fixed window repairs

Bav32

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Over this winter, I'm helping a friend with repairs to some fixed cabin windows.
Budgets are very important so it's going to be a DIY fix.
Basically there are leaks between the glass and the aluminium frame.
The frames are rectangular and will separate into two parts.
In the past I think I have seen comments about a seal or strip that is fitted in the recess of the frame to allow for expansion etc. Can anyone confirm if that's the case and what's it called and a source please.
Also looking for advice on the best goo to use for sealing the windows.
 
Also looking for advice on the best goo to use for sealing the windows.

Butyl tape, available from suppliers of caravan kit, and elsewhere. I've fitted several acrylic windows, some of them very large, with butyl, and never had a leak. It's non-hardening, so the windows can later be removed if necessary. Easy and clean to use. The consistency and stickiness is similar to blu-tack.
Butyl is thick and flexible enough to allow a degree of expansion movement. The temptation to tighten the fasteners as it settles should be resisted, as it will only encourage it to further extrude. Aesthetically, it's best applied so as to be concealed behind the frame.

Good for bedding/sealing deck hardware, too.
 
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Over this winter, I'm helping a friend with repairs to some fixed cabin windows.
Budgets are very important so it's going to be a DIY fix.
Basically there are leaks between the glass and the aluminium frame.
The frames are rectangular and will separate into two parts.
In the past I think I have seen comments about a seal or strip that is fitted in the recess of the frame to allow for expansion etc. Can anyone confirm if that's the case and what's it called and a source please.
Also looking for advice on the best goo to use for sealing the windows.

Seals direct or Hadlow Marine for seals and guidance. Eagle Boat Windows inject a heat cure rubber compound in but that is unlikely to be a DIY option.
 
I have a similar issue with my windows - leaks definitely seem to be between the glass and aluminium frame, not the frame to coachroof joint.

I will also (due to cost) be doing a DIY job - intending to take the windows out one by one, strip old sealant out and replace.

Will follow this thread with interest
 
Some years ago, my boat had two double glazed forward facing deckhouse windows, whose seals had gone, so they were opaque. They are in alloy frames, which I took off. I removed the glass (with a hammer), separated the frames into their two parts, and scraped out all the remaining sealant. A local glazier provided new double glazed units, and sealed them into the frames. I refitted the frames using Butyl tape, available from any glazier. IIRC the total cost was about £50.
 
I rebuilt and sealed one window on my Mirror Offshore which has the common 'h' section aluminium frames and proper glass. I think it was leaking between frame and cabin roof but I took the opportunity to do a complete refurb. I contacted seals Direct for a suitable rubber 'u' shaped I sent but they hadn't got the exact size I wanted so I used polysuphide mastic stuff. Then sealed the frame to the boat with butyl strip from a caravan shop. Complete success during my ownership but I've now sold it so don't know about long term.
I don't think the butyl tape would be ideal for sealing glass to frame.
 
I stripped the glass from the aluminium frames and reseal between using mighty frame and glazing sealant from screwfix. Bedded the frames to grp using butyl tape. Worked perfectly and very neat. Just followed the advice in the link but used a different sealant. Very messy to start but cleans up easily a few days later. Used a craft knife to cleanly cut the glass to aluminium seal one it had all gone off.

http://www.pbo.co.uk/expert-advice/renovating-boat-windows-27718
 
The reason I wanted to use a rubber section was so that it would be easy to disassemble next time. Sticking it in with PU40 has made it difficult for the next person to reseal the window. Fortunately, it's not going to be me!
I rebuilt and sealed one window on my Mirror Offshore which has the common 'h' section aluminium frames and proper glass. I think it was leaking between frame and cabin roof but I took the opportunity to do a complete refurb. I contacted seals Direct for a suitable rubber 'u' shaped I sent but they hadn't got the exact size I wanted so I used polysuphide mastic stuff. Then sealed the frame to the boat with butyl strip from a caravan shop. Complete success during my ownership but I've now sold it so don't know about long term.
I don't think the butyl tape would be ideal for sealing glass to frame.
 
Acrylics are a good option for cabin windows. Even professional window and door company and builders fail to allow for expansion and contraction of plastics. Acrylic has very high degree of thermal expansion which expands and contracts according to temperature. Acrylic expands 0.00014 /inch/degree Celsius. When sizing your window allow room for expansion. Never use screws to fasten windows to a boat as screws will hinder natural expansion of window and may cause window to buckle. Some use silicone for sealing though there has been complaints about annoying leaks 5200 on my ole tinbarge, Sikaflex 295UV or Sikaflex 296 ( windows to fiberglass) , And after all check if the window is closed tightly. Use simple measures to check your windows for air leaks http://www.landmarkquality.com/blog/home-improvement/five-air-leak-tests-to-perform-on-your-windows . Update us on your progress. Good Luck with your sealing.
 
Acrylics are a good option for cabin windows. Even professional window and door company and builders fail to allow for expansion and contraction of plastics. Acrylic has very high degree of thermal expansion which expands and contracts according to temperature. Acrylic expands 0.00014 /inch/degree Celsius. When sizing your window allow room for expansion. Never use screws to fasten windows to a boat as screws will hinder natural expansion of window and may cause window to buckle. Some use silicone for sealing though there has been complaints about annoying leaks 5200 on my ole tinbarge, Sikaflex 295UV or Sikaflex 296 ( windows to fiberglass) , And after all check if the window is closed tightly. Use simple measures to check your windows for air leaks http://www.landmarkquality.com/blog/home-improvement/five-air-leak-tests-to-perform-on-your-windows . Update us on your progress. Good Luck with your sealing.

..and put a slot into the nozzle, and some pads under the acrylic to give a high bead to accommodate the expansion/contraction..or the sealant will shear and fail..screws give more problems..If the doom mongers had ever removed a properly bedded window, they would realise screws are superfluous..
 
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