Fridge

Johnnygil

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The Engel fridge on the bucket is running down the battery within say 2 hours of turning it on and then I hace no lights or anything . I f I start the engine then everything comes back up, the reason I feel its the fridge is that with fridge off everything is ok.

Do the distinguished members of the panel have any ideas as to why this should be and possibly any avenues to explore before I haveto purchase a new fridge.

Cheers

John

P.S. Battery is new

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boatone

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Something sounds odd here but need more information.
What is the fridge power consumption....should be on plate on rear of fridge but likely to be somewhere between 50 - 100 watts = 4 to 8 amps when running.
Battery may be new but how well is it charged? What is battery capacity?

If battery is not fully charged and fridge is drawing 8 amps then quite possible a couple of hours of fridge will drag battery level down to low level. When you turn fridge on it will run continuously until the operating temp you have selected is reached which could well take two hours or more depending on ambient temperature. The thermostat will then kick in to maintain temp and the fridge will probably be actually running for only say 50% of the time.

The key to this may lie in your statement that the battery is new. I have 3 x 110 Ah batteries on my boat and the bulk of the demand is the fridge. I reckon to be able to go two days without needing to charge.
Sounds like more battery capacity may be the key issue.


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Tomsk

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Re: \'nother fridgy question..

Not wanting to detract from the origins of this post, but on a fridgy subject..

My bloody fridge NEVER stops running - which is impossible at night as it's just too loud. Is this likely to be a thermostat issue? If so, are they generally easy to replace?

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boatone

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Re: \'nother fridgy question..

Depends on your unit but I would say it is most likely to be a thermostat issue. Do you have an adjustment knob inside the fridge for setting the temperature? If so just turning it up and down and listening for a click should let you verify if stat is working or not. I keep mine set at about one third level. If you have it set to full it may never kick in because the fridge wont reach the temperature you've set.
If its really noisy it may be that you need to pull it out and make sure all the fixing nuts and bolts are tight. I had a noisy fridge but it was all down to rattling bits and so much quieter afterwards !

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boatless

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Some elec fridges also have an adjustment for the threshold voltage. Turning that up a little will save you a last volt or two - if yours is fitted with one.

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itsonlymoney

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Re: \'nother fridgy question..

Will either be a thermostat as you state, fairly easy to replace. Or a faulty power pack, still easy ish to replace as long as its not a Norcold unit over about 4 yrs old as these units require an upgrade kit comprising of various new components and a bit of rewiring to make it fit. you must first check if your stat is working, to do this you need to check it with a meter when the unit is down to temp to see if its still sending a signal out. The other thing to bare in mind is, is the unit actually getting down to temp cos if its not then the unit will continue to run indefinately.
hope this is of help - Ian

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Tomsk

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Re: \'nother fridgy question..

Guess what.. it's a Norcold unit and over four years old...

I don't think it ever get's down to temperature now - it did until a couple of months ago - freezer tray never ices over. Compressor still keeps running 24 hours even on lowest therostat setting..

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itsonlymoney

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Re: \'nother fridgy question..

I that case to quote a technical term we use in the trade "Its knackered" will probably cost more to repair than to replace. I suggest you try <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.discountsailing.com>here </A> I have dealt with them before and they offer reasonable prices and excellent service. If however you want to remove it and have it repaired I can more than likely give you a contact name if you PM me
Regards - Ian

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Johnnygil

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B1

Thanks for that will look into the power bit and also think batt is a 675ah but will check this week and pm you if thats ok

J

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coliholic

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675Ah? Are you sure Johnnygil? That seems an awfully big battery, be enough power in that for B1 to keep his Stannah Stairlift going all day.

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Tomsk

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Re: \'nother fridgy question..

Thanks (I think..) might have to just do without though! There must be a scrap yard full of old caravan fridges somewhere...

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Johnnygil

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coli

Thats only what I can see in my mind maybe its 110 ah I aint got a clue, will be going to the bucket this week so will check it out and get back to peeps

I never knew he had a Stannah I thought B1 had a Pedro

Latersss

J

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Talbot

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Re: \'nother fridgy question..

I have a multi fuel fridge (gas/12v/240v) which is designed for caravans, but am planning to replace it either this winter or next for a 12v keel cooled unit. The old one draws abt 8 amps when running on 12v, whereas the new ones are abt 3 amps, and reckon my 180w solar panel should be able to cope!

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Tomsk

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Re: \'nother fridgy question..

Think I might be reverting to a string bag hung off the bathing platform and into the Irish Sea.. must be bloody cold enough in there!

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Talbot

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Re: \'nother fridgy question..

if there is enough wind, place items into a sealed bag, then inside a hessian sack, wetting the sack thoroughgly. as the wind evaporates the water from the bag, it cools down - just make sure it never dries out .

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Andrew_Fanner

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J.

That 675Ah is almost certainly the cold cranking capacity value, 110Ah is far more likely as the battery capacity.

Check that the engine is recharging the battery when it is running, been there, had to drink the warm Chablis.

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coliholic

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You only talk to me B1, 'cos I'm the only person who'll speak loud enough so that you can hear without switching your hearing aid on.

And BTW have you cut down that zimmer frame that you call a radar arch yet?

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Johnnygil

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Pretty sure it is charging as when engine not running with fridge on low volts across batt when engine runs 12 volts across batt

So thats why reasoning to fridge being faulty but will be checking out wht B1 said also wonder if diameter of wire could have anything to do with it.

Cheers



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