Following on from unused engine thread

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ripvan1

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Same question really but with petrol (watermota pre x flow ford anglia 105e) is turning ok with socket on pulley wheel and oil on end of dipstick is black - altho' I'll obviously change before having good look at it.

Thanks
 
Quite hard to hurt an 'Angy' engine!

The inertia starters can be hard on the ring gear but fixable using a very hot oven.

Heads/valves/head gasket simple and easy to work on, make need lead replacement additive but probably ok without on boat usage.

Very easy to swap 998 to 1147 to 1500cc

Nick
 
thanks i've a good mechanic mate who will help me out with the dark stuff, it was more along the lines of what i could (numpty) do and how to start while this **** weather passes through. take alternator/start motor off/oil change/filters etc etc but what are the etc,s
 
Last edited:
ripvan1 said:
thanks i've a good mechanic mate who will help me out with the dark stuff, it was more along the lines of what i could (numpty) do and how to start while this **** weather passes through. take alternator/start motor off/oil change/filters etc etc but what are the etc,s
Click to expand...

Not yet run? I would want to hear it run before spending money on it. Also, warm, the old oil will come out more completely.

Filters are cheap, oil filter if orig. car type a little messy.

To start, remove plugs and oil bores with the cheapest Wilko engine oil. Modern oils no good. Crank with plugs connected but laid on metal to test for good blue sparks across gap, not down the sides or yellow-ish. This cranking will also eject excess oil, messy but avoids a hydraulic lock if you have used too much. (unlike the later crossflow, pistons are flat so little oil is needed)

Plugs back in, check fuel getting to carb by pulling pipe (care, etc.. etc..) briefly while cranking.

Alternator should be ok, not much to service. (Belt and brushes)

Starter may have stuck brushes. Perversely, it may work at first but die with use as the carbons gap with no spring pressure. Not too hard to fettle off the engine, but watch damaging the short internal wires.

Ready to start? Before you do, check the oil light works by earthing the wire at the sender. You need to see it go out asap when it starts.

Good batteries? Try a start, 10 secs.. Nothing? drop an egg cup of petrol down the carb, choke off, full throttle, crank again.. should work if only briefly. (Nice to hear it run at all at this point)

Running? Oil light off? Charge light off? Water from exhaust? No leaks? No bad noises? No flames?:eek:

Good luck, should go well, and if engine no good, plenty of cheap replacements out there I think. Let us know.

Nick
 
NickRobinson said:
Not yet run? I would want to hear it run before spending money on it. Also, warm, the old oil will come out more completely.

Filters are cheap, oil filter if orig. car type a little messy.

To start, remove plugs and oil bores with the cheapest Wilko engine oil. Modern oils no good. Crank with plugs connected but laid on metal to test for good blue sparks across gap, not down the sides or yellow-ish. This cranking will also eject excess oil, messy but avoids a hydraulic lock if you have used too much. (unlike the later crossflow, pistons are flat so little oil is needed)

Plugs back in, check fuel getting to carb by pulling pipe (care, etc.. etc..) briefly while cranking.

Alternator should be ok, not much to service. (Belt and brushes)

Starter may have stuck brushes. Perversely, it may work at first but die with use as the carbons gap with no spring pressure. Not too hard to fettle off the engine, but watch damaging the short internal wires.

Ready to start? Before you do, check the oil light works by earthing the wire at the sender. You need to see it go out asap when it starts.

Good batteries? Try a start, 10 secs.. Nothing? drop an egg cup of petrol down the carb, choke off, full throttle, crank again.. should work if only briefly. (Nice to hear it run at all at this point)

Running? Oil light off? Charge light off? Water from exhaust? No leaks? No bad noises? No flames?:eek:

Good luck, should go well, and if engine no good, plenty of cheap replacements out there I think. Let us know.

Nick
Click to expand...
Just a thought:

Laying the plugs across the engine block in a nicely ventilated engine bay such as a car may be a safe process but doing it in the confines of a restricted and unventilated boat engine bay is a recipe for disaster as any vapours will ignite quite readily with a petrol engine, even the stale old **** in the carb will have some ignitable qualities.
 
ribrage said:
Just a thought:

Laying the plugs across the engine block in a nicely ventilated engine bay such as a car may be a safe process but doing it in the confines of a restricted and unventilated boat engine bay is a recipe for disaster as any vapours will ignite quite readily with a petrol engine, even the stale old **** in the carb will have some ignitable qualities.
Click to expand...

Good point-

N
 
Hi again I've had the s/s fuel out for pressure testing (good result) there was next to no fuel in there which has now been cleaned out and not reconnected yet.

Battery and wiring - old batt was dead so have acquired new but not connected yet as I'd be happier replacing wiring + bits and bobs.

Q. what is minimum wiring I would need to check for spark turning by hand ?

Regards sparks and fuel I have used plug light before so will find another.

Boat is of '59 - '63 vintage seized by Canal authority and left standing since - as far as I can ascertain - 2003ish

Thanks again for your replies
 
ripvan1 said:
Hi again I've had the s/s fuel out for pressure testing (good result) there was next to no fuel in there which has now been cleaned out and not reconnected yet.

Battery and wiring - old batt was dead so have acquired new but not connected yet as I'd be happier replacing wiring + bits and bobs.

Q. what is minimum wiring I would need to check for spark turning by hand ?

Regards sparks and fuel I have used plug light before so will find another.

Boat is of '59 - '63 vintage seized by Canal authority and left standing since - as far as I can ascertain - 2003ish

Thanks again for your replies
Click to expand...


Turning by hand might be quite hard-

Try removing the distributor cap and (if points closed) opening them with a screwdriver. A plug connected to the coil (centre of the distributor cap) should spark.

Nick
 
Take the rocker cover off to check that it is not all gummed up. Weakness of this engine is the oil system. The pickup is in the sump and gets bunged up. The oil pump is external but gear driven from the crank and only lubricated by splash so can seize. The little ends can wear - again poor lubrication and rattle. Early engines had poor crankshaft oil seals - just cork half moons in the crankcase and sump. These dry out and leak. Bore wear is common - usually around 40k miles in a car, but should not happen in a boat, but symptoms are blowby through the rocker cover. Rocker gear and tappet blocks tend to wear making valve clearances variable. In a car application they were +ve earth and dynamo. As already mentioned the starters are weak, partly because of just 2 hole location and shock of turning over a high compression (for the time). Although very simple to work on, parts are now hard to find. As said the 1200 version is a straight replacement, but the 1500 has a different 5 bearing crank and is taller, although many components - pistons, valve gear etc are the same.

Guess who spent his formative years "playing" with these engines!
 
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