Forum Rules ?

actionoptics

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I am new to this and relatively new to sailing so I read the forum comments in an effort to learn. I do however know a lot about optical instruments especially binoculars and have my own repair workshop. What are the rules about replying / joining in a discussion? How strict are the rules about appearing to be trading? I do have a lot of experience and knowledge which I am happy to share . I recently replied to a question about 7x50 bins for sailing and my reply disappeared within a few hours.

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snowleopard

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there are a few regulars here who are in the trade and use the forum to promote themselves, sometimes declaring an interest, sometimes not. blatant advertising will get you flamed at the very least.

professional expertise given without advertising will make you very welcome so please join in!

and while on the subject... i have a set of canon is binocs, 10x30. i find them good on land but useless at sea as the stabilisation can't cope with the motion of the boat. others seem to find them excellent, do you think the problem is me & the motion of the boat or could my binocs be faulty?

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Jools_of_Top_Cat

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I think it is about perception. If you blatantly advertise products and services you will get canned. But if you give a straight answer to a straight question then I personally think it fair enough. I would guess you have to resist jumping in to every discussion on optics pushing your stock.

If you are as good as you say, within a short time other forumites who have either bought from you or have had good advice will start to plug your services for you, when that happens you are placed in a position of trust. This forum IMO is a very powerful tool which would be ruined if traders began to abuse it.

Try to use the forum as a user with a specialism, rather than a specialist on the forum.


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Talbot

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welcome to the forum. As has already been said, blatant advertising gets stamped on, but the provision of expert advise in a specialist area is of great value.

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MedMan

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I agree with the comments already made: so long as you don't attempt blatent advertising your expertise will be welcome. If, as a side effect, that leads to some custom coming your way because fellow forum users recognise the value of your knowledge, I for one would have no problem with that.

Here's your starter for 10 (10 brownie points, that is!):

I am interested in the prospect of using a Laser Rangefinder to measure distance off the shore and from other boats when at anchor. Despite (or perhaps beacause of!) having spent some 2000 nights at anchor I still find it very difficult at times to judge how far off I am. A Laser Rangefinder such as those made by Leica look as if they would solve the problem, but would they work? I am reluctant to fork out several hundred pounds on the off-chance! I have tried one at a boat show and it worked well off the side of a building 70 metres away, but what about a rough rocky shore? Have you any experience of using a Rangefinder in this way or are you in a position to try one out and let us know?



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Walnut

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I am sure you can use a sextant for measuring distances. Could that be adapted for your purpose. Does anyone have any tips for judging distance?

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mirabriani

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Welcome to the forum. How refreshingly honest you are.
Allow me to pick your brains. I have a cheap pair of binoculars, marked 20x50
When buoy spotting I have to get close to read the name due to the movement.
Of course it could be me. If I were to invest in a new pair is it worth the extra to buy stabilised and/ or fixed focus?
A search of recent posts mention Steiners, Bynolt at £140 Jessops at £65 and Sunnyseeker at £40 I am confused!
Hopefully Briani

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boatless

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Which model is it - modern Firewire/USB2 or older serial version?

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robp

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Well your answer is in the amount of advice requested. Nice one! Other members with professional advice to offer have had no problem when it's understood that their posts are not just a cynical way of doing business. (And it's been very welcome). Good luck.

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ongolo

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medman,

Sory to chip in, I built my boat on a game farm/hunting farm. There were occasions when hunters had laser range finders. I remember they usually had Swarovski's (made in Austria), because to this farm came mostly Austrians. Expensive, but very wel worth it. Dont know about the abuse or conditions in a marine environment.

I think the maximum range of them was 1200m and they worked very well and indicated the distance when you put the marker on any object.

OOpps maybe I should have read the other replies first. Too late now.


regards ongolo


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MainlySteam

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Re: Forum Rules Metamophised into those for Distance Off?

<<<Does anyone have any tips for judging distance?>>>

The following is blatantly plagerised from YM April 2004 issue - I found it interesting and worth remembering.

"In daylight, trees and houses are just visible at 4 miles, windows at doors at two miles, people and traffic appear as blobs at one mile and are identifiable at half a mile. Large navigation buoys show as blobs at two miles, the shape can be seen at one mile, and the colour and topmark at half a mile "

They make the point that everyone's eyesight differs so work it out to suit ones own sight.

I find it difficult to judge the distance over sea but one method I use if the sea horizon is also visible, such as for islands, is to guesstimate the ratio between oneself and the island to the distance to the horizon (approx 3 miles if your eyes 6 foot above water, so if one can see the beach of an island in line with the horizon then it is about three miles away, if the beach (or a buoy, boat, whatever) is about halfway to the horizon then it is about 1.5 miles away). The same applies with a coastline and no sea horizon to compare with - if the waters edge can just be seen then is about 3 miles away if eyes are 6 foot above the water.

Distance to horizon table (Height of Eye ft - Distance in nm):

4 - 2.3
5 - 2.6
6 - 2.9
7 - 3.1
8 - 3.3
9 - 3.5
10 - 3.7
15 - 4.5
20 - 5.2
25 - 5.9
30 - 6.4

Hope that is of assistance and thanks to YM, I found the rules they gave helpful.

John

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actionoptics

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Thanks for the advice. I will make sure I declare my interest when posting a reply. I sail a 7.47m Snapdragon in the choppy Solent and whilst I always have a 7x50 bino with built in compass on board, I also take a Canon IS 10x30 which is usually better for seeing names on bouys and other boats. When you use yours and press the black button on top ( did I hear someone say "What black button?" ? ) do you see a visible 'freeze' of the image? If you do and they still don't work for you, then it is you. If you don't see the freeze effect, then try changing the batteries. Also check that the battery contacts are clean. Anyone using a Canon IS model must be careful not to drop them as I have had to send three of the 10x30 back to Canon this year as I can't fix them. Two cost about £90 each to realign. The third was beyond economical repair.

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actionoptics

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20x50 on a boat? What size boat? The power of 20x is usually far too much and far too wobbly on any boat less than an Ocean Liner. The other problem or rather another problem is the brightness. One of the Laws of Physics says that if you divide the magnification into the diameter of the front lens, you get the exit pupil size. This is the disc of light that leaves the back of the bino and enters your eyes. A typical boating 7x50 gives a figure of 7.1mm and our eyes pupils can open up to about 7 or 8 mm ( at least when we were young and fit ) Your 20x50 give a figure of 2.5 mm and due to the Square Law of optics/light , the difference between 7.1 and 2.5 is dramatic. I would never recommend a 20x50 for use on a boat. Another problem with 20x50 binos is that no one really makes a good quality one so you have too much power; not enough light and poor optics anyway. Even a 10x without image stabilisation ( see Canon 10x30 IS comments ) is usually too much.

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actionoptics

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Sorry I forgot to reply to the second part of your question. Canon 10x30 IS are brilliant but at £300 and not water proof and expensive to repair, are a bit of a risky luxury. I only use one cos I took it in second hand and it does not owe me that much if it got damaged. There are two ways of looking at boating binos. One is to buy a cheap one and throw it away if it goes wrong / gets fungus growths etc. The modern £30 binos are remarkably good for the money. Moving up a bit, you can get a water proof rubber armoured mid quality for £60 to £80 and they should last quite few years. You definitely get a better image if you pay the little extra - £100 to £140. Binolyt and Jessops and Helios Oceanranger probably all come from the same factory so it is sensible to buy the cheapest. The Helios with built in compass and distance off graticule, rubber armoured and fully water proof is only £98 with a floating strap and case included. I would be concerned about taking a really expensive bino afloat and certainly would be worried about leaving it on board.

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dickh

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I use a Russion pair of 7x50 which I bought in Moscow several years ago for $25. Excellent binos, but heavy and bulky. They always stay on the boat and the lenses are just beginning to get a bit of 'marking' around the edge - and the stiffen up over tome thro' corrosion etc. The rubber eye shrouds have disintegrated - do you know where I can get replacements?
My 'best' binos are Pentax 7x50's which I rarely take on the boat, usually only on our summer cruise so we can both have a pair.

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