Foresail shackle damage to crew.

flashman1

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I am ordered to replace the shackles connecting the foresail sheets to their sail clews by something softer than bronze, or else -"THAT'S IT". How does the team suggest I do this without a shackle? The boat is an 18 ft teak gaff cutter built Singapore 1935 with traditional fittings and crew, used for slow sailing in light airs.
 
The one I would recommend on a small boat of some 18ft is the
The "Bowline on a Bight" simple it is one length and it will not come loose and if it hits you on the head it will not hurt as much as a shackle.
It requires setting up in the middle of the sheet and all the line passing though itself.
A little fiddly to assemble but once done it can be left on the sail.
Not wishing to get into any confrontation with other views my concern with the
Buntline hitch it it can become very difficult to undo without the use of a spike.
Have a look here for animated knots.:-http://www.animatedknots.com/bowlinebight/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
 
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perhaps consider the dyneema soft shackles ?

http://www.colligomarine.com/


There is a growing number of stores in the UK doing these - Atlantic Rigging but their site is down. I believe it's possible to make them yourself, but it needs quite a bit of practice.
 
Practical Boat Owner showed how to do this a few years ago. I've used it ever since:
- no expense
- use existing sheets
- do it once
- change headsails rapidly without untying


It does however confuse people who've never seen it!

Excuse the drawing, did it on my lap trying to sort out a computer problem

Take both sheets:

tie a bowline in the conventional way - but with both: drawing 1

work the the bowline - drawing 2 - until you have:
- one long tail - with a very small bight
- one large bight

tie a figure-of-eight knot in the long tail

attach to the sail - drawing 3 - by passing the:
- long eye of the bowline through the cringle
- tail through the bight

It takes a bit of adjustment to get the lengths right the first time - but I haven't untied it in years - well, except to wash the sheets.

When you wish to take off the sheets for any reason, pull the eye a little further through the cringle, slide out the tail and the sheets are detached - no cutting, re-tying, loosening. Takes seconds
 
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So much I don't know!

Agree that bowlines thrash loose, especially just when you do NOT want to go forewards, but I solve that by using insulating tape (or self amalgamating tape if the sheet stays on all season) to tie the loose end to the bight. It has never come off and is quick and easy to undo.

The cow hitch gives the least possible amount of knot to hit you, but requires a double length of rope, and can be very hard to undo, so not very good if sail changes are needed.
 
You might also wish to include some lighter line than the existing sheets in the system - something shorter than the distance between the clew and the fairlead. Attach it to the sheets and not only will it be easier to tie to the clew but the sail will fill more easily in light weather.

Don't worry about breaking strains - the only reason jib sheets are as thick as they are is to improve handling. You wont break light line on a jib of a boat that size.

Couldn't help noticing the figure of eight on the end of Phil's jibsheet. Strangely many sailors on crowded (inland) waters won't use stopper knots on sheets, runners etc. If someone's bowsprit gets tucked inside, the crew just lets go the line and all you have to do is re-thread the sheet - rather than potentially pick the entire rig out of the water.
 
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Buntline hitch - used for centuries to attach sheets to sails - and it doesn't loosen like a bowline. :)

Second that, perfect for this application.

Only if you don't plan to remove the sheets. Replacing buntlines on a square-rigger, we had to cut the hitches to remove the old ones.

I use a cow hitch for the headsail sheets on my 24-footer; I'd use bowlines on bigger boats. Seize the tail of the knot to the line if you're worried about it coming undone, but I never have.

Pete
 
On any boat with where the jib's aren't changed, I would use a cow hitch, and leave the sheets attached to the sail.

If more than one jib - i.e. when you might change from a No1 to a No2 or 3 etc, bowlines with nice long tails.
 
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Grateful thanks re shackles.

Thank you all for your responses. After a happy afternoon trying out the suggestions my plan is to use the buntline hitch. The reasons are:- the sheet (which is presently a single long length) is too thick to double up through the cringle and this eliminates a number of the possibilities. I plan to leave the sheet attached to the sail so easy untying of the knot is not critical- my other headsails also have sheets attached (now) by buntline hitches.
The "animatedknots" website is addictive-I can foresee hours of wasted time here. The Dyneema shackles would still need attaching to the sheet I think, and so it might be as easy the attach the sheet direct to the clew. I have a weeks holiday coming up so will try this out and see if being slugged by a knot rather than a bronze shackle is favoured by the bow-woman.
 
What ARE you using for sheets? Sounds like anchor cable!

Given that you cannot get two ropes through the cringle I would then be very tempted to get a short Dynema/Spectra soft strop (eye splice at each end) or a loop made, to which you can attach the sheets with any of the knots so far mentioned. I used one on my CO32 mainsheet for years: it got very thin looking but never broke! Costs less than £10.
 
Thank you all for your responses. After a happy afternoon trying out the suggestions my plan is to use the buntline hitch. The reasons are ... I have a weeks holiday coming up so will try this out and see if being slugged by a knot rather than a bronze shackle is favoured by the bow-woman.

Thank you for taking the trouble to reply and set out your reasons - that really is very good manners indeed.

I'm sure being hit by a knot will be preferred

Happy sailing
 
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