Fitting new rope clutches

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Dutch01527

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I have a 1984 Dehler which has what looks like the original rope clutches either side of the companion way hatch. They are prone to slipping under load occasionally and I would like to replace them. You can just about see the clutches forward of the winch in this photo: https://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives/dehler-duetta-86as/r381204-binnacle.jpg

The Dehler has a molded plastic roof covering the whole saloon and there is no obvious way of gaining access behind. I do not want to cut holes in it. https://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives/dehler-duetta-86as/r381204-saloon-wa.jpg

Does anyone know if there is likely to be a metal plate under the rope clutches that I could tap a bolt into?

Any other ideas on how to fit new clutches securely?
 
If you try to remove one or two of the existing bolts, it will give you an idea as to whether they have nuts underneath or whether they're tapped into a captive plate.
 
I've had an '87 and '91 D34s. They had captive (glassed-in) plates for both clutches and winches.

The clutches are Easylock, for which you can source spares in UK from Nauquip 01489 885336.

Hope this helps
 
Thanks.

I did not want to remove a bolt just in case there was a bolt underneath that would be lost.

It looks like there is a good chance there may be a glassed in plate which would be great.
 
Good to hear the OP's happy outcome, but for anyone who wants to remove/replace bolted-in deck hardware and has a moulded headlining, the standard practice is to cut a hole, and when the job is done, attach with screws an access panel made of veneered ply. Looking at the OP's photo made me think that a more discreet solution would be to use a piece of white plastic, such as an offcut from the material used for making modern fascias and soffits. The screw heads could be covered using one of the many types of screw head covers available in the domestic hardware market.
 
If removal is difficult then :
Consider a trapped shim beneath the line involved.Just trialling one in 3mm x15mm wide aluminium strip with ends turned down over the end of the baseplate.Anodised upper surface, roughened lower face. Works already without bedding on dabs Sikaflex to locate.Line is gripped by the cam teeth rather than the base.
Over a period the lines get flattened by the jammer ; can they be reversed or are they due for renewal ?
If it's a later Easylock with the plastic cam lever then these have two mounting holes.Depending on the present setting the other hole may reduce the gap.The axle pin can be removed by taking off the circlip unless it's the inner of several singles and there is little gap.
 
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I've just started exactly the same on my 2002 Southerly 115 this week!

I wanted to add a clutch but had been a bit freaked out by what it involved, but then the side plate on the spinlock triple fractured so I realised I had to remove the old one to replace the side plates ..

It was simpler than I expected, as I removed the screws holding the clutch down i realised they were rotating a nut underneath, so I took a deep breath and started to remove the headlining... it was MUCH easier than I feared, as it was held in place by a wooden strip and self tapping screws.

Once I did that, I realised that there was no backing plate under the GRP, just 1 " diameter SS washers so I got the old clutch off easily enough.

I have the new side panels and an extra clutch ordered today, and will put it all back together next week.

So far so good, I am glad I didn't assume there was a backing plate behind the clutch and just try and add the new one, and relieved that teh design of my boat allowed for easy removal of the headlining to access the bottom of the coach house roof
 
I replaced mine that were held by nuts from below. As above, I was able to remove the head-lining and fit extra bolts as I increased from three to five clutches each side. Access was difficult due to the head-lining mounting structure but achievable in the end. It turned out the glassed-in wooden backing plates were large enough for the extra clutches.
 
Hoolie said:
Won't help with a wood backing plate though :(
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But it would not be screwed into wood. It is either through bolted or screwed into aluminium. my money is on the latter as Dehler were one of the pioneers of this method as it allows (among other benefits) for a one piece moulded headliner to be used as access to nuts is not needed. Expect the plate will be larger than the existing clutch to allow for additional clutches to be fitted.
 
Tranona said:
But it would not be screwed into wood. It is either through bolted or screwed into aluminium. my money is on the latter as Dehler were one of the pioneers of this method as it allows (among other benefits) for a one piece moulded headliner to be used as access to nuts is not needed. Expect the plate will be larger than the existing clutch to allow for additional clutches to be fitted.
Click to expand...

+1
 
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