Fuel Guard - answer to diesel contamination? Experience anyone?

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Pavalijo

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Just returned from SIBS. Lot of interesting stuff, but tucked in a corner was this -
www.fuel-guard.co.uk

Losing the engine through blocked filter is something that worries me and have been reading about the subject. After buying the boat last year I started treating the tank this year and was heading towards twin Racor set up until I saw this demonstrated today. Some sort of cleanable/reuseable filter which drops water, diesel bug and other c&@p into bottom of see through bowl with draw off tap. Sits between lift pump and filter. Effectively polishes the fuel if I understand the term correctly. Leaflet shows recirculating diesel with 12v pump when engine off to act as fuel polishing system, but if thread I read recently is correct, there is so much fuel returned to the tank when the engine is running that I don't understand why that would be necessary.

Cost for me (40hp) was around £200 less boat show discount £25. Was nearly sold until the guy said he was going to Scottish Boat Show at my marina next month with same discount.

Before I commit to this has anyone experience or thoughts?

No connection, never met the guy or heard of this before today.

Awaiting comments with interest.
Paul
 
Pavalijo said:
....... Leaflet shows recirculating diesel with 12v pump when engine off to act as fuel polishing system, but if thread I read recently is correct, there is so much fuel returned to the tank when the engine is running that I don't understand why that would be necessary.
Click to expand...

I agree. I cannot see a convincing argument to spend that much money on such a product. If your engine is fitted with a return to tank spill then I think the fuel is sufficiently polished during engine running.

It is not unusual to have 2 filters - or one water trap and one filter. That is what was originally fitted to my last two yachts and I have had no problems with blocked filters.

It is wise to use a diesel additive to help prevent the bug and if you feel it necessary fit two filters in parallel with a changeover tap in the unlikely case you have a filter blockage.
 
The 'diesel bug' lives in the water and the diesel interface and gets deposited as slime on the inside of the tank. In rough weather it can come detached from the tank side and also gets mixed around in the water and diesel and can actually block the intake tube.

The best way IMO to prevent filters and intake tubes from getting blocked is to keep the tank clean and free of water.

My current fuel tanks have no baffles and have an inspection hatch in the top. It is very easy once a year to empty the tank and clean the inside of the tanks.

My previous yacht had an 80 gal diesel tank in the bilge and a 12 gal day tank that could be filled with filtered fuel from the main tank. In fact I could direct the fuel from either tank into the other or the engine ..... and through two Racors connected in parallel. I had a vacuum gauge on the Racors to give me advanced warning of a clogging filter ... and also saved a huge amount of money in replacing the filters when they were still okay.
BUT the best defence was installing an inspection hatch over the intake in the tank so I could clean the main tank, and most importantly a sampler tube that sucks from the lowest part of the tank ..... just keep sucking the fuel, dirt, and/or water out until it is clean.

I do not used fuel additives and I never have a problem with this set up.

I learnt through experience as fuel blocks always seem to occur at the least convenient moment : going through entrances and in rough weather.
 
The engine off polishing idea was just an added possibility. The main benefit is getting rid of water, bug and muck whilst the engine is running and stopping that from clogging up the main filter. Preventing condensation and treating the fuel is the obvious starting point, but for us less mechanically competent this product would seem to have obvious benefits, especially when we live 4 hours from the boat. Would love to spend odd days and evenings fettling!

If I understand correctly (having not yet done the diesel maintenance course) fuel in the main filter glass bowl has already gone through the filter and so whilst that looks clean the filter itself could be on the verge of clogging up completely. This new pre filter will presumably extend the life of the main filter, give clear indication that there is a problem, act as a fuel polishing system (with the engine running so no need to run with a 12v motor unless you really have a big problem to start with) and does this without the need to buy replacement filters (just wash in clean diesel).

The guy on the stand suggested a setup with valves either side of the product that would allow you to drain the bowl, wash the filter and then bleed it without stopping the engine as the normal filter would still be operating. I guess in a rough sea I wouldn't fancy washing the filter element so would carry a spare.

From what I had read I was going the Racor route but this sounds preferable. I have no connection, just trying to see if someone with more diesel maintenance knowledge than I can advise. Apparently this was first developed for diggers/heavy plant and a customer with a boat set them down the marine route - wonder if there is a digger forum to search?!!!

Am having a second day at SIBS today so going to have another look and find out how much the spare element would be, but won't be buying until Scottish Boat Show at Kip where my engineer is usually present and I can get him to look at it.
 
+1 for keeping your fuel dry, clean and hence bug free. We pay enough for our fuel as it is, so I prefer not to add chemicals unless needed as a first aid where bug has become a problem.

I have a home made polishing filter unit with its own circulating pump, and have installed instant connectors to the tank drains, pick up lines before the racors, and at the cross connection on the spill return.

With my set up I can polish to or from either tank back to either tank, Backflush the pickup tube, drawdown the racor for changing the element, then afterwards prime it, and flush through to the fine filters. This set up cost around £200, but I have the advantage of being an engineer capable of obtaining the numerous fittings and installing it all.

So this unit seems ideeal for those who are not or prefer to employ others for the mucky tasks, and the price seems pretty good. I am at SIBS next Saturday so will have a closer look.

Where is the stand ?
 
Thanks, will be interested to hear from you again when you have visited.

Don't have a show guide but it is in the big hall nearest the Sunseeker end. He appears to be hosted on a larger stand - at the end of the hall furthest from the marina. The display is quite small but you will see red diesel in a few bowls!

Paul
 
One of the best ways of keeping the fuel in the tank clean and free from water, is for the tank to be made with a small dirt sump, fitted with a drain valve. This means that all the time, even at anchor, any slight motion of the boat encourages any dirt or water, to gravitate into the sump. For my own peace of mind, I generally check my dirt sump(s), the day after any rough passage. I am lucky, in that my tanks are made with sumps, and I appreciate that many of the more modern shallow hulled designs have broad shallow tanks, with no possibility of having sumps. In these cases, it is all the more vital that there is an inspection hatch, to allow the tank to be regularly checked and cleaned.
 
superheat6k said:
...............so I prefer not to add chemicals unless needed as a first aid where bug has become a problem.
Click to expand...

The concept of a fuel additive is to PREVENT although cure is an alternative.

By cleaning the fuel system and then using an additive each time you fill the tank it is extremely unlikely you will get a bug.

The most commom cause of the bug is water in the diesel and it remaining in the tank for long periods. People who use lots of fuel rarely get the bug. Road vehicles are a good example. People who sail their boats and rarely use their engine and then for only short periods are most vulnerable.

Road diesel content has changed in recent years (low sulphur and bio). These changes are now happening in red diesel and that is why the bug is becoming more common.
 
>Losing the engine through blocked filter is something that worries me

What I did was fit two filters in parallel with on/off switches. Filters were Racor that have a clear bowl at the bottom so you can see water and dirt and drain it. They also have a pump on top to prime the filter, obviously unscrew the bleed crew on the engine. That's the setup Mobos have. I also added the anti diesel bug additive to the tank. If you do all that you don't need anything else.
 
Pavalijo said:
Just returned from SIBS. Lot of interesting stuff, but tucked in a corner was this -
www.fuel-guard.co.uk

Losing the engine through blocked filter is something that worries me and have been reading about the subject. After buying the boat last year I started treating the tank this year and was heading towards twin Racor set up until I saw this demonstrated today. Some sort of cleanable/reuseable filter which drops water, diesel bug and other c&@p into bottom of see through bowl with draw off tap.
Click to expand...

I think this would be a waste of £200. According to the website, its main feature is to remove water from fuel. You can do this by using a £20 filter funnel when you refuel.

If you're unlucky enough to get diesel bug growing in your tank, it will produce a sticky residue which can ultimately block fuel filters. The Fuel Guard has a filter with a very small surface area - far smaller than conventional fuel filter cartridges - so I'd imagine it could get blocked fairly quickly.

If you're concerned about fuel bug blocking your filter and stopping the engine, by far the best solution is to have twin filters.
 
Pavalijo said:
Just returned from SIBS. Lot of interesting stuff, but tucked in a corner was this -
www.fuel-guard.co.uk

Losing the engine through blocked filter is something that worries me and have been reading about the subject. After buying the boat last year I started treating the tank this year and was heading towards twin Racor set up until I saw this demonstrated today. Some sort of cleanable/reuseable filter which drops water, diesel bug and other c&@p into bottom of see through bowl with draw off tap. Sits between lift pump and filter. Effectively polishes the fuel if I understand the term correctly. Leaflet shows recirculating diesel with 12v pump when engine off to act as fuel polishing system, but if thread I read recently is correct, there is so much fuel returned to the tank when the engine is running that I don't understand why that would be necessary.

Cost for me (40hp) was around £200 less boat show discount £25. Was nearly sold until the guy said he was going to Scottish Boat Show at my marina next month with same discount.

Before I commit to this has anyone experience or thoughts?

No connection, never met the guy or heard of this before today.

Awaiting comments with interest.
Paul
Click to expand...

Following an embarrasing engine stoppage due to blocked filters following filling up with fuel which was contaminated, I built myelf a fuel pollishing system, never had a moments concern since. I do use a proprietory brand of additive as well.
 
pvb said:
I think this would be a waste of £200. According to the website, its main feature is to remove water from fuel. You can do this by using a £20 filter funnel when you refuel.

If you're unlucky enough to get diesel bug growing in your tank, it will produce a sticky residue which can ultimately block fuel filters. The Fuel Guard has a filter with a very small surface area - far smaller than conventional fuel filter cartridges - so I'd imagine it could get blocked fairly quickly.

If you're concerned about fuel bug blocking your filter and stopping the engine, by far the best solution is to have twin filters.
Click to expand...

Just returned from second day at show. The Fuel Guard filter does remove solid particles. To answer my own earlier query, a spare filter is £35. The filter does not need to be replaced, just cleaned so that saves cost down the line - and reduces frequency of changing g the existing filter.

Would be interested in further views so can make better informed decision at Scottish show next month
Paul
 
Pavalijo said:
Just returned from second day at show. The Fuel Guard filter does remove solid particles. To answer my own earlier query, a spare filter is £35. The filter does not need to be replaced, just cleaned so that saves cost down the line - and reduces frequency of changing g the existing filter.
Click to expand...

I didn't dispute the fact that it removes solid particles. But I did point out that diesel bug - the stuff you're worried about - produces a slimy, sticky residue which will stick to the Fuel Guard's very small filter area and could conceivably block it quite rapidly. In contrast, ordinary cartridge filters present a very large surface area of filtration media, which can tolerate quite a lot of bug residue before blocking.
 
pvb said:
I In contrast, ordinary cartridge filters present a very large surface area of filtration media, which can tolerate quite a lot of bug residue before blocking.
Click to expand...

Indeed, this filter was working quite satisfactory hoovering up the muck out of my fuel tank with a polishing system.

CavFilter_zps197b000e.jpg
 
pvb said:
I think this would be a waste of £200. According to the website, its main feature is to remove water from u. You can do this by using a £20 filter funnel when you refuel.
....
Click to expand...

Could you explain what the £20 filter funnel is please ?
Have googled and found a Racor one (black & yellow) is that it ?

If so, is it worth using with a fresh marina supply or just from your own jerrycans ?
If worth using at the fuel berth does it slow down the flow a lot ?
(having once kept Princess Anne waiting to go on our fuel berth I am aware of how long we stay on there !).
Thanks - lots of questions there !
Paul
 
pvb said:
I didn't dispute the fact that it removes solid particles. But I did point out that diesel bug - the stuff you're worried about - produces a slimy, sticky residue which will stick to the Fuel Guard's very small filter area and could conceivably block it quite rapidly. In contrast, ordinary cartridge filters present a very large surface area of filtration media, which can tolerate quite a lot of bug residue before blocking.
Click to expand...

Fair point - the filter area does look relatively small. If you have a major problem then maybe the filter would block, but it is cleaned easily and presumably after it has been in use a while the fuel in the tank should be improved.

A recent thread seemed to suggest that 7 or 8 times as much fuel as is burned is returned to the tank. That means that if I burn 3/4 gallon per hour (just guessing, haven't worked it out yet) then there is around 4 gallons per hour returned to the tank, and so the whole of my 40gallon capacity will be pass through in 10 hours (appreciate that it would be much longer than that before the entirety of any contamination would be removed).

Whilst filter clogging is a concern with a small filter surface area, if I take appropriate precautions then I will only have a small problem at worst. What I would then be adding is peace of mind and a way of monitoring the state of the fuel. I did start this by saying that the fuel in the glass bowl of the filter is that which has passed through the filter, so doesn't tell me much.

I'm sure that the engineers among you will have better solutions, but remember I have no practical experience.

I did manage to find a diesel maintenance course using my model of engine at the show so will be enrolling on that shortly.

Many thanks for interesting responses,
Paul
 
In my experience the risk of contaminated fuel from the fuel station is not an issue. Water enters the tank from condensation from the air in the tank .... the tank being vented, from refuelling in wet conditions, from bad seals on filler caps, and the worst: contaminated fuel in jerry cans (always leave a little fuel in the jerry can and inspect it before filling). The Baja filter and a lot of the other funnel filters have two major problems: they slow down the fill which is not acceptable at a busy fuel dock, and there is always some fuel retained in the filter that needs cleaning out.

Some fuel additive contain alcohol which allows the water to be absorbed in the diesel. I don't think this is a good idea.

Even after cleaning the diesel tank, the contaminated fuel can be put on the side to settle, and the clear good fuel on the top can be used.
 
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