Furlex Vs Facnor

jakeroyd

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We need a new furler on our boat (a Moody 27) if the current Colnebrook furler does not come apart for re-rigging. We could choose many makes of furler but really need to choose between Facnor or Furlex. I know Facnor are cheaper and Furlex generally held up to be one of the best. Having said this the boat is used mainly for coastal cruising with maybe a cross channel run in the back of our minds , no racing , so trim is not paramount above everything. However we want it to be durable over many seasons.
What do respondents think of the costs and benfits of the two makes ?
 
Last boat had Facnor, which was fine.

Current boat has Furlex, which is fine. However the drum at the bottom is free to "lag" behind the foil by just less than a full turn. This means that the middle of the sail is tightened first, reducing the need for a foam padded luff.

It might be that the most modern Facnor also does this.
 
The Furlex 200 series is a complete POS.

I have had 2 fail in 2 years, with exactly the same faults. Both fitted by pro riggers, one was Selden USA's favorite rigger, who replaced the original unit under guarantee.

By all means buy one if you like having to dismantle and unjam the lower unit at sea; or go up the rig to drop the sail because the foil sections have parted.

How many Vendee/Around Alone boats have a Furlex?
 
We have a Furlex 300 and I can't speak highly enough about it. I fitted it myself and struggled with the measurements for the forestay at first. (Even the local rigger said he usually ignored the instructions at this point!)

However, now its up and fitted, we have no problems at all. Don't understand the proint about the Vendee boats. Lots of round the world boats have Furlex. One of the reasons we decided on Furlex was because they have a good world wide support base.

Most furlers work fairly well when new. I suppose the real proof will be in a few years time.
 
No experience of Facnor but fitted a Furlex 108S last summer.

Absolute nightmare for this amateur. Two pages of tables to ascertain forestay length and extrusion lengths and very intolerant of minor measurement errors(I remain suspicious of one or more of the fixed length deductions as I still ended up with a problem).
A disadvantageous element is that the whoe extrusion must first be fitted to the forestay before installation, as it is the topmost extrusion section which is cut to length and so, following the manufacturers instructions you will have already cut the forestay but only after passing it through the extrusion as otherwise it is virtually impossible for it to pass through the sections.
It is not possible to cut the forestay to length first and trim the extrusion appropriately a significant design problem, I think.
You must commit to cutting the extrusion first,slide the forestay through and cut that to the length you have measured.

I shall have to do mine again this winter as the forestay is too long even after triple checking measurements and I anticipate it will cost me another new forestay (£108).

Personally I would not attempt another one willingly with this type of installation procedure
 
The point about the Vendee boats and Furlex is that none of them use such an appalling bit of kit. I understand that the favoured makes are Facnor, Profurl and the odd Harken.

The design flaws on the 200 Furlex are as follows:

The entire torque load from the drum is transfered to the foil by a small piece of plastic and 2 machine screws. The slack fit of the machine screws into the foil means that the foil "wobbles" and the locating holes get enlarged over time. This problem is excacerbated by the absence of Duralac between the dissimilar metals.

These machine screws must be set on loctite and taped over. If not, they will work loose and be lost overboard. When this happens the foil slides down the forestay and jams in the lower bearing and will not turn. Believe me, it happened 750 miles out from Grand Canaria. Not fun, having to disassemble the lower bearings etc at sea.

The other main problem is if it is built using English instructions you will end up with a small gap between the jointing sections at the top of the foil. This has the effect of allowing the foil to part and making it impossible to lower the sail without going aloft and undoing the snapshackles.

The feeder has a habit of nearly falling out and the pre-feeder just doesn't work.

I am currently looking for a new boat and amongst the critera is the minimum of Swedish engineering. No Volvo engines and no Selden rigs.
 
There speaks bitter experience

though I wouldn't uniformly slate Swedish engineering - I'd agree wholeheartedly about the two specified.
To add insult to injury their prices are otherworldly.

If in the UK why not look at one of the Brit suppliers, at least if anything doesn't perform you can duff 'em up in person.

OF course if you use the recommendation for your boat you'll probably be close to safe working limit - a 300 might have been more reliable than a 200.
 
Thanks for the info on the Furlex problems.
There is another problem. I had a 200 fitted 3 years ago and thought is was great until the clamp screws holding the fixed part of drum became slack. This allowed the whole drum to rotate around the stay and tangled up the furling line inside. Couldnt move the part furled sail or drop it. Had to take off the outer cover to untangle the ridden turns with the sail flogging.
 
Thanks everybody for a lively debate. I should add I have heard that the latest 'Plastimo' is Ok having been improved from the ones a few years ago which were a bit iffy
 
[ QUOTE ]

I am currently looking for a new boat and amongst the critera is the minimum of Swedish engineering. No Volvo engines and no Selden rigs.

[/ QUOTE ]

Have come to the same conclusion.

Given this, it surprises me that people speak so highly of HR, Najad, Malo, etc...
The one HR36 I sailed left me very "underwhelmed". It sailed like a lorry/tank.
 
The point about the Vendee boats and Furlex is that none of them use such an appalling bit of kit. I understand that the favoured makes are Facnor, Profurl and the odd Harken.

The design flaws on the 200 Furlex are as follows:

The entire torque load from the drum is transfered to the foil by a small piece of plastic and 2 machine screws. The slack fit of the machine screws into the foil means that the foil "wobbles" and the locating holes get enlarged over time. This problem is excacerbated by the absence of Duralac between the dissimilar metals.

These machine screws must be set on loctite and taped over. If not, they will work loose and be lost overboard. When this happens the foil slides down the forestay and jams in the lower bearing and will not turn. Believe me, it happened 750 miles out from Grand Canaria. Not fun, having to disassemble the lower bearings etc at sea.

The other main problem is if it is built using English instructions you will end up with a small gap between the jointing sections at the top of the foil. This has the effect of allowing the foil to part and making it impossible to lower the sail without going aloft and undoing the snapshackles.

The feeder has a habit of nearly falling out and the pre-feeder just doesn't work.

I am currently looking for a new boat and amongst the critera is the minimum of Swedish engineering. No Volvo engines and no Selden rigs.

Reviving another ancient thread, does this apply for the recent models? Looking at the 204s at the moment.
 
We have a 90’s Furlex still going strong. Done many thousands of miles trouble free. Only had to clean grease out of bearings as it had gone hard. Wrong grease as some point.
We have a new Profurl on the inner forestay. Comes with a 10 year warranty. No experience of Facnor but I understand they are owned by Wichard that also owns Profurl. New Facnor kit, I am told is the budget range
 
I still own the same Facnor system I owned in 2006. This year I am replacing the upper swivel due to advanced wear but that is the only replacement since new in 2003.

Now on 3rd Facnor 165 top swivel and 2nd complete drum on 2005 launched boat. Keep contemplating junking it and getting Furlex. Current Facnor top swivel fitted last summer a "new design" - new design seems to be lots of thick grease inside: forget spinning it, quite hard to turn by hand straight out of the box with no load.

Facnor (and local riggers) insist 165s have sealed for life bearings that can't be replaced. I'm sure somebody could, but it's well beyond my ordinary toolkit and reasonable general DIY competence.
 
Had Facnor on my new 2003 boat. Still there & working Ok although getting a bit stiff in last 12 months if I do not slacken halyard a bit. Mast is currently down but all seems O.K. Gets a fair hammering & I sail 2000 miles per year but as it is on a self tacking jib I never sail with the jib part furled, until well into F8 then I might sometimes furl it all in.
 
Thanks for the info on the Furlex problems.
There is another problem. I had a 200 fitted 3 years ago and thought is was great until the clamp screws holding the fixed part of drum became slack. This allowed the whole drum to rotate around the stay and tangled up the furling line inside. Couldnt move the part furled sail or drop it. Had to take off the outer cover to untangle the ridden turns with the sail flogging.

Had exactly the same issue with mine, made even worse as my furler is under the deck and a right pain to work on. Previous boats had Facnor which whilst not being as nice looking did the job without any issues.

Now I have been reminded must check the clamp screws again.
 

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