Firming up cleats on a wooden mast

[prv]

I have a wooden mast (Sitka spruce, as far as I know) with a pair of metal halyard cleats fastened to the sides. If I remember rightly, they're fixed with fair-sized coach screws.

Last season, I noticed that at least one of the cleats is slightly loose. It wobbles a little as I sweat up the halyard. I'm worried that this movement opens up a route for water to get under the cleat and down the screw holes into the heart of the mast.

This is my first year of looking after wooden spars. How should I proceed?

Pete

 

[Tranona]

Determine whether it is the screws loose in the wood or the holes worn in the cleats - it could be either or both. You might find that hardening them up with a good size driver solves the problem.

 

[Woodlouse]

Take them off. Check that the wood around the holes is still sound, then plug the holes before sticking the cleats down again, making sure you bed them down well.

 

[prv]

You might find that hardening them up with a good size driver solves the problem.

Would be nice. But I suspect the only remaining seal is the varnish that the previous owner applied liberally including up onto the side of the cleat. Since it's moved, that joint has obviously cracked.

If it were a fitting on fibreglass, I'd take it up and refit it onto fresh sikaflex. But I have no experience of wood and while I suspect sikaflex isn't the right answer, I don't know what is.

Pete

 

[prv]

Take them off. Check that the wood around the holes is still sound, then plug the holes before sticking the cleats down again, making sure you bed them down well.

Plug with what?

Put the cleat back in the same place (into the plugs)? There's not really much alternative.

Bed down on what?

I am a complete newbie when it comes to boat woodwork - more used to fibreglass!

Cheers,

Pete

 

[Woodlouse]

Well, if the wood is not soft and compost like then glue in wooden plugs of spruce (though you could use douglas fir, but it's best to match the timber) then reattach the cleats in the same place bedding down with sikaflex or similar.

There's no great secret to wood, but it is important to bed things down properly as once rain water gets into screw holes at the likes then rot will start.

 

[prv]

I don't have any ready source of spruce (or any other "boatbuilding" timber) so I might start by seeing if just tightening up the screws will be enough. It's only a little movement - I'm worried about sealants cracking and letting water in, not about the cleats actually coming adrift. If that's OK I'll take them off to re-apply sealant - you say sikaflex is ok?

If I were to plug and re-drill, what would I best glue the plugs in with? I have epoxy to hand, but no wood glues at present.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[Woodlouse]

You can try just tightening up the screws without plugging, but I would still take the cleats off and re-bed them. Sikaflex is fine, you could also use silicone or any sealant really, but some don't react to varnish too well.

So yes, you don't have to plug straight away (epoxy is fine for when you do) but it is the best way to ensure a tight fit for the screws if they've been wobbling about in the holes.

Anyway, take the cleats off first so you know what's going on underneath. If it is rot it's better to find out sooner rather than later.

 

[prv]

Yep - I'll have a bash this weekend unless it's wet.

Thanks for your help.

Pete

 

[Tranona]

I don't have any ready source of spruce (or any other "boatbuilding" timber) so I might start by seeing if just tightening up the screws will be enough. It's only a little movement - I'm worried about sealants cracking and letting water in, not about the cleats actually coming adrift. If that's OK I'll take them off to re-apply sealant - you say sikaflex is ok?

If I were to plug and re-drill, what would I best glue the plugs in with? I have epoxy to hand, but no wood glues at present.

Cheers,

Pete

The most convenient glue is polyurethane one pot such as Balcotan. Unlikely to need re-plugging however. As suggested just remove and reseal. I would normally use a polysulphide, but Sika would also be fine.

 

[dur]

Sikaflex is fine, you could also use silicone or any sealant really, but some don't react to varnish too well.

Probably best to stay well clear of silicone. Very well clear. Good for bodging houses. Nasty on a boat. (IMHO of course )

 

[Woodlouse]

Probably best to stay well clear of silicone. Very well clear. Good for bodging houses. Nasty on a boat. (IMHO of course )

Aye, I don't use it often to be honest. Only when I've got nothing else to hand and I know I'll be removing what ever I'm sticking down at some later date.

 

[oldsaltoz]

Most on here know I have spent years finding ways to replace and exposed timber on my boat.

However a timber mast poses a rather larger problem and replacing it with Alloy will not solve all your problems.

Given the problem you have I would mix a teaspoon of epoxy resin and add a quarter of a teaspoon of Methylated spirits, mix well, mask up the hole/s so the tape forms a frogs mouth and tip it in, it will soak into the timber making it watertight and stronger.

When this cures add a mix of epoxy and micro fibres and work it right in to exclude any air, bit of tape to stop it running out and let it cure.

Next drill a hole the size of the shank on the crews, that way the thread will bite into the epoxy and stay tight as no water can get in and not rot.

PS. Enen though the fitting will cover the epoxy I would still add a little dab of paint to protect it from UV rays.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[wrr]

Epoxy and Machine screws

I would second the use of epoxy with high density fillers. Drill out the hole, removing any soft or splintered wood. Prime with epoxy without fillers and then fill. Either drive self-tapping screws in while the epoxy-filler mix is still soft-ish or allow to harden and drill and thread with a tap. Moisten the threads of your machine screws with epoxy for a permanent fix. Apply a little mastic to the base of the cleat and screw into the epoxy plugs. I have fixed winches to masts in this way, without no discernable movement after ten or more years.