Fitting rudder while afloat

[pugwash]

Here's a challenge in practical seamanship. If the Cutty Sark can re-attach her rudder in the open sea (by sailing backwards on to it, I seem to remember) then I should be able to do something similarly noteworthy.
My Holman 31 ketch has the usual transom-hung rudder and the transom is raked. My boatyard took her out of the mud a couple of weeks ago and put her on her mooring but forgot to fit the rudder. Now the boatyard tractor has broken down, blocking the slip. If I am to get any sailing in over Easter I have to refit the rudder while afloat. I'm on the Tamar and could let her dry out against a post then fit the rudder but for vareious reasons the timing is all wrong and the weekend tides are enormous. I'd prefer to think of something clever.
The rudder is a big chunk of timber that I can barely lift and has a lot of inherent buoyancy. I figured that maybe I could sling a light line around the lower part of the rudder blade and attach to it just enough chain to create neutral buoyancy. Then I could maybe work it into a vertical position and jiggle the pins into the pintles. Could this work or is it wishful thinking?
Any ideas would be welcome.

 

[cindersailor]

Thinking about this problem it seems to me that the main problem to overcome once you have sorted out the boyancy issue will be how to get its angle in the water to match that of the transom. I would suggest lashing the top at the correct height to the pushpit or the quarter cleats to keep it in one place and pulling on two lines attached to the foot lead to midships on each side to give the necessary angle. Depending on how you attach the lines to the foot of the rudder it may be possible to just pull them through once the job is done. Otherwise a mask and snorkel will be required.

 

[supermalc]

While knowing nothing about rudders on larger yachts, I have removed mine on my 20ft clinker several times, not least when I broke the main blade in the ice before Christmas. Yes I have a keyside to work from, but also have lifted it off on with the stern towards the river.

Would it be possible to fit it with the help of another boat. Maybe use a mast stay? or another length of wood or pole to use as a 'crane' then back your boat up to the rudder.

I have made a new shaft, and changed it while in the water. After using a dingy to locate the end, and start re-entring, I was faced with knocking it in with a hammer. I could not get the bow low enough, by pulling down with a strap to get the shaft to clear the water, so I turned the boat round, and holding the shaft parallel with a rope around the prop, I pulled the boat gently to the dockside, so pushing the shaft in. The last few inches I tapped home with a hammer tied to a piece of wood to make the hammer-shaft longer.

Are there any problems with attaching the lines for steering, after the rudder is fitted, and are the hinges (pintles) fastened in some way. The weight of mine holds it down. I had a lot of wear, which I took up with some spacers made from household overflow pipe. The only problem now is they are a tight fit until they get worn a little, so if I have to remove it again, it will need a strong pull from above.

 

[pugwash]

Thanks for both replies. The rudder takes a hefty tiller that simply slots in and is held with a wedge, so I could use that as a lever with which to align the bottom of the rudder with the pintles. Once in, it'll be held by its own weight. But it's going to be a sweat, I can see that!

 

[tcm]

Re: beer required.

i wd choose a sunny weekend, possibly good friday coming. Make sure the beer is cold, and then ask lots of strangers to help with this not-very timeconsuming yet very boaty operation. Yep, need a line to control the angle, and then beers all round.

 

[steve28]

When i did mine on the pontoon, the biggest problem was the fact the rudder was always trying to float up and i didnt have the strength to push it down and align it on the pintals.
i did it in the end but not easy. mine has in inverse transom and a wooden rudder and stock


steve

 

[Lakesailor]

Would an "A" frame attached to the pusphit stanchions at deck level, sort of like davits, help?
You could use you main halyard or topping lift to it's top to control the angle of the frame and attach the rudder to it's top with a seperate strop.
That way you could adjust the longtitudional position and then lift or lower the blade seperately.
The rudder would then be easier to jiggle into position.

 

[trouville]

What you have all forgoten is that wood floats. I took my rudder off my East anglian sloop when i had one years ago, replacing it was not easy but if you weight it a bit and have a diver down no problem.

If not i might be sods law it just wont go.

Good luck!! it took me a full weekend to get mine on and i almost gave up.

 

[Lakesailor]

[ QUOTE ]
What you have all forgoten is that wood floats.

[/ QUOTE ]

I was asuming that Pugwash had sorted that already he did say " The rudder is a big chunk of timber that I can barely lift and has a lot of inherent buoyancy. I figured that maybe I could sling a light line around the lower part of the rudder blade and attach to it just enough chain to create neutral buoyancy. "

 

[pugwash]

Quite right and thanks for pointing that out. Problem is that the buoyancy effect will increase the deeper the rudder goes, so getting the weight right will take some finesse. I like the idea of a sunny Good Friday and lots of cold beers. Will work on that principle!

 

[tome]

Did this a few weeks ago on a friends 28ft boat. Just 2 of us. I rigged a strop to the backstay with a handybilly and used this to lower the rudder with friend on the transom ladder pushing it down into the water.

The 3 pintles are joined by a rod going through all and the rudder. We used a bolt as a temporary locator on the bottom pintle and it was easy after this. Never did get the cold beer.

 

[simonfraser]

surely by the time you have sorted it all out you could have dried her out somewhere ?????
takes a day at the most, and no hassle . . . .