Fitting teak in the cockpit???

[Aeolus]

I'm thinking of covering the seats and horizontal surfaces in the cockpit (29' grp sloop, rear cockpit) with teak tongue & groove boards (14mm thick, 90mm wide).

I was going to create a number of panels to fit the various seats, locker lids etc. by glueing the boards together (with Balcotan) and cutting them to shape/size. Then bed them on mastic.

Will this work or will there be too much movement as the wood shrinks and expands? Will it be necessary to screw the panels to the GRP or will the mastic be enough? Anything else to be wary of?

Happy new year to all!!!

 

[reeac]

Have you considered fitting teak slats rather than complete panels? We have them in our Sadler 29 cockpit and I prefer their appearance. They give the necessary non-slip effect and protect the gelcoat if you have to tread around on them. As a guess I'd say that ours are about 40x8 mm. in cross section.

 

[Aeolus]

How did you fix them to the GRP?

 

[Robin]

K J Howells at Cobbs Quay in Poole make up panels like you want to your templates even mounted on backing ply for locker lids if needed.

See here

 

[Aeolus]

I know about K J Howells but unfortunately their estimate of over £900 was a bit more than I can afford. That's why I'm thinking of a DIY solution.

 

[alldownwind]

Aeolus, I'm a bit surprised at the quote you got from Howells - I re-did our 31-footer last year, cockpit seats and sole, for £600, with panels made by Howells. Mind you they were a lot thinner than 14mm - you sure you want them so thick?

 

[reeac]

[ QUOTE ]
How did you fix them to the GRP?

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry, I forgot to answer that point. They are fixed with countersunk screws through the teak into the GRP with teak capping discs as used for decks -done by the first owner I assume as she's an owner-completed boat.

 

[Aeolus]

Thanks

 

[Aeolus]

I was also surprised - in fact I just double-checked and it was only a few pounds less than £1000. There are 8 separate panels, with some awkward shapes so that is probably why.

 

[beluga]

You do not need to screw through the teak and plug, you can hold the teak in position until it dries by using big penny washers and screwing beween square edged planks using the screw as the spacer. The planks are stuck down with epoxy and filled with sikoflex. It is not that difficult to get a superb and lasting professional finish although it is a lot of work and you must follow some basic rules. The beauty is that it will last a lot longer then plugged teak and their are no plugs to leak. If you are interested i can advise as i have laid about 40 square meters of it.