Frameless windows

[markpageant]

Ive stripped out my Westerly Pageant windows and the alu frames are crumbling badly. Im tempted to replace them with frameless sheets of plastic. Anyone know the rough cost, type of plastic and where I could get them cut and drilled ?

 

[marno]

This is the best article I have seen on how to do it http://thecoastalpassage.com/windows.html .
Unfortunately it is not based here, so you would have to find the equivalent suppliers of the appropriate parts.

 

[Spuddy]

I used perspex from a local sign maker and cut out using a bandsaw myself. I'm sure they'd do it for a bit extra or a jig saw would work - put parcel tape over the lines to cut as it helps to prevent the sides welding back together. No sign of any UV damage after 3 years. Bedded them down on neoprene sheet - again from a Dave on the industrial estate.

 

[davierobb]

Mark,

Performed the same job on a 26' snappy and it was a big improvement. DONT use perspex, is a bitch to work with and its not very srtong (cracks easily). We used polycorbonate and it cost approx £50 from local supplier. Stainless bolts were from a2a4. Windows wont leek, leave a 1" border and use silicone.

Davie

 

[MrCramp]

Agree with Davie, don't use perspex. I got my sign maker to cut out the windows. Use a piece of hardboard and trace the opening profile and then tell them to cut the window 1 inch (or whatever overlap you want) bigger. Don't rebate the bolt heads (don't use countersunk heads) as they tend to help cracks develop.

I used neoprene strip rather than silicone. Make sure the polycarbonate is plenty thick enough. I has the edges beveled, but did use 12mm.

 

[steve_l]

Most has been said already, but as I've done this on a couple of boats there are a couple of things to add...

- Don't make the screw holes too tight, allow enough clearance so that screws are not hard against the edges of any of the holes. This will reduce stress points (which can induce cracks later), especially when following a curved surface. Start from the centre and work outwards when tightening the screws.

- Don't use only sealant (sikaflex or whatever) as it squeezes out too easily when you tighten down the screws. Either use a gasket as already mentioned or use small rubber rings under the screw holes to maintain a gap that the sealant can fill.

And of course, good luck with the project...

 

[Bandit]

Make the holes for bolts oversize otherwise the Perspex or Poly carbonate will crack iff too tight.

Polycarbonate many times stronger then Perspex ( used in bullet proof glass and riot shields) but is softer and will scratch a bit more.

 

[Gordonmc]

Another vote for polycarbonate.
I got enough 6mm offcuts from a local glazier for a few quid. Drilling and cutting is easy as the material is so sift. Don't cut too fast though or it will overheat. Clean up edges with a block surform or similar. Leave the protective film on for as long as possible.
I will endorse what others have said about over-drilling screw holes.

 

[GrowingLad]

Nothing much to add to the above as it's all good. Just one small point.

I found it better to do nice zigg zag pattern with the silicon so when you offered the windows up you got a nice even spread, don't go crazy with the silcon..... Push the window down, but not with a crazy amount of pressure and tighten up the screws slighly, Leave it for 10-15 minutes to let it set a little and then tighten the screws down further so you get a nice bed of silicon between the window and base.

Finish off with a small bead of silicon around the edge finished off with a wet finger to get a nicer finish.

I then used a black hammerite type of paint as a boarder so you couldn't see the base through the clear window...which as I think about it whilst I write sounds a bit nasty but it turned out quite nice...I went down that route as that was how it was before I reffited all the windows and seemed to last the test of time.