Fitting a forestay

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saltyrob

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Hi Folks,

I will be fitting new standing rigging this winter and using the old rigging to match up the new stuff. Our roller reefing is an older Hood Seafurl system which works a treat, looking through the instructions, installing the new forestay will involve using a norseman cone to secure the wire .Is this a job best left to a rigger or is it something that can be done by a careful diy er.


Many thanks as always for your advise


Rob
 
saltyrob said:
Hi Folks,

I will be fitting new standing rigging this winter and using the old rigging to match up the new stuff. Our roller reefing is an older Hood Seafurl system which works a treat, looking through the instructions, installing the new forestay will involve using a norseman cone to secure the wire .Is this a job best left to a rigger or is it something that can be done by a careful diy er.


Many thanks as always for your advise


Rob
Click to expand...
i would say yes AND DONT LET HIM DISMANTLE IT. the forestay can be replaced by pushing & twisting at the same time, this enables the wire to spin its self through the jointing spigot.
I have first hank knowledge of incompetent riggers & Hood Sea Furl
 
It can be done DIY, but seeing as the forestay is the primary highest loaded bit I don't think you should use it for practice, best left to a rigger; I suppose if he's a good sort he could demonstrate it to you for next time ?
 
Did mine myself. 39' boat, 8mm forestay. Been out in 40 knots since then more than once. Lifted the furling drum and inspected the terminal after the second blow. Appears to not have moved at all.

Read the instructions several times. Measure 3 or 4 times, verify, cut once. Use only quality tools ( cutters, spanners etc )
 
nimbusgb said:
Did mine myself. 39' boat, 8mm forestay. Been out in 40 knots since then more than once. Lifted the furling drum and inspected the terminal after the second blow. Appears to not have moved at all.

Read the instructions several times. Measure 3 or 4 times, verify, cut once. Use only quality tools ( cutters, spanners etc )
Click to expand...
Hood Seafurl ????
did you disassemble it
 
Use a Stalok terminal not a Norseman.The Stalok is rated to a higher breaking load than the wire's ,the Norseman isn't.
If I had to replace the wire without dismantling the furler I would TIG weld the end of the old wire to the end of the new one (two or three tack welds will do) and then pull the wire through.There usually are plastic bearing blocks inside and it will be almost impossible to hit the holes with the wire by pushing it.
 
I fitted a new forestay last winter and although it called for a bit of prep and care it is very satisfying to have done .

I ordered a new 8mm wire ( Dyform ) and sta lok terminal with a Dyform cone ,
slacked off the aft and cap shrouds then lashed the rig using the spinnaker and jib halyard, forward to support the mast .
this calls for a lot of tension , but use the winches for this .

Then VERY carefully measured the length before cutting the new wire and slid on the foils then attached the Sta lok terminal ( Sta lok videos were helpful ).

I actually wanted to have more adjustment of rake so made new chainplates in 4 mm s/s plate in combination with the bottle screw .

then re fitted the top swivel and drum .
I had 2 pals help pull the whole lot up the mast , where I was waiting to fit the clevis pin back onto the mast .

The whole operation was successful and has been out in allsorts of weather and sea all summer and I am very happy with it being new , the original was 13 ears old and showing signs of wear around the furling drum .

Living on a Greek island makes for creativity !
 
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