mhardie
New member
hi all. Dose anyone know the best or easiest way to check aligment and adjust with a flexi coupling thanks mhardie
flexi coupling
- Thread starter mhardie
- Start date
Caer Urfa
Well-known member
See you had a tremendous reponse! but it is better sometimes to get no reponse than get poor advice!
One point I can tell you from experiance is beware some couplings if they have been taken apart only assemble 'one way' and it is easy to assemble them the 'wrong way'.
I learnt from assembling my flexable coupling type shown below.
If your engine is already in position and shaft assembly the end of your shaft coupling flange should 'mate up' in line easily with you flexable coupling flange when the two a brought together, ie you should not have difficulty in fitting the bolts.
Hope this might help but I do not know what type of coupling you have.
Mike
dunmor
New member
ianj99
Active member
On mine, I removed the R&D and lined the solid coupling up as accurately as possible using a feeler gauge and straight edge.
Then refitted the R&D and checked the bolts slid home, repeating this every 45degrees.
I now have a Centaflex M (Quietlife) but that's another saga....
I
BlueSkyNick
Active member
See you had a tremendous reponse! but it is better sometimes to get no reponse than get poor advice!
One point I can tell you from experiance is beware some couplings if they have been taken apart only assemble 'one way' and it is easy to assemble them the 'wrong way'.
I learnt from assembling my flexable coupling type shown below.
If your engine is already in position and shaft assembly the end of your shaft coupling flange should 'mate up' in line easily with you flexable coupling flange when the two a brought together, ie you should not have difficulty in fitting the bolts.
Hope this might help but I do not know what type of coupling you have.
Mike
Impressively clean machinery and surrounding area !
Caer Urfa
Well-known member
I go on the old theory if you look after the boat, hopefully the boat will look after you!
Mike
Poignard
Well-known member
Do tell!
Keith 66
Well-known member
It is well worth remembering that unless the shaft is located in the centre of its tube you are wasting your time trying to line the coupling up whatever type it is.
A piece of pipe sawn in half or a turned bush sawn in half locates the shaft centrally in its tube & gives you a solid starting point. When the engine is lined up remove the bush & connect the shaft seal or whatever back to the tube.
If you dont do this you stand a good chance of the shaft clouting the side of the tube itself which is not good.
A piece of pipe sawn in half or a turned bush sawn in half locates the shaft centrally in its tube & gives you a solid starting point. When the engine is lined up remove the bush & connect the shaft seal or whatever back to the tube.
If you dont do this you stand a good chance of the shaft clouting the side of the tube itself which is not good.
ianj99
Active member
Its all here:
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289109
The manufacturers replaced the broken one without quibble and this is fitted and working (so far). I'd not recommend this type of coupling on shafts larger than 1,1/4" / 31mm to avoid the risk of the same thing happening. Time will tell whether it proves reliable on a 1.5" /38mm shaft.
Ian
Last edited:
pampas
New member
withthe R&D type one bolt head is slightly domed, use this one for the witness at 90 degrees, might need a packing spacer to get a good feeler reading.
sailorman
Well-known member
check the download on the R&D site
