Fixing the new sheer strake

[lesweeks]

I have now prepared the new iroko sheer strake for my pitch pine on elm yawl. My intention is to re-use the existing holes through the frames etc. for the new fixings. My first thought was to replace the copper nails and roves in the normal way. However pulling the strake into position is difficult where I have not removed the deck. A solution would be to screw through one hole, pulling the board in, then nailing through the other and then replacing the screw with a nail. My question; Is there any reason why the strake shouldn't simply be screwed in place? Assuming that the rib is sound and not split and that the extra cost of bronze screws is ignored, is there a mechanical reason for not screwing? One advantage would be that I could do the job single handed.
Just as an after thought, sinful though it is, although I've got suitable bronze screws could I use stainless?

 

[johnlilley]

Hi There, some vessels are built using bronze screws throughout for plank fastenings, and by renowned builders, McGruer in some 55ft designs. There is a risk of splitting the frame close to the top with a screw of course whereas a nail & rove is less likely with the correct size hole/fastening.

Stainless steel can be OK for above waterline, probably A4 but can be slightly unpredictable. The later timber lifeboats did use stainless for many structural fastenings above the waterline but always bronze below.

Regards

John Lilley

 

[Seanick]

When its dark, wet, and windy, you will wish you had a big fat rove holding your plank on! Also, as time passes, and if the timber heads were to decay, then a screw becomes a questionable fastening.
I would get half the nails in, then get a mate to help rivet them up. Get him back the following day and do the other half.

If you were to go flying in a vintage plane, would you rather it had been repaired with rivets or self tappers........!!