Force 10 cooker auto ignition

clyst

clyst

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More tales of woe !! My force 10 Auto ignition has packed up . Its a leccy job powered by an AA battery,. Ah I thought a flat battery , fitted new but still no good . checked new battery with volt meter , all ok .
When in normal operation all the burners and oven lighters work together but now none work .

Clutching at straws I know but does anyone have any experience of this type of thing or possible cause ??

Cheers
 
Common problem often caused by grease buldup behind oven knob or springs on other knobs..

Like a lot of us boat owners we have a Force 10 oven where some or all the ignitors do not work. After a very nice conversation with the tech rep at Force 10 I learned how to fix them.
1. I did not know that a AA battery was the source for ignition. It lives in the bottom of the oven, right side under the oven door. Replace it
2. The most common problem is the spring under the knobs gets compressed down. This was one of my problems. Here is how to get to it. So easy a caveman can do it and me!!
a. Take off the 3 screws on the top front of the stove to pull the panel off. Pull the knobs off than pull the front panel off.
b. Gently pull off the retainer clip with a small Flathead screwdriver being careful not to loose it.
c. The spring under the retainer clip is the one I am talking about. Take it out and gently pull the spring to extend it out. I used two very small needle nose pliers. Do this for each burner.
d. Put the spring back on and test the ignition by pressing in. If still no spark than on to step two.

Step 2. The ignition harness.
You can save yourself $40 dollars here by taking it apart. I didn't disconnect it from the wires to work on it outside the stove but advise you do. I can be done if one is very careful.
a. After completing all the above in disassemble down to taking off the spring, remove the wiring harness/ ignition box so you can work on it. There is a small washer here under the spring. Don't loose it.
b. The ignition box is held together with 4 small clips on the side. A good finger nail is all that is need to take it apart. "Warning " There are 3 very very small springs inside that will come out. Don't loose these. Note the position of each spring. One is different.
c. Inside the ignition box is 3 very small springs and small copper tab. The copper tab is what you press to make the connection to the positive and negative wires. There are two wing tabs (+-) that I re-bent to make positive contact with their respective wires. I believe this is the cause of most problems. Easy fix.
d. Reassemble and have a nice cup of coffee. Total job 30 mins.
.
Click to expand...

If this does not fix it add a simple push to make switch and bypass all the other wiring.
 
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Thanks for all your replies . Especially to TQA and pvb. Oncke again thanks to you all.
 
My almost one year old Platimo 2500 auto igniter stopped working. Like you the first thing I did was change the battery- still didn't work.
Then I checked the switch. The switch was faulty. Googled Plastimo cooker spares and bought one from Socal which arrived the next morning which is very impressive service.
It was a bit of a fiooter to get the old switch out but the cooker is working fine again now.
 
uxb said:
My almost one year old Platimo 2500 auto igniter stopped working. Like you the first thing I did was change the battery- still didn't work.
Then I checked the switch. The switch was faulty. Googled Plastimo cooker spares and bought one from Socal which arrived the next morning which is very impressive service.
It was a bit of a fiooter to get the old switch out but the cooker is working fine again now.
Click to expand...

Unlikely to be the cause on the Force 10 cooker, this has a switch on every control knob, and they're interlinked, so pressing any knob triggers ignition on all burners.
 
If you google FORCE 10 COOKER.pdf (exactly as I have written ) you should get 3 or 4 manuals for various models. Some troubleshoot advice and bit of a wiring diagram.
I would not spend any money until someone can run a wiring tester over it as corrosion is the norm and easily fixed.
 
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