Fresh water penta 2003

[Chris.mcc240]

I have a fresh water Penta 2003 which i installed in my centaur this year, apart from a leak in the return hose to the expansion tank which caused the over heat alarm to go off (Had to shut it down cut a couple of inches off and refill the system..Covieniently in the middle of the shipping channels off harwich) it has ran faultlesly this year. Around 150 hours.
As im not going to be using it over the winter i want to give the fresh water system a good service.
As i have never had a fresh water cooled engine what do i need to do?
Should i strip the compleat cooling system of the engine
What do i need?
Where can i get any spare parts without spending the earth!
It would seem to also make sense to replace all the rubber hosing on the engine as one has let me down due to an over tight hose clip,where can i get these.
It my intention to drain the fresh water sytem after running a mixture of water 50% antifreeze throgh the raw water inlet for the winter.
Any advcie/step by step guide would be apprieciated.

 

[scottie]

You can find various sources of less expensive parts but I would suggest that buying a pack if still sold rubber rings for the copper pipes essential
but LOOSEN BOTH ENDS OF ANY PIPES you disturb is imperative to enable you to refit and seal as they are designed to fit in tension to secure sealing misshaped pipes don't seal and can fallout
Don't touch the fuel del pumps as they are shimmed and only remove the injectors with proper tool and engine water drained .

 

[Chris.mcc240]

Found the seal kit on keypart, but i haven't been able to find a source of replacement hoses, im going to be carful with the pipes. I have no plans on touching the fuel system.
Also i need to install a vented loop but i the cheepest i could find was £150 im sure there must be somthing a lot more reasonable available.
Any suggestions appreciated..

 

[Pagetslady]

The vented loop you refer to is for the raw water system to prevent it siphoning after the engine has stopped. On my westerly which has a VP 2003 it is very simple and cheap, you will need to create a loop in the water pipe somewhere in the circuit mine I think is between the water pump and the gearbox cooler. ( I could be wrong about this as I am not able to get to my boat to look) anyway once you have your Loop as high above the engine as possible cut the pipe and insert a "T" piece connect the "T" into the loop now you need to make up a reducer to take a length of pipe with a small hole in this pipe on mine is lead to a fitting in the topside just below the Rubbing strake this will a small stream of water to flow when ever the engine is running but will also allow air back in when not running and prevent it siphoning.
Hope this helps.MIke

 

[Jamesuk]

Fresh water cooled engine without a raw water heat exchanger. How would that work somewhere hot like the Med? Just asking

 

[pvb]

Found the seal kit on keypart, but i haven't been able to find a source of replacement hoses, im going to be carful with the pipes. I have no plans on touching the fuel system.
Also i need to install a vented loop but i the cheepest i could find was £150 im sure there must be somthing a lot more reasonable available.
Any suggestions appreciated..

You don't need to touch the copper pipes at all - if they don't leak, leave them alone.

You can buy rubber hose from any decent marine engineer, anyone who sells engines will have hoses in stock. Suggest you also fit new SS hose clamps - buy the best you can find.

Don't know where you've been looking, but £150 for a vented loop is ridiculous! The Vetus anti syphon valve is widely sold at under £100, and Force4 have one for under £50.

The winterisation procedure is described in the Owner Manual, which you can download from the Volvo Penta website.

 

[davidej]

Fresh water cooled engine without a raw water heat exchanger. How would that work somewhere hot like the Med? Just asking

How would it work anywhere?

But I can't see anything in this thread saying he hasn't got one!

 

[VicS]

The closed circuit fresh water system should be normally filled with an antifreeze mixture all the time. It will give frost protection to the engine during the winter and the inhibitors will give corrosion protection all year round.

Assuming you are using a conventional low silicate antifreeze you should drain and refill every 2 years.

The seawater circuit should be filled with an antifreeze mixture as part of the laying up.

Details are in the owners manual .

If you have mislaid your copy you can down load one from http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/glo...ice/publication_search/publication_search.htm
or http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads.html ( same manual as the 2002)

Please remember ethylene glycol based antifreeze is toxic and hazardous to the marine environment so dispose of any you drain safely ashore.

IIRC the anti-syphon valve in the 2001/2/3 engines is normally fitted in a loop of pipe between the seawater pump and the heat exchanger ( in fact it is I think the only practical place for it). Do NOT fit it anywhere between the inlet seacock the pump suction!

The antisyphon valve is required if the injection point into the exhaust is less than about 15cm above the water line. The antisyphon valve itself should be located about 40cm, or more, above the water line

.

 

[Chris.mcc240]

Thanks for all the above advice.
PVB, I think the advice if it isnt broke don,t fix it! is sound, however i have no idea of the history of this engine so i don,t know the maintanance schedule it has been subjected to. My thinking was that from what i understand it is a good idea to take the element out of the heat exchanger and dissolve it in some sort of cleaner over the winter. Not sure what this is called or if this is somthing that needs to be done anually. Its running fine so im tempted to just place fresh antifreeze mix in the freshwater cooling run a mix through the raw water and leave it!
Im a little concerned because i think we may be in for a hard winter...[really hard]
The vented loop i haven,t measured the distance above the water level the exhust elbow is, but its well above 15 cm, i was just being on the careful side. The quote for a loop i got was from where i keep my boat in Brightling sea without mentioning firms..
It was the only job i didn,t do when i installed the emgine but i only had a budjet of 2K and that included buying the engine boat lift out and fitting so it was tight and i just ran out of money.
I,ve looked at force 4 and the other main suppliers and the loops for sale seem to be jabsco or similar plastic makes for toilet systems no mention of engine cooling systems, so if anyone can recomend a suitable product and supplier i would appreciate it.
The mention above about fresh water engine cooling sytems in the med i have no idea.

 

[VicS]

The vented loop i haven,t measured the distance above the water level the exhust elbow is, but its well above 15 cm, i was just being on the careful side.

Or fixing something else that is not broken

 

[Chris.mcc240]

Yea point taken !

 

[pvb]

PVB, I think the advice if it isnt broke don,t fix it! is sound, however i have no idea of the history of this engine so i don,t know the maintanance schedule it has been subjected to. My thinking was that from what i understand it is a good idea to take the element out of the heat exchanger and dissolve it in some sort of cleaner over the winter. Not sure what this is called or if this is somthing that needs to be done anually. Its running fine so im tempted to just place fresh antifreeze mix in the freshwater cooling run a mix through the raw water and leave it!

My 2003T is 20 years old. Apart from antifreeze and impeller changes, the cooling system has never been touched.

 

[rob2]

http://www.force4.co.uk/Search/anti-syphon/

Have a look here. You need to search for "anti syphon" on chandlers' websites.

Rob.

 

[scottie]

The element is not removable but you can take he end caps off if you do mark them as they must go back on as they came off the centre stud and nuts at need replacing along with the end seals which are different at each end.

 

[MoodySabre]

I don't have a vented loop on my freshwater cooled VP2003.

Hoses - go to a motor factors and buy radiator hose - sold by the metre in many sizes. Nothing in a boat gets hotter than a car.

 

[VicS]

I don't have a vented loop on my freshwater cooled VP2003.

Its not the type of engine that is the important factor in determining whether or not an anti-syphon loop is required, or advisable.
Its the height of the injection point into the exhaust relative to the water line that counts.