Foresail

Sigma 33s used to have that, don't think you'd be able to use it in conjunction with the RR, but could use it if setting up for a long beat in heavy stuff as you'll almost certainly get a better sail shape than with a part furled genoa.
 
My boat has the same. The genoa has a bead (or is it a bolt rope) along the luff which slides up the track on the furler. The working jib on the other hand is the original with reefing points so that it can be reduced to storm jib size. The original piston hanks have been replaced with plastic hanks designed to slip up the furler track (I don't know there proper name so I'm just calling them plastic hanks for a furler track). I'll take it into the sail makers this winter and get a proper bolt rope put along the luff as the hanks always jam, and need nursing up the track: I have no problem with the genoa. I like the arrangement because when it gets windy I can simply go forward and reef down the jib, without ruining the sail shape.
 
Before you make the changes, consider the possibility of the sail pulling out of the groove. When part rolled that can't happen but if you reef it unrolled, there may be a great force at the new tack position trying to pull it out.
 
"without ruining the sail shape. "

I find that the foam strips in the luff of my furling genoa leave me with a pretty good shape when part furled. The technology has moved on.
Ken
 
I used to have a sail like that, but not on a roller. I suspect it is a sail that has been altered to fit a roller, but may be none the worse for that.

I found that this reefing system was very useful, as it gave a reduced sail that set quite well. You did need to reef before hoisting all the way, and I preferred to do so while still moored, but it gave a lot of confidence on a windy day to be able to set this sail.
 
Thanks for advice. My plan is (haven't tested it out yet, but will do before making changes) that when reefing it I will lower the halyard so that the luff cringle (new tack) would be about level with where the furling grove starts (about 12 inches above the tack position on the furler). Then clip on a short strop and retension the halyard. At some point during all that I'll attach a change sheet. I think as long as the halyard is set nice and taught the luff shouldn't pull out of the grove, if it does I'll have to do away with the strop and just reef down to the shackle on the furler. Though a short strop will leave a bit of space for water to break across the foredeck. Having said that, i haven't tried reefing it yet, so it may be the clew is cut quite high and there is plenty of space.
 
I agree that the technology is a lot better, I sail a lot on my Dad's boat which has a cruising laminate genoa with a foam luff, and it's very good.
Still not as good as a reefed sail though.
 
I have reefing points in all my sails, i have an old racer cruiser and all my foresails have reefing points. This means that the Number 2 becomes a 2/3 and the number 4 becomes a 4/5. It cuts down on the number of sails to be carried and maintains a great shape when reefed. I do have roller reefing and always prefer to actually reef the sail rather than to furl it. The difference is about 5 degrees and half a knot. I reckon that all roller furling sails would benefit from reef point.
 
I had a Mirador with reefing points on the foresail which was fitted to a plastic foil on the forestay. I eventually fitted a roller and had the sail cut down at the reefpoints as it was too long to fit on the roller spar.
 
Here's a nicely cut headsail. Check out the precision cut of the leach and how it lies beautifully snug with the curved spreaders which have been designed for this.

farr_85_542.jpg
 
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