Fitting the Anchor

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x3noc

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Hello again,

where can i go to get info on how to install my anchor. I have posted before on advice on purchasing chain / anchor combo.
Thanks to all who replied!

I really want to know what to do with all the bits when i get them out of the boot of the car and take them aboard the boat. I will have an anchor and some chain.
What else do i need?
What connects the anchor to the chain for instance?

I know this is pretty pathetic but i need to start somewhere!

Thanks

Jason
 
You'll have a screw shackle between the anchor and the chain and then use another shackle between the chain and any line you decide to use. Grease each screw thread well.

Mark the chain and rope either with some bright spray paint, or something visible from the cockpit which won't foul the windlass every 10 or 20 ft so you know how much chain you have out/in.

And don't forget to secure the rope to the boat permanently. I've seen a few go overboard!
 
The most important part is the Bitter End.

That is the furthest bit of your chain/rope from the anchor and needs to be securely attached to the boat.
 
Dont use a shacke on the end you connect to your boat if its through a horser pipe the shackle may not go through!!
use nylon cord to seccure it to the boat something like 6mm and use it in loops throgh the chain and strong point several times and then tied off around the loops.
If your ever caught out somewhere and have to cut your anchor free its heck of a lot easyer to cut cord!
 
Don't forget to keep the metals similar. If you have a galvanised anchor, connect it with a galv. fitting, either shackle or swivel. If your deck fitting in the locker is stainless, use stainless. In your previous post you wanted to extend your chain with rope, this is fine but you need a chain splice so that the rope runs cleanly through the chain gypsy and through the naval/hawser pipe. If your chain gypsy takes 6mm chain, you'll need 12mm rope to grip in the chain sprockets. If your doing this then the bitter end doesn't matter as your will have loads of rope that you can cut if the worst happens. If you're going with chain only then you must have a short rope length at the boat end for crisis matters. All the points about marking etc. dead right. It really helps to know how much chian or line is out for holding and retreiving. Another little tip is that you can also attach it at the far end of the anchor above the flukes which will help you to break it out it rocky bottoms. If you do this, cable tie the chain to the shank at the normal fixing point, if the anchor fouls, the ties will snap and the anchor should release.
 
I'm interested to know why you say keep materials the same. I have a galvanised chain and was considering a stainless anchor. Would this be a mistake ??
 
I have never greased an anchor shackle and I do not think that is great advice to be honest, especially more so on a vibrating MOBO.

If you do grease the shackle do you mouse it?

At about £3 a pop for a decent galvy shackle I am more than happy to have to cut them off occasionally.
 
[ QUOTE ]
If you do grease the shackle do you mouse it?


[/ QUOTE ]
If you do mouse a shackle then use galvanised wire with a galvanised shackle, or else use a nylon cable tie.
 
x3noc,

You may find our User's Guide of interest. A section of it is general and applies to any anchor, and is the basic stuff you're looking for.

Go to our website, and select "printable information".
 
When an old sea dog gives advice, I usually take it and if I can pass it on I would. Strange things happen to mixed metals near sea water and if you don't have to mix then don't. I expect you're right on the nobility angle though. I too have often seen Stainless pieces added for effect but it also looks like the owner never intends to use it, don't you think?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Another little tip is that you can also attach it at the far end of the anchor above the flukes which will help you to break it out it rocky bottoms. If you do this, cable tie the chain to the shank at the normal fixing point, if the anchor fouls, the ties will snap and the anchor should release.

[/ QUOTE ]

Sounds a risky tactic, if I understand it right. Is there not a risk of the cable tie breaking if the boat snatches at anchor, at which point the anchor would become next to useless?
 
It has quite a few flwas for cruising boats but is often used by fishermen (who have less choice overt he ground they anchor!)

1. if the anchor is well dug in and the tide changes the tie will often snap - and then the anchor gets easily pulled out backwards as you drift of downtide

2. the tie should be replaced everytime you anchor - this is because most mobos have sharp cheeks to their anchor roller that will/could cut/damage the tie as the anchor is retrieved.

As most fishing boats launch and recover their anchors from the cockpit all the above are of no concern or difficulty..........

As it isn't guaranteed to recover all types of anchor from the most common problem - snagged on ground chains - and, for most people, anchoring in recognised anchorages should avoid getting hooked up in rocks; I believe it has little to commend it - and I used to do it all the time!
 
Wow thanks for all the advice.

Especially usefull was Craigs guide over at rocna.

I still dont really understand what if anything i attach the bitter end to. I understand that i may want to dump the anchor quickly so it should be on rope. The windlass feeds the chain to/from the chainstore (i am sure there will be nautical term for this) Do i just tie a length of rope to the end of the chain and then secure the other end of the rope to ?????. When at anchor does the stress just get transfered to the windlass, is this normal?

Many thanks

Jason
 
[ QUOTE ]
When at anchor does the stress just get transfered to the windlass, is this normal?

[/ QUOTE ]

No, make up a rope with a chain hook at one end (10 quid from a swindlery), and secure the other end to a suitable cleat, then slacken the chain. Some people, myself included, also fit a shock absorber on the rope to reduce snatch.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Is there not a risk of the cable tie breaking if the boat snatches at anchor, at which point the anchor would become next to useless?

[/ QUOTE ]

To be clear about this, I used this cable tie idea when I was fishing and agree with Duncan that in these cases, you don't always have the choice of a nice anchorage. I usually used three ties and never had them break out unintentionally.

The idea is to make it pretty secure but a definite weakest link and then when it does snap, you would be pulling the anchor up from the front end or 'Crown' I didn't replace them at each use either but of course, they are worth checking visually before you drop the anchor.

Back to the rope to chain connection. If you tie a rope onto the chain, there will be a knot which will not pass through the windlass. Likewise, if you simply splice it there will be a bump and thickening and again it will jam. The correct method is to connect with a chain splice which maintain the same thickness of rope. It will hold on the chain gypsy and run cleanly through into the chain locker. When the anchor is down this rope can be secured to an adjacent cleat but if you're not deep enough to be on rope and still chain that's when you need a chain hook on the end of a short rope strop or bridal attached across both foredeck cleats. Hope this clarifies.
 
You may find our anchoring information of interest. A section of it is general and applies to any anchor, and is the basic stuff you're looking for.

Go to :


SEE HERE
 
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