Fitting perspex windows

martyr

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I am trying to replace the perspex windows on my Foxcub. Has anyone refitted perspex into the rubber seal, and how did you do it? Any tips.

I have fitted the rubber seal into the window frame, and am now stuggling to fit the perspex window into what seems like too small and tight an aperture! <span style="color:blue"> </span>
 
If it is anything like fitting a discovery rear window back in I do not envy you.

We put the seal on the glass then into the hole.

We used cord in the rubber groove to pull the lip out over the metal edge. So basically one long piece of cord all the way around the outside of the rubber and the glass and then slide in the side that the cord overlaps on first ... Then push glass and pull cord (repeat until exhausted or success)

We could not use and thing to make it slip easier as we had enough difficulty holding it up. Take care not to use any rubber unfriendly stuff.
 
Obtain some cord not too thin 3mm or so, enough to go round window plus a couple of feet - put seal on perspex - lubricate seal slot with a drop of washing up liquid not too much ie lube it then wipe nearly clean - wrap cord round window in seal groove , loose ends crossing at the bottom - now it's 2 people, 1in 1 out - offer up window from outside locating the seal in place at the bottom with cord inside - with the outer person pushing the window in pull one end of the cord at right angles to window so pulling the inner edge of the seal inside. No excessive force should be needed just be firm and go slow. With the cord it may help to also move it side to side as you pull. Whilst pulling on one end hold the other securely. alternate between sides every few inches. As you approach the top push the window down to ensure bottom is right home so making the top easier. Once in flex in and out to seat window and leave it lined up. That's how I do it. Once you get the seal locating all will become clear. Good luck,
 
I built my Seawych and have since renewed the windows. Neither the original building instructions nor the instructions from Cherry's Chandlery who supplied the new rubber advocated the cord method.

Ensure that you have the correct rubber that will accommodate the radius of the corners as well as the thicknesses of both grp and window. Also ensure that the opening is the correct amount oversize that is 1/16" more than the thickness of the centre web of the rubber (which in my case was a total of 5/16" all round)

Cut the rubber overlenth by 1cm per metre. Fit it round the opening with the join centre top ensuring it is pushed well into the corners and force the ends together.

Without excessive force push as much of the window into the rubber as possible starting at one corner then progressively ease the rest into position while lifting the rubber lip over the edge of the window either with the special tool or the handle of a teaspoon. Finally push the whole pane into place. It helps with someone inside to push it back if you push too far. Lubrication with a little washing up liquid helps. Some people like to put a dab of sealant on the ends but if it is all done correctly no sealant is needed anywhere.

With the Seawych we were advised to start with the easier large windows but that does not apply to the Foxcub, you've only got little ones! I don't know how curved your cabin sides are but it is essential for the small windows on the Seawych to be preformed to match that curvature.

The filler strip is best not fitted on a cold day. Start fitting that well away from the join in the rubber (eg centre bottom) . Insert the special tool, or a home made one, into the groove feed the fillerstrip in from the front and work round the window without stretching it. The pros will literally zip round in seconds but it will take you a bit longer. Cut the strip 12mm overlength and force the ends together into the groove.

It is not an easy job for the unpractised and although there are times when a bit of help is useful it is one of those jobs which becomes bl**dy nearly impossible with SWMBO helping! The second window is easier than the first.

Too late now probably but consider windows that are oversize that can be bolted on!
 
Since you are having difficulty, check that the rubber seal is the correct size. They are made in a variety of combinations and you need to ensure that it not only matches the thickness of your fibreglass but also the thickness of your perspex. Also, check that the rubber is suitable for the radius of any corners you have - they vary on this as well. See here .

Assuming the rubber is correct, is there a slight curve to the opening? I have fitted windows to a curve and it was quite difficult but over the years the perspex automatically bent to fit the shape!

When you come to fit the rubber infill strip, you really need the special tool.


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As the tool seemed excessively expensive for what it was, I tried to make my own and failed miserably. I had to buy the tool in the end.

I seemed to have repeated some of what VicS has said. Never mind. I agree with him! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
As the tool seemed excessively expensive for what it was, I tried to make my own and failed miserably. I had to buy the tool in the end

[/ QUOTE ] I made my own the first time round with a bit of stout wire (coathanger) Araldited into file handle. I kept it up short for rigidity. Second time round I bought one because I couldn't find the old one, although I did eventually. I marginally prefered my home made one! A deluxe version has a roller as well which presses the strip into place as you go.

Glad you agree with what I said /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Many thanks for all the help from everyone. All I need to do now is to finish the job!
I couldn't get the window all the way in, but I think that is because the laminate GRP is coming away in a couple of places on the cabin window rim, making it wider in these few inches than the rest of the rim. So next step is to clean out the gaps and clamp together with resin, and try again?
 
One tip that no one seems to have mentioned - or if they did, I missed it (Blame last night's rather pleasant bottle of white!):

When you cut perspex, it leaves a sharp edge on both sides & if you used a jigsaw, the edges are probably a bit wobbly. Take a plane or some aluminium oxide paper round a block of wood and smooth the edge all round, then round off the edges of the edges (if you see what I mean!). That'll make the perspex less likely to snag the rubber.
 
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