Fischer Panda Generators ? 3.8 to 5 KW ??

I have a 3.8kw panda circa 1995. Only problem I have had is that the battery connections needed replacing (threaded brass rod). Output voltage is 220V ac old TV didn't like it but new LCDs work fine. Will run Microwave, laptops etc quite happily. I use it with 2 electric fan heaters instead of hopeless eberspacher. Boat heats up very quick and charges batteries as well.
 
I've sailed on two boats with Panda gensets used to power the aircon: both were troublesome, but neither were very new, or had a known maintenance history.
 
Lots of post on this over the last 12 months, especially on Fischer Panda and reliability- try the search engine.

I'm a great advocate of having a 12volt genny and inverting to 240 volts. DC generators run at the speed needed by the load, unlike AC which always run at either 1500rpm or 3000rpm, so DC gennys are quieter and should last longer and use less diesel. With a big battery bank and an inverter you get AC at any time without the need to start a genny.

We have 1050 Ah house battery bank, 2.5KVA inverter and a 4KVA Fischer Panda DC genny which charges at up to 280 Amps.
 
I have a 6kVA FP which has mostly been fine. I was a bit perturbed to learn that the alternator windings cooling housing is also a sacrificial anode and the book says something along the lines of "if it is leaking, check it carefully" (well, you would, wouldn't you?). So far there are no leaks and it starts first time - so I suppose I have nothing to grumble about. Just worried about that anode!!
 
The only problems I have had have been to replace the exhaust manifold, and a new water inlet block which doubles as the sacrificial anode.
 
Mine is OK at the moment but where is the sense in making part of the generator structure the anode? Couldn't they have made the anode readily checkable, replaceable and cheap? A poster on this board (Englander?) had trouble with his FP due to corrosion.
 
Must say I would not have waited until it leaked had I realised however, I managed a temporary repair using the two part putty that turns solid on mixing ( sorry, forgotten name)
 
It is seriously difficult to get at in my installation. I'm in danger of causing more damage than I solve. What I don't know is whether these generators fizz away internally regardless of external factors or whether provided you have minimal stray currents the anode erosion is minimal. I just don't want to take off the plate and find it impossible to get back on again only to find there was no need and if the consequences are only that I need to dry the bilge, close the seacocks and replace the anode if it does need replacing.

Hard to call. It's not as though the genny is a life-safety piece of kit; it this was our main engine I would look at it differently. It would be nice to have an easy way to check and anyone buying a new generator should ask all the details before buying.
 
BUT, has anyone one they want to SELL ME lol.... siezed / corroded anodes accepted...

.......................................................................................
Sorry....side tracked from original thread. I know where there was one but that was in early November. Will check in next few days and if still available will send details.
 
I Have 1

Hi I have one used but factory reconditioned a few years ago nil hours since. still in crate 3.8 kva Fisha panda. what are they worth. Near Southampton
 
I've got the 4kVA raw-water cooled one and it's been fine since I bought the boat in 2009. Previous owner has replaced the inlet water corrosion block (at approx 10 years old) as well as the water pump (not sure why). There's also been a change made to the cooling system to bypass the thermostat, forcing all cooling water through the engine - the service information I got says that FP gave advice to do this, but I'm not sure what problem this was trying to fix. It's a great accessory to have on the boat as it allows endless hot water, showers, battery charging and fan heating and is pretty quiet external to the boat. Onboard, the noise is not too bad, but not very restful to have running.
 
The anode is only an anode on the total and partially raw water cooled versions. The pure fresh water heat exchanger cooled ones are fine, they have lots of other problems though and I've had a few, right now it's running fine. But I do have an air cooled Mase installed as a back up. Noisy wee devil though!!
 
Fischer (fisher) Panda AGT4000 Diesel Generator

hi Had a buyer look into my generator. Looks like mine is an AGT 4000 which means it is not 240v but 12v 280amps. Just what i was looking for, for a previous yacht. as i spent 5 hous a day charging batteries and nearly ran out of fuel on a passage. 280amps is a very decent battery charger. and its still available.Photos at web. boating-and-sailing.com
 
captainslarty said:
Have u used one ?, what are your thoughts, observations, comments etc ?

Also, do u know of one for sale ??.. or....want to sell one !!!... if so, pm me.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


Joe n Jayne
Click to expand...

Hi. There is one on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fisher-Panda-...aultDomain_3&hash=item27bb34970b#ht_500wt_922
Nothing to do with me. It has been listed a couple of times and I've not seen any bids so it would appear the price is a bit steep, but might be worth an offer?
 
sailinglegend420 said:
Lots of post on this over the last 12 months, especially on Fischer Panda and reliability- try the search engine.

I'm a great advocate of having a 12volt genny and inverting to 240 volts. DC generators run at the speed needed by the load, unlike AC which always run at either 1500rpm or 3000rpm, so DC gennys are quieter and should last longer and use less diesel. With a big battery bank and an inverter you get AC at any time without the need to start a genny.

We have 1050 Ah house battery bank, 2.5KVA inverter and a 4KVA Fischer Panda DC genny which charges at up to 280 Amps.
Click to expand...

Interesting comment this. I have to replace the totally knackered Paguro 3000 genny in my boat shortly. I am thinking of a DC genny and inverter as you describe. I have 660ah domestic battery bank, and would put in a hefty pure sine wave inverter.
The question I have is if I want to install a water maker, decent freezer and AC for a trip to warmer climes, is a DC system the way to go or am I better to stay with AC for this?
 
I spoke to FP last week their recommendation is a 240v one for cruising boats, the dc ones seem to be for lifeboats and such like, lots of 12v and no mains. Well thats what they recommended to me.
 
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