Finish to solid teak coach-house sides - advise pl's.

[Scotty_Tradewind]

I'm still not sure what to apply to the sides of my teak coach-house/doghouse.

I'm more convinced that to oil it rather than varnish or epoxy is the way I'll go.

The main problem with teak being that it has its own oils and to remove the natural oil from the surface with acetone or similar takes away its natural waterproof properties. Sun, saltwater, frost all take its toll on a finish and it can crack or seperate from the wood if too inflexible.

There is probably a fair bit of movement in a boat that will also take its toll on a hard finish such as an epoxy, although this has been recommended..........

http://www.resoltech.com/markets.php?id_mot=164
http://www.resoltech.com/IMG/pdf/DS-1010_V2.pdf

Any comments on it please?

 

[Poignard]

I'm still not sure what to apply to the sides of my teak coach-house/doghouse.

I'm more convinced that to oil it rather than varnish or epoxy is the way I'll go.

The main problem with teak being that it has its own oils and to remove the natural oil from the surface with acetone or similar takes away its natural waterproof properties. Sun, saltwater, frost all take its toll on a finish and it can crack or seperate from the wood if too inflexible.

There is probably a fair bit of movement in a boat that will also take its toll on a hard finish such as an epoxy, although this has been recommended..........

http://www.resoltech.com/markets.php?id_mot=164
http://www.resoltech.com/IMG/pdf/DS-1010_V2.pdf

Any comments on it please?

I think you have reached your own conclusion - oil.

If you did go for epoxy, and ever needed to remove it, you would have a lot of work to get it off. Also, what is good at keeping moisture out is also good at keeping it in!

Have you considered Le Tonkinois, which seems to be somehere between oild and varnish. Easy to apply, tolerant of neglect, good appearance, easy to clean up afterwards, not as runny as oils.

 

[Scotty_Tradewind]

Hi Parsival..

yes I think you'r right my mind is nearly made up but as it gets nearer to the work being done I'm still open to advice.

I agree with your suggestion to use Le Tonkinois too having had very good experience of it in the past..

thanks
S.

 

[Wansworth]

Doynes of ocean cruising the Pardys asserted that teak shoud be left bare on Horizontale surfaces and could be varnished on vertical ones.Varnsh brings out the colour of the wood.I had a boat with teak cabin sidesand applies varnish,not a lot of work and gives you something to do in some pacific atoll

 

[Pleiades]

Cetol Filter 7 Plus?

Hi Scotty, have tried much gloop on Pleiades' woodwork. My dog house is plastic so less to attend to there but I have teak decks - those I leave with nought on, just a wash with Pollycell mould killer twice a year and lots of salt water across the deck does fine. The cockpit capping rail and the capping toe rail around the deck does however definitely need something as in the winter when I left that bare I found that ice tends to open up tiny cracks on the bare wood, particularly around the winches where you don't want cracks. So I think your teak doggie do dah will need something to seal it. Oil I have always found next to useless - attracts dirt, goes black and needs constant re-oiling. Burgess I found to be horrible - urgh, Deks Olje rather better, nice to apply but does go black and only lasts about two years with umpteen coats. I would not even consider a conventional hard varnish - far too brittle and once water gets into the tiniest crack it quickly deteriorates. Teak Wonder sealer is quite good but has an odd yellow colour which may not suit and only lasts about two years. (Think they have reduced the yellow in recent stuff but not tried it.)Best for me has been Sikkens Cetol Filter7 Plus - a softish woodsealer/stain which is meant to last 5 years exposed to sunlight - nothing in my experience resists UV light deterioration as well. It does not have a hard surface but I have actually done all the wood work on my Tinker Tramp -transom, seat etc with it - looks great. Very easy to touch up local damage. I use the pine tint - the other colours end up looking very dark.
Sorry don't have a decent pickie but this is the effect on the rail.

The next pickie shows Teak Wonder on the deck rail (yellowish colour aft ), Decks Olje on the stern locker lid (umpteen coats but needing attention) and Cetol Filter 7 Plus on the cockpit rail - much the best.

Cheers,
Robin
Pleiades of Birdham
MXWQ5

 

[ripvan1]

I had 2 new hatches and and sliding companionway hatch made up (ply then teak decking) and got the builder to spray them with Coelan (after using correct primer). Lovely finish boat was in warmer climes (southern spain) 3/4 years and only started getting tatty after 5.

You don't need to strip completely and redo but can fair in, prime and roller or spray it back on - expensive but worth it IMO

It forms a plastic-like skin and so is flexible with weather extremes.

 

[alahol2]

Another vote for Cetol Filter 7 (Pine/Deal colour). I haven't got a lot of woodwork but it is by far the easiest to apply and keep good looking. Another plus is that it is very easy to remove if you ever need to. Only real minus point is that is fairly soft.

 

[Scotty_Tradewind]

thanks all
food for thought
S.

 

[npf1]

Have you considered Semco? IMHO, it looks good, not oily, takes literally minutes to apply, looks good/works for 8+ months and then it's very easy wipe some more on.

It took me about 2 hrs to do about approx 110 ft of cap rail (about 10 inches across sides and top), two cockpit floorboards, two hatches and the bowprit grating. That was back in March, it's still looking reasonable but will need doing again soon. I've been quite impressed with it.

 

[Scotty_Tradewind]

Have you considered Semco? IMHO, it looks good, not oily, takes literally minutes to apply, looks good/works for 8+ months and then it's very easy wipe some more on.

It took me about 2 hrs to do about approx 110 ft of cap rail (about 10 inches across sides and top), two cockpit floorboards, two hatches and the bowprit grating. That was back in March, it's still looking reasonable but will need doing again soon. I've been quite impressed with it.

I could experiment on an area.... where can I get it in U.K.?

 

[npf1]

Pop around to my place and I'll give you some. I'm just near Wallingford so quite near you.

 

[Scotty_Tradewind]

Pop around to my place and I'll give you some. I'm just near Wallingford so quite near you.

PM sent
S.