pipe.
one 5/16" compression to nozzle on the cooker.
A nozzle-tap-nozzle assembly for shutoff inside the galley
A nozzle-bulkhead-nozzle to pass pipe through the bulkhead. Or is there some kind of gland that would do it with a continuous piece?

Does that make sense ?
 
[A nozzle-bulkhead-nozzle to pass pipe through the bulkhead. Or is there some kind of gland that would do it with a continuous piece?]

how about a hole with a larger than the o/all dia of the orange pipe + a grommet of clear hose & pass the orange pipe through the hole
 
A few metres of orange pipe........ If you mean rubber hose then I think 1 metre is the max ... See the BSS ! Use copper as you originally intended if longer, in fact it may turn out to be the more practical idea anyway

A nozzle-bulkhead-nozzle .... don't think such an object exists ... may be wrong though.

As far as bulk head fittings go if you are going through a bulkhead or partition where water-tightness does not have to be maintained it is only necessary to use a bulkhead fitting to avoid chafe eg through a metal bulkhead. Where you do need to use one consider boring out the "land" in the middle so that a continuous length of copper pipe can be passed through thus avoiding the joints that could be potential leaks. Only one of the compression fittings is needed as well, just to seal the thing to the pipe. That could be useful for leading a copper pipe out of a gas locker. or where access is difficult.

I don't know what you are doing with the HP side of things. A fixed regulator is probably better than a bottle mounted one, but if you are using Camping gas you then need an adaptor valve but they are quite inexpensive from BES. Camping Gas normally uses a bottle mounted regulator (with nozzle for a hose) but changing the bottle is a bit of a fiddle because you have to detach the hose from the regulator to do it.

I would go bottle (+ Adaptor valve if Camping gas), HP hose, fixed regulator, copper pipe (exiting the locker via bored though bulkhead fitting), Local tap, flexible hose to cooker.

Or bottle, bottle mounted regulator, LP hose to bulkhead fitting with Fulham nozzle, then copper to local valve.

Avoiding hoses wherever possible avoids changing them every 5 years but you are stuck with one in the gas locker, be it an hp one to a fixed regulator or an LP one from a bottle mounted regulator, and one to the cooker (if it is gimballed)
 
Thanks, I will go with that for the low pressure side. Just ordered bits, irritatingly I need a mix of calor and BES to get all the bits.

On the HP side, I will have to source everything locally as we need new local gas bottles and regs anyway. I will go with simple bottle mounted reg, LP pipe to nozzle on bulkhead. That is one reason I am twitchy about making the bulkhead seal gastight.

Thanks all for your help.
 
1) We also have Plastimo cooker (2 burner & grill in our case) with inlet nozzle on back pointing downwards. I was intending (one day) to replace the straight fitting which joins this to the flexible pipe with an right-angled one (if available), as the present arrangement means the flexible pipe fouls the horizontal surface under the cooker, restricting the extent of the swing of the cooker on its gimbals, and causing unnecessary flexing and wear on the flexible pipe.

2) Shocked to find myself disagreeing with Vic for the second time in a couple of weeks (well, ever!), but can't see that you need to remove bottle mounted Camping Gaz regulator from pipe to change bottles - at least I've never done it. I just turn the bottle rather than the regulator/ pipe to screw/unscrew them.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I just turn the bottle rather than the regulator

[/ QUOTE ] You would not be able to do it like that on my installation. The hose is not long enough and there is no spare space around the bottle in the locker to turn it while in there. Anyway I prefer to remove the bottle and regulator to the deck. Unscrew the regulator from one and fit it to the other then return to the locker and reconnect the hose. A screw on fitting rather than a hose pushed on to a Fulham nozzle would be nice.
My regulator is only made of an aluminium alloy. It would be all too easy to get the thread crossed in the bottle trying to support the bottle and turn it at the same time with one hand.
 
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