Frost Damage???

D

dignity

Well-Known Member
Joined
28 Nov 2002
Messages
190
Location
Yorkshire, England
Visit site
Just brought my new boat up from Southwales on Monday, there's plenty of Anti-freeze in the fresh water side, but I didn't get chance to run Anti-freeze through the raw water side, the saving grace is that the engine is shoe-horned in, and surround by acres of sound insulation. How cold would it have to get before frost damage occurred, as I am now starting to panic!!!!!

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
anything sustained below freezing, so if the baot is out in the open and everything is as cold as the air an overnight hard frost could cause you problem

I lost my V6 to forst damage 2 yrs ago.

Hope all is OK

<hr width=100% size=1>Complete the Consumer Survey <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.mssa.org.uk>http://www.mssa.org.uk</A> Marine Service Standards Assistance
 
It dont matter how much insolation. Even a thermos flask gets cold eventually. You have to add heat.

<hr width=100% size=1> <font color=blue>No one can force me to come here.<font color=red> I'm a volunteer!!.<font color=blue>

Haydn
 
Can't see why you're worried by raw water side.Surely any antifreeze you put in that will get blown out the first time you start the engine and in any case, if it's salt water, it will need to be very cold indeed to freeze
If you're concerned just put one of those tubular greenhouse heaters in the engine bay overnight on a low thermostat setting

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
well, think sea water will freeze at about -2degrees C. I assume raw water was sea water, not fresh?

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Boat is now on hard standing until end of March, with no connection to electric. Just not sure at what point salt water in the system would freeze??

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
I'm not sure how you could add anti-freeze on the raw water side and, if you could, how it would permeate to the other parts of the system. I guess the best you can do is open the seacock and undo any hoses to let any water drain out
But, for sure, there are thousands of unheated boats sitting on hards at the moment with residues of raw water in their systems and nobody seems to identify it as a major problem

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Normally I just take intake pipe off andput it into a bucket of 50/50 mix, it will be the first job tomorrow, if the damage isn't already done.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
If boat is sterndrive,use outboard motor muffs with a piece of hose and a funnel, start engine and pour a bucketful of 50% antifreeze mixture in,that would suffice if engine is heat exchanger cooled,if as in my case and most sterndrives it is raw water cooled,and like mine inaccessible and/or seized draincocks, pour antifreeze mixture in and catch the mixture as it comes out of exhaust/prop and keep recycling it until it becomes hot enough to open the thermostat ie running temperature.This must be done otherwise engine block will not get any antifreeze.Yes I know the mixture will get slighly contaminated by exhaust byproducts,but antifreeze is anti corrosive,and its much better than a split block!!

<hr width=100% size=1>Mike....... V8s are sweet music
 
Agree with advise, except I would run engine up to temp on hose pipe 1st, this will flush salt out and open thermostat. Then carry on as you suggest and put a bucket of a/freeze mix through, when it comes out of exhaust, you know it's in there.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.arweb.co.uk/argallery/colspics> Cols Picture Album</A>
 
Yes,I agree with run up to temp on hosepipe,but still need two or three recycles of mixture to make sure engine is well treated,otherwise thermostat may shut just giving exhaust risers lots of antifreeze and still neat water in engine block!! possibly 70% antifreeze in bucket would be best to allow for intial dilution by water in block and risers

<hr width=100% size=1>Mike....... V8s are sweet music
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top