Further bleeding help please!!

[pcatterall]

Thanks for your help with my changing the sedimeter bowl. Success in the end and I ran the engine for 2 half hour stints.
Encouraged by this I though I would tackle the fine filter ( the one on the engine) I had some 'genuine perkins spares so I thought I'd give it ago.
I removed the old filter But noticed that the rubbers on the new spare did not fit the grooves in the ring of the casing ( too big) There was also a seal about 15mm diameter but no place for it in the casing set up.
As the actual filters look identical I decided to change the retaining the old seals I replaced all and after 100 pumps on the hand primer got fuel to flow. I am using the only bleed screw I can see this being the one that drains the return fuel ( hope this is right) Bled the air out there and tightened all up.
Ran the engine......10 seconds then cut out.
I removed all to check the sealing ...repeated and still no start.
I changed the filter back to the old one same result.
I guess it should only take a few seconds on thje button to get fuel from the filter into the engine. but there is nothing after 30seconds cranking.
Hope this is clear bit of a rush as this wifi keeps cutting out and I loose all
Any ideas please??

 

[pcatterall]

Well Ive just replied to my own thread as its 5am here in Montceau les mines and the night club is still in full swing.( and has been for 3 nights).

Please help me start the engine so I can escape.
I guess I will now have to bleed the high pressure side. This is a difficult process if I recall involving 4 steps, awkward nuts and the ( impossible I think) task of pumping the hand pump while bleeding inaccessible points.
( I have the manual and will follow it but will appreciate any tips or shortcut advice)

Is there an adapter which I can use with the CAV head in the photo which would make future filter changes less difficult. If So where can I source one.
There is no seperate bleed screw on my filter, am I right to use the return connector nut for bleeding?

Is an electric fuel pump available to bypass the manual one ( or to use as well as)? I can see this being a great boon for the bleeding task. Again pointers to a source would be great.
Many thanks

 

[cliff]

If the primary filter is gravity fed (Diesel tank above level of filter) slaken off the outlet fitting on the filter housing - the one that goes to the lift pump - and open the fuel cock on the tank.

Secondary (fine) filter on the engine will be down stream of the lift pump and should have a bleed screw on it - failng that slacken the outlet pipe union and manually operate the lift pump making sure the crankshaft is in the proper location to allow the cam driven lift pump to operate.

Finally, crack the injector pipe unions (one at a time) on each injector while cranking the engine over.

Third stage should not be needed unless you have allowed air into the injection pump - bleeding the two filters is normally enough (99.9% of the time)

 

[Tugw]

you may need to bleed to the injector inlet, loosen the pipes going into the injector and turn the engine,once you see the fuel at the injector end tighten it while the engine is still cranking(if poss),there will also be some bleed screws on the injection pump,depending on you engine you can bleed these with the lift pump and/or cranking, if your lucky and youve got it right the engine may start while you still tightening the injector lines
(not something that bothers me-a bit of diesel never hurt), bleed the injection pump first,then the injector lines.


Good Luck

 

[pcatterall]

Thanks guys, will get to it right away. Interesting that cliff suggests going straight to the injectors rather than the series of points on the pump etc as per the manual.
Is it possible that with the injector connections open then air may be expunged from the whole 'high pressure side'
I am still concerned about my bleeding of the engine ( fine) filter. I am having to use the return pipe connector as there is no bleed valve. Air stops flowing but as I tighten the connecter down air seems to re appear, I think this is just fuel picking up air from the threads around the connector but it does concern me.

 

[Tugw]

Thanks guys, will get to it right away. Interesting that cliff suggests going straight to the injectors rather than the series of points on the pump etc as per the manual.
Is it possible that with the injector connections open then air may be expunged from the whole 'high pressure side'


Very unlikely, The gallery inside the injection pump will have an "air trap" and will not allow the injection pump to pressurise, it will just keep squashing the air.The sequence of bleeding is, Filters,Injection pump, Injector pipes.

 

[pcatterall]

Thanks for that.
I have been inspecting and identifying the suggested bleed points..... mirror, torch, while sitting on the engine. It looked impossible, especially the one on the top of the governer.
However from the top an changing position it now looks feasible, I will take photos for what they are worth!
The manual suggests 3 bleed points together.... The filter; the vent on the hydraulic head locking screw (on the side of the pump body) and the one on top of the governor housing. Do I have to do them all at once? or can I just do them in order?
The next point was the pipe union at the injection pump inlet done on its own.
Finally all 4 unions at the injectors.
Guess I'd better make a start then ( pun not intended but perhaps a good omen!!?)
Thanks again

 

[pcatterall]

Thanks guys for your help. Engine running fine now. I have a bowl under the filter that I had the problem with just in case there is a leak there. I hope she starts tomorrow ( the acid test) but even if she doesnt I know that the filter is the proble cause and I now know the process to bleed the high pressure side, which spanners are best and how to get at the bleed points.
Incidently I could not get the point at the injection pump inlet to bleed so i went straight to the injectors which bled ok.

Must get...... a bloody magnet to retrieve the droppped spanners ( 3 before I tied them on!! A solution to the filter changing system perhaps just an adapter kit from ASAP which bolts exactly in place of the existing CAV filter.

Thanks all again, the advice is welcome and the knowledge that it is at hand is a big comfort!!