Fresh Water pump keeps running

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Windfall

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Our new (to us) boat has a fresh water pump (ooh, what luxury after 25 years of manual pumping) but it runs even when the taps are closed. I'm sure this isn't right but not sure how to fix it. We currently get by, by switching it off, but that only treats the symptom not the cause.

Anyone have any suggestions?

thanks

Sharon
 
Windfall said:
Our new (to us) boat has a fresh water pump (ooh, what luxury after 25 years of manual pumping) but it runs even when the taps are closed. I'm sure this isn't right but not sure how to fix it. We currently get by, by switching it off, but that only treats the symptom not the cause.

Anyone have any suggestions?

thanks

Sharon
Click to expand...
a faulty micro switch or a leak in the pipework
 
Windfall said:
Our new (to us) boat has a fresh water pump (ooh, what luxury after 25 years of manual pumping) but it runs even when the taps are closed. I'm sure this isn't right but not sure how to fix it. We currently get by, by switching it off, but that only treats the symptom not the cause.

Anyone have any suggestions?

thanks

Sharon
Click to expand...

If it runs continuously , delivers a good flow and does not even tend to cycle on and off when the flow is cut down I start by looking at the pressure sensor and control micro switch.

But what make and model is it ?


If it tended to keep pulsing on at intervals I d look at the pump valves or for the possibility of a leak somewhere.
 
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Ours does the same if we don't 'bleed' the system after filling up. Any air trapped in the pipework will not be capable of being compressed as the water can and so the pressure never gets up to a level to trigger the pressure switch. Basically with the pump on open all the taps for a few seconds and then start closing them in order, the furthest from tthe pump first and so on. If this doesn't stop the pump (and it can take 4 or 5 seconds for the system to get up to pressure) then I would concur with the earlier answers. Good luck with it.

Chas
 
chasroberts said:
Ours does the same if we don't 'bleed' the system after filling up. Any air trapped in the pipework will not be capable of being compressed as the water can and so the pressure never gets up to a level to trigger the pressure switch. Basically with the pump on open all the taps for a few seconds and then start closing them in order, the furthest from tthe pump first and so on. If this doesn't stop the pump (and it can take 4 or 5 seconds for the system to get up to pressure) then I would concur with the earlier answers. Good luck with it.

Chas
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But air is compressible, its water that isn't. A pocket of air in the system should eventually compress, after all that is basically all an accumulator tank is.

Your problem is probably air getting in to the pump. It may indicate the need to clean, overhaul or replace the valves in the pump as one would expect the pump to normally be self priming.
 
Windfall said:
Our new (to us) boat has a fresh water pump (ooh, what luxury after 25 years of manual pumping) but it runs even when the taps are closed. I'm sure this isn't right but not sure how to fix it. We currently get by, by switching it off, but that only treats the symptom not the cause.

Anyone have any suggestions?

thanks

Sharon
Click to expand...

Check your bilges.
 
Border Terrier said:
As the Boatmaster/Freelance Yacht Skipper/Instructor/RYA Shorebased Establishment -AT Yachting,
meant to explain: rising water in the bilges while the water pump is on, points towards a leak in the water system.

It might also suggest a sinking boat.
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Bloody hell, if you find me that fascinating your close to asking me out on a date.
You sure your on the right forum?
 
Is there a strainer upstream of the pump? I have occasionally experienced your symptoms when a bit of debris from the tank gets itself lodged in one of the suction valves of the pump. I have had silicone sealant blobs from the tank top bolts and particles of corroded copper from the pipework in the tank.
 
Fresh water pump keeps running - now fixed

Windfall said:
Our new (to us) boat has a fresh water pump (ooh, what luxury after 25 years of manual pumping) but it runs even when the taps are closed. I'm sure this isn't right but not sure how to fix it. We currently get by, by switching it off, but that only treats the symptom not the cause.

Anyone have any suggestions?


thanks

Sharon
Click to expand...


thanks for everyone's suggestions. We' ve been away from the boat for a month, but since I posted my question we've tried all of your suggestions and in the process discovered and repaired/replaced a leaky core to the shower hose, a voltage drop at the pressure switch, a tiny leak on an inlet pipe, and a broken non return valve on the foot pump. All fixed and now a fully functioning pressurised water system. I now know much more than I ever thought I needed about fresh water plumbing systems.

Oh and just for fun we also cured the non flushing problem in the heads. The Lavac pump and associated pipe work had been installed incorrectly - pump was horizontal and the pipes were the wrong way round.....so now I also now loads about heads plumbing too.

I also know quite a lot about spending loads of money at the chandlers. Old boats, don't you just love em.
 
Windfall said:
thanks for everyone's suggestions. We' ve been away from the boat for a month, but since I posted my question we've tried all of your suggestions and in the process discovered and repaired/replaced a leaky core to the shower hose, a voltage drop at the pressure switch, a tiny leak on an inlet pipe, and a broken non return valve on the foot pump. All fixed and now a fully functioning pressurised water system. I now know much more than I ever thought I needed about fresh water plumbing systems.

Oh and just for fun we also cured the non flushing problem in the heads. The Lavac pump and associated pipe work had been installed incorrectly - pump was horizontal and the pipes were the wrong way round.....so now I also now loads about heads plumbing too.

I also know quite a lot about spending loads of money at the chandlers. Old boats, don't you just love em.
Click to expand...

I've been through similar experiences with "new" systems on "new" boats. It is part of getting to know the boat and satisfying once you work it all out and get them working properly. It's also reassuring to know that you can sort any future problems if necessary as well. :)
 
l'escargot said:
I've been through similar experiences with "new" systems on "new" boats. It is part of getting to know the boat and satisfying once you work it all out and get them working properly. It's also reassuring to know that you can sort any future problems if necessary as well. :)
Click to expand...

One of the amazing benefits of this forum.
 
l'escargot said:
I've been through similar experiences with "new" systems on "new" boats. It is part of getting to know the boat and satisfying once you work it all out and get them working properly. It's also reassuring to know that you can sort any future problems if necessary as well. :)
Click to expand...

We chartered a boat some years ago which was in its first charter season so had already been used for several months. Before we left the base, I was looking at the three way valve for the holding tank / sea outlet and thought that it seemed to be labelled, or the pipes connected, the wrong way round i.e. when you think you are pumping into the holding tank you were actually pumping into the sea. I did a couple of tests with my son peering over the side and confirmed my suspicion.

I popped into the charter office to mention it and the engineer said that's impossible as someone else would have noticed by now. I invited him to have a look.

Luckily he brought his screwdriver so could spend a few minutes swopping the hoses over.

Richard
 
cpedw said:
Wouldn't it have been easier to swap the labels?
Derek
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I replaced a shower pump on my boat with a different model when I first got it. Switched it on the first time and the fuse blew. Stuck a meter across the terminals and the old one had been wired with reverse polarity - the black wire was positive and the red wire was negative. I just went to the switch end and swapped the wires over on the terminals, whoever installed it obviously couldn't be bothered to do the same.
 
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