Fuel filter location

Formaldehyde

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Reading recent posts regarding fuel filters prompted me to start think about my own.
The current filter location is above the engine and fuel tank in a separate compartment which makes it very accessible, but not easy to bleed.
I would like to fit a dual filter switchable system, but there is no space in the present location for a second filter and associated shutoffs etc, but there is plenty of accessible space in the engine compartment behind the engine, but in this case, the filters would be on the lowest part of the fuel run.
Does anyone foresee any problems with this position?
Any advice regarding best dual filter setup and best shutoffs to use?
Thanks
 

pappaecho

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The lowest point in fuel run will make it very easy to bleed as you are not sucking uphill so to speak, as it will be gravity feed to the filter.
I assume you have a manual lever on the lift pump to draw the fuel from the filter into the lift pump and then onto the injector pump. Fitting an expensive hot swap type filter system with two filters is good if you are not happy with bleeding the system.. once it is done, that should be it once the new system is fitted and bled. If your fuel tank has not got a shutoff valve, then I would fit one in line, of the 90 degree handle type, rather than a wheelhead valve, which is overkill in what is a mere isolating valve used in emergencies
 

Caer Urfa

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Reading recent posts regarding fuel filters Any advice regarding best dual filter setup and best shutoffs to use?
Thanks

Hi
I did very similar to what you are saying two years ago,as you will see from pictures below I have twin tanks, EACH tank has it's own shut off valve to the primary fuel filter, BOTH filters feed into a diverter valve, I can run off either of the tanks or both tanks, I can switch tanks underway (if any filter problems).

On the return fuel goes through a secondry filter and then can return to either tank or both tanks.

As already said having the filters very low is good they are gravity fed making bleeding easy, BUT I also recommend keep you fuel pipe as short and straight as possible from the diverter valve to the pump.

To change the filters I find it's quicker to just remove the whole filter unit and you can make sure the seals fit ok before replacing the whole thing back.

Hope this might help
Mike

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Watson47

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Caer Urfa .. top post - excellent pictures. I am currently planning a genset installation & info very useful. Are the two valves under the labels those controlling your twin tanks .. ? It would be great if you had a further photo of these & labels in closer detail.

I have a similar arrangement for my main fuel tanks, with valves to allow either tank, or both to fuel either, or both engines. I have two of these twin filters as well, which are excellent in that a simple flick of the lever changes to a new filter and allows the other to be replaced while engine continues running.
 

Caer Urfa

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Caer Urfa .. top post - excellent pictures. I am currently planning a genset installation & info very useful. Are the two valves under the labels those controlling your twin tanks .. ? It would be great if you had a further photo of these & labels in closer detail.

Hi Watson 47
Nice old Watson Class 47 lifeboat you have there!
Attach label pictures as requested, you can get them made at most places that do shoe repairs as many also do etching signs.

My signs are about 50mm x 15mm with a simple peal off and stick on back, paid £12.oo for 3 signs.
Hope this helps
Mike

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Formaldehyde

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Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the useful information and excellent photographs.
Does anyone know if there is a modern equivalent to the switch-over filter that Watson 47 has - it would be a very neat solution, but would prefer ones with sight-glass and drain?
 

westhinder

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Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the useful information and excellent photographs.
Does anyone know if there is a modern equivalent to the switch-over filter that Watson 47 has - it would be a very neat solution, but would prefer ones with sight-glass and drain?

Racor have a number of double filter sets with translucent bowls
 

prv

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Do you happen to know if they have translucent bowls for the 110A?

If not, it's fairly easy to mount a couple of single-filter units side by side and add suitable plumbing to make a changeover unit. I posted pictures of mine a couple of months ago (CBA to search right now :) )

Pete
 

Ex-SolentBoy

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If not, it's fairly easy to mount a couple of single-filter units side by side and add suitable plumbing to make a changeover unit. I posted pictures of mine a couple of months ago (CBA to search right now :) )

Pete

That's exactly what I have- see the posts above.

I would just like to have see through bowls instead on both of the filters.
 

prv

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That's exactly what I have- see the posts above.

I would just like to have see through bowls instead on both of the filters.

Ah, ok. Must admit I didn't look up "110A" and assumed it was one of the one-piece changeover units being discussed.

My filter cartridges are the screw-on rather than drop-in type, and have clear plastic bottoms.

Pete
 

Ex-SolentBoy

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Ah, ok. Must admit I didn't look up "110A" and assumed it was one of the one-piece changeover units being discussed.

My filter cartridges are the screw-on rather than drop-in type, and have clear plastic bottoms.

Pete

Understand. Its stupid really. I end up unscrewing the bowl to check the filter. It turns out to be perfectly clean. I change the element anyway, as it is open now and I still have to bleed the fuel.

Lot of fuss when I could just glance at a clear bowl instead.
 

prv

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Understand. Its stupid really. I end up unscrewing the bowl to check the filter. It turns out to be perfectly clean.

Perhaps fit one of those vacuum gauges on the engine side of the filter? Shows how hard it's having to suck and hence how blocked the filter is. If I'd known about them when I built the new fuel system, I would have fitted one.

Pete
 

Watson47

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