fitting a calorifier

[dodsworth]

Iam fitting a calorifier to a beta 20 hp the heating coil of which will be above the level of the engine header tank. How do i fill the system without the coolent pouring out of the header tank when i remove the header tank cap to check the level?

 

[LeytonC]

Couple of ball valves? or try to install below the level of the header tank - i presume the instructions mention above the engine installation is ok?

 

[Rick]

At the risk of sounding condescending - they call it a header tank because it's at the head of the system. You need to either install below header, or relocate header to meet your requriements. I can't see a practical way of installing as you suggest.

 

[Strathglass]

Assuming that because of space constraints the calorifier can only be fitted at this higher level. There are several things you must do.

Remove and block off the feed to your existing reservoir.

When you install the new calorifier add a 'T' piece at the highest point to the plumbing between the engine take off points and the calorifier.

Feed your reservoir tank to this 'T' piece. Make certain that the run from the calorifier to the 'T' piece only goes up. If you are using a horizontal calorifier then tilt it slightly to raise one connection higher than the other and put your 'T' piece near that feed point.

Your reservoir now becomes the bleed point and fill point for your cooling system.

You must make sure that the pipe from the 'T' piece only runs down to the engine and the calorifier. Also the other pipe between the engine and the calorifier must not sag down on it's path between the two.

The reason for shifting the filler is to ensure that air is not trapped between the engine and the calorifier and to enable you to fill the system.

Iain

 

[cliff]

I had a Beta 20 on one of my previous boats. It was never a problem having the calorifier above the header tank. For the water to drain out of the calorifier air must get in to replace the water (nature abhors a vacuum) so if no air can get in the water cannot drain out. the configuration of the heat exchanger and header tank prevented air getting in. The only problem is/was initially filling the system. this can be easily done by fitting a T piece in the highest point and filling through it. Fit a ball valve to the upright of the "T". The alternative is to run the engine at ½~¾ revs while topping up the header tank. If you have connected the claorifier up correctly the coolant circulation pump will have enough pressure to force the coolant through the calorifier pushing out the air in the process. Do ensure the coolant is a 50% glycol mix.

The feed for the calorifier should be taken from the rear starboard side of the head and the return fed to the rear port side of the exchanger/header. This arrangement ensures the coolant is pumped round the calorifier when the stat is closed and acts as a bypass. This arrangement also prevents air getting into the circuit unless you are really low on coolant as both inlet and outlet are below the header filler level.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[Danny]

You might find the notes here helpful. I installed a calorifier which is significantly higher than the header tank and was prepared to fit a blanking cap and additional header tank but found that the coolant flow is enough to 'sweep' any air from the heating coil back to the engine's header tank. Initially filling the coil was no problem: I just ran the engine at about 1000 rpm and kept the coolant topped up as the air in the coil was displaced.

 

[MedMan]

My calorifier is above the original header tank on my engine. I fiited an external header tank in the same locker as the calorifier and just a little higher. Volvo make one expecially for the purpose or get one from a car spares shop. Many car engines are fitted with separate header tanks.

 

[cliff]

Why bother with an extra header tank? Cadenza will not need one.
--------------------

"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[steveallan]

Two years ago I carried the same procedure used by Danny and have had no problems. Water is hot engine temp is spot on.

 

[GeraldKen]

You need to use a blanking cap on the current filler and take a pipe from the overflow to a header tank fitted with your original pressure cap. The header tank should be fitted above the coil in your calorifier. Check out C.Warm.