Fused.....

[LeonF]

A simple one please...the in line fuse to my galley water pump is the cylindrical glass type, but with a wide aluminium strip inside. I have been told that this is a quick blow fuse. I have some corrosion both inside the fuse and to the contacts, but have managed to get the pump going for the weekend with a lot of WD 40 and some sanding.. If it blows am I asking for trouble if I use a blade fuse or the glass type that have a wire inside rather than the ally strip ?? Thanks

 

[aztec]

if it's fusing due to a fault... repair the fault... that's always best.

if it's fusing due to peak loads which momentarily exceed the rating then try a slow blow fuse.. not sure about using one of a higher rating as this may overload the wiring ... then you'll have a bigger problem.

i'm sure that the likes of Maplins' do slow blow ones, but i've not bought any in years... so might be talking out of my bum.

hope it helps,

steve

 

[pvb]

No...

No, you're not asking for trouble. Remember that the fuse is only there to protect the wiring in the event of a fault. So the fuse rating should not exceed the theoretical current carrying capacity of the wire.

In-line fuses are prone to corrosion and should ideally be avoided. If the supply to your pump comes from a swich panel, it might already be fused appropriately - in which case you could dispense with the in-line fuse.

 

[misterg]

[ QUOTE ]
I have been told that this is a quick blow fuse.

[/ QUOTE ]

I suspect that it isn't a "slow blow" fuse, i.e. "normal". Look at the lettering engraved/stamped on the end cap. It should have a voltage (probably 250) and a current rating. If there is a letter "T" associated with the current rating, then it is a "slow blow" a.k.a. "time delay" fuse, otherwise it is a "normal" one. (Assuming it is a bog-standard glass fuse, not a semi-conductor jobbie, or something).

Always best to refer to handbook, labelling, etc. as someone may have replaced the fuse with something inappropriate in the past.

[ QUOTE ]
am I asking for trouble if I use a blade fuse or the glass type that have a wire inside rather than the ally strip ??

[/ QUOTE ]

If the letters on the ends match, then it is the "same".

What type of pump have you got? if it's just electromechanical then the fuse probably isn't critical, as long as it is the correct current rating (IMO).

If the fuse / holder is corroded, replace it. If there's any hint of a fault causing the fuse to blow, you need to find it before it gets you.


Andy

 

[William_H]

Fuse holders give a lot of trouble in marine environment. If it is one of those inline type with springs to put contact pressure on the ends of the fuse then it is no wonder it is giving trouble the style that clip from both sides of each end are better. You might even try soldering the wire direct to the end of the fuse. it is unlikely the fuse itself is faulty rather the contacts of the holder. As suggested the fuse in you panel may be all you need. olewill

 

[LeonF]

Thanks guys....Yes there is a fuse in the switch panel. The inline fuse is in a holder with springs. These are slightly rusty due to moisture ingress, down to me over hosing the compartment last year I think.
The pump is a simple Whale electro mechanical. The fuse hasn't blown yet, just some corrosion and powder inside. I just wanted to know if replacing the current fuse with a glass/wire one could cause problems, in case it blows over the weekend. The crew are softies and may moan about lack of water!!!