Fin Keel? Long Keel?

daveg45

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Hi Everyone

There seems to be lots of opinion on here about the stability of modern light yachts v older heavier ones and I came across this on another forum site. I hope the author (a site moderator) doesn’t mind me quoting him but I found it to be very informative and goes a long way to answer some of the questions:-

I think that there is no one universally right answer here but a whole lot of strong opinions when it comes to keel types. If you are traditional in your view point then you would lean towards a boat with a full length keel. If you care more about performance and ease of handling then you might lean towards a fin keel.

There are good and bad offshore boats with all kinds of keels and so buying a boat with a full length keel will not guarentee that you will end up with a good offshore boat any more than buying a boat with a fin keel will guarentee a bad offshore boat. These are at best subjective decisions.

The way that I personally look at this, If your goal is to spend almost all of your time offshore and in really remote areas of the world, then a full keel boat probably makes sense. If you are going to island hop and perhaps occasionally make longer passages, and you will be traveling in places like the US, Carribean and Europe, then a properly designed and engineered fin keel boat makes more sense. BUT again that is only my opinion.

The material below is exerpted from an article that I had written for another venue but which might help you as well.

Full keels:
These were the earliest keels and they pretty much ran from the point of entry at the bow, to the aft most point of exit at the stern. Those are full keels in the fullest sense of the word.

They have some advantages; they theoretically form a long straight plane which keeps a boat on course better (greater directional or longitudinal stability). If you run aground they spread out the load over a larger area reducing the likelihood of damage. Once really planted they keep the boat from tipping over fore and aft. They are easier to haul and work on. You can spread out the ballast over a longer distance and so they can be shallower for the same stability. You have a greater length to bolt on ballast so it is a theoretically sturdier and simpler connection.

They have some disadvantages; A larger portion of the keel operates near the surface and near the intersection of the hull and keel which are both turbulent zones. They also have comparatively small leading edges, and the leading edge is the primary generator of lift preventing sideslip. Because of that they need a lot more surface area to generate the same lift. Surface area equates to drag so they need more sail area to achieve the same speed. Long keels tend to be less efficient in terms of lift to drag for other reasons as well. As a boat makes leeway water slips off of the high-pressure side of the keel to the low-pressure side of the keel and creates a turbulent swirl know as a tip vortex. This is drawn behind the boat creating drag in a number of ways. The longer the keel, the bigger the vortex, the greater the drag. So they need more sail area again to overcome this drag. To stand up to this greater sail area the boat needs more ballast and a stronger structure, which is why long keelboats are often heavier, as well. (Of course, then the spirol starts again as more sail area is needed to overcome that additional weight as well. It is the classic weight breeding more weight design cycle) Full keels tend to be much less maneuverable.

Fin keels:
By the classic definition of a fin keel any keel whise bottom is less than 50% of the length of the boat is a fin keel. Fin keels came into being in an effort to reduce drag. Cut away the forefoot or rake the stem, as well as, move the rudderpost forward and rake it sharply and pretty soon you have a fin keel. Today we assume that fin keels mean a separated rudder (skeg hung or spade) but in fact early fin keels had the rudder attached in a worst of all worlds situation. They offer all of the disadvantages of both full and fin keels, but with none of the virtues. Unknowing or unscrupulous brokers will often refer to boats with fin (or near fin) keels as full keel if they have an attached rudder.

Fin keels with separate rudders seem to be the most commonly produced keel form in the US these days. (I could be wrong, there is a resurgence of full keels these days)

Fin keels have some advantages as well. They have less drag as explained above so they typically make less leeway and go faster. You can get the ballast down lower so in theory they are more stable for their weight. They are more maneuverable. They take better advantage of the high efficiency of modern sail plans and materials.

They have some disadvantages as well, many of these have been offset or worked around by modern technology but at some level they are still accurate critiques. They have less directional stability than long keel boats so the tend to wander more under sail. On most boats under 40-50 feet, there is a tendancy for dynamic directional stability to be more critical to course holding than the directional stability that comes from the a long keels greater longitudinal moment of intertia. Since directional stability as a product of the dynamic balance between the sail plan and underbody is so important to directional stability, in practice many fin keel boats actually hold a course as well as a full keel. In general though you can expect to make more small course adjustments with a fin keel. It is sometimes argued that the lower helm loads on a fin keeler requires less energy to make each of these corrections so a fin keel may also require less energy to maintain course. This I think is a product of the individual boat and could lead to a debate harder to prove than the number of angels that can dance on the head of a pin.

Fin keels are harder to engineer to withstand a hard grounding and when aground they are more likely to flop over on their bow or stern. (Although in 37 years of sailing, I have never heard of anyone actually experiencing this.) Fins typically have deeper draft. They are easier to pivot around and get off in a simple grounding.
 
Dave, (gosh ! I am fisrt lol) !

the modern underwater profile NEEDS to be driven, it is useless when stalled. Thats the problem for me.. along with the damage on any underwater impact, the exposed rudder etc...

the abilty for the boat to broach when stalled, big worry, the ability to surf, big worry, no control when the slide stops.

inability to safely take the ground.

But of course, and I stress.. my .. opinions... nothing more.
 
I think this illustration pinched from Spurr's Boatbook (he won't mind, he's an old friend!) gives a good idea of the various underwater profiles.
hullshapes600x421.jpg


Personally, I have experience of fin and spade rudder, fin and skeg and full keel boats and they each have their vices and virtues. Clearly a full keel with protected rudder is a more robust design, better able to take the ground. They also have a solid seakindly motion and heave-to very well. However, I have been through a major storm in a Ron Holland designed Swan 42 with the typical deep fin and spade rudder and it performed admirably. We hove-to for 12 hours and she settled very nicely in 50 - 60 knots and huge seas; I never felt seriously concerned. She made a fine long distance live aboard for her owners, too, crossing the Atlantic and cruising the Med for a number of years. On the other hand my Jeanneau 32' cruiser/racer was a nightmare as a serious cruising boat.
Some may find my article on cruising boat considerations of interest; some might not! Here:
http://www.saltyjohn.co.uk/resources/Defining%20the%20cruising%20boat.pdf
 
I think that's broadly correct.

If you leave England head south and turn left you can day sail all the way to Turkey with just a few overnights i.e. always within a 2 day forecast period. No problem for a fin keeler.

If you leave England head south and turn right, different ball game. The heavily built long keeler comes into it's own. Too many fin keelers lose their rudders or keels (or leaking keel bolts) on ocean passages for peace of mind.

Interestingly long fin and full skeg hung rudder boats weren't mentioned. For anybody who likes a fin keel but wants to go ocean sailing I think they are a reasonable compromise and they are usually built stronger than fin keelers.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I have been through a major storm in a Ron Holland designed Swan 42 with the typical deep fin and spade rudder and it performed admirably.

[/ QUOTE ]I think you are absolutely correct: there is no black and white on this issue. There are a lot of long keel boats that will not go anywhere for love or money and modern fin keels that are a nightmare to handle. But there are a lot of good designed boats between these extremes, and the Swan you have experienced is a good example of a modern fin keel design that can also behave very well in bad weather. I have been in close to hurricane conditions on a Swan 59 and it was behaving very well. My own boat, a Sweden Yachts, is another example of this design principle. I am not a naval engineer, but I think it has a lot to do with the deep underwater hull sections and a lot of weight well deep down. Many modern hull design are very shallow and flat and I think that is a larger problem, stability wise, than whether the keel is long or fin. This is just an amateur view but with a lot of practical experience.

Given a choice in the Med, I would go for a fin keel and a big spade rudder everyday because they give such a good handling ability in small harbours and tight marinas (which is your normal operating environment). In ocean conditions, I would not go out in anything less than a Swan/Sweden type hull form or a more traditional long keel boat type. I know that people have crossed oceans in Bav/Ben type boats (and a lot less seaworthy boats as well...) but my personal view is that my life is too short to take those kind of risks.
 
My boats,
Bilge keel Westerly 25, to Med and back in 72-74, great boat, Rival 32, long fin and skeg, to Med and back in 92-93, great boat.
Roberts 44, long keel, Atlantic circuit 96-03, great boat.
Modern French cats and monos skippering in Caribb.
Present Nic32, long keel.

Really they are all ok, I obviously prefer the longer keel, perhaps slower, option, but I can appreciate the, in my view, valid argument that a fast boat is possibly able to outrun bad weather. I have seen many instances also when a cat or drop keeler has been able to anchor/go places I cannot get to, can be a very enviable advantage in a lot of increasingly crowded anchorages.
 
In 1974 the Royal Navy bought 2 Ohlson 35 racing boats, Flashlight and Thunderflash for the Naval Engineering College in Plymouth. These were the dogs whatnots of offshore racing boats at the time. Every one said they were radical and would need a fulltime crew to race them and would need careful handling to be safe offshore. Indeed when racing them we had them on their ears on many occasions but they also won a lot of races.

I was in Hornet sailing club last week in Gopsort and saw my old boat (Flashlight) on the boat lift. Her hull shape was well into the 'best of both worlds' category shown above, quite traditional by current standards and nowhere near as radical as current AWBs. As the owner of the Jeanneau that seems to have contributed to this debate, I just wonder what people will be saying about what is safe and not safe in another 33 years??????
 
Re: Fin Keel? Long Keel? Right answer to the wrong question

I don't disagree with any of what Daveg says but I think it could be very missleading so at the risk of a rather long reply I am going to challenge this one! The problem is that from an engeneering stance boats are about the ultimate in intigrated design but what you do is to seperate out the keel performance and consider this on its own. I would say there are two important issues that must also be considered. The first is seaworthyness the second is performance. Everyone metions aspects of this and it comes down to stalled performance and structural integrety. Stalled performance is largly a matter of the ratio between keel area and topsides loading, both windage and wave generated. Stuctural integrety is to do with both the loads generated (a deep heavy geal generates higher loading than a ligh shallow one, same for rudders) and both how the joint to the hull is made (risk of attachment failure) and how loads ar transmitted to the hull (risk of keel/ rudder loads causing hull damage) From this piont the traditional hour glass profile has the smothes and strongest transmission of loads ito the hull and a very short bolt on keel to a canoe body profile whith spade rudder has potentially the weekest generating massive stress concentrations at the keel root and the lower rudder bearing. That this can be done is demonstrated by the success of boats like the open 60's but the recent keel failures in the press are a reminder of how difficult it is. To my way of thinking if a boat is to be classed as a cruising boat the implication is that it is designed for extended use in a wide range of conditions without frequent checks/maintainance and the designer should go for high structural integrety over absolute performance. The other aspect of this is that the keel is not just stuck on the hull but is effectively the other half of the sail plan, consider it a a sail on the other end of the mast balencing the rig. You then get the same issues with the rig, tall high aspect rigs with narrow sheet andgle may go to windward very well but gennerate very high stresses which have to be transmitted via the keel stem and chainplates through the hull and into the keel. Lower the mast high and braden the sail base and sheet angles and the stress drops dramatically. We are not talking pounds here but more likely tons the differnce in loads between a modern round the cans racer pushed hard and a traditional boat like the nic 32 could well be a factor of 10 on hull stresses and possibly much more at the critical pionts on rudder bearing and keel root. So you not only need to look at the keel but alst floors, chainplates, deck beams and bulkheads.
Looking at performance. Yes its quite right that larger wetted areas tend to mean more drag and thin narrow keels generate higher lift to drag ratios at speed but at captain slarty pionts out don'd generate any when stopped. this can cause problems when heaving to as the boat wont stay up to wind and will almost cirtainly have much more leeway. It can also be a problem in rough going if turbulance from to boat pitching through the waves stops the keel working as it should so again you could get far more leeway just when you dont want it. Again though there is more to it, couple a narrow fin with a light canoe body which effectively sits on top of the water and you not only have nothing to stop leeway but also very little to stop the sea and wind pushing the bow off and lots of topsides for both to get a grip on. Compare that to a traditional hull with maybe 1/2 of its area below thw water line and half the hight of topsides and you have something that sits in, not on the water and gets thrown around much less. Captain slarty again metions surfing, flat shallow hulls with narrow fins are designed to do it but the difference between a controlled surf and a broach is marginal and unpredictable, it can as easily be triggered by a bit bigger following wave as to much canvas. Its not that a traditional hull can't broach but it will do it more gently and with lots of warning rather than a sudden and unpredictable snap so you have more chanch to save the situation. The other important aspect about performance is to question just what it is! Yes a light displacement boat with high aspect foils will have a higher top speed particularly to windward but be honest how many people when cruising are pushing the boat to anywhere near its performance limit? Its to hard on both the gear and the crew. I would say that good cruising performance is the ability to maintain good avererages under all conditions with the minimum stress on boat and crew. Something the more traditional heavyweight long keeler tends to do much better than the mor 'performance' orientated moder designs. The final performace piont is the myth that longh keelers are difficult around a marina. this is just techneque, if you know how they will turn 360 either way in there own length and in fact the greater weight and grip on the water makes for less problems with a gust of wind spinning the bow off. I would reverse it and say a light fin keeler particularly wit high topsides is going to be more unpredicable and difficult to handle. I think the myth comes about because you can drive a the fin like a car with the stearing wheel so it comes naturally for most people. A long keeler is steered by bursts engine trusts and balencing the air drag so needs to be learnt, its nothing like driving a car!

So I think the real question should be why 'performace' oriented boats with short fins and spade rudders have become the norm over the last 30 years? The answers I would come up with are first that the idea of the cruiser/racer was marketed in the 70's & 80's as the answer for the owner who wanted to both race round the cans with the lads on a weekend and to take the family away on holiday for a cruise. The touble is that what you actually get is a heavy slow racer and an even worse cruiser. Much better to either race cruisers on handicap or have a racer and charter for the family holiday the concept simply does not hold up as and engeneering brief because the goals are incompatable - design me a baot that is as light as possible for speed but has plenty of weight to gve a comfortably motion in a seaway! Or design for minimum weight and windage for max windward performance but with good roomy accomadation and plenty of stowage space! no I can't it's one or the other. The second piont is simply cost. Until you get into exotic lig carbon hulls and PRB rigging boats ar basically priced by the ton reflecting the materials and labour that goes into the biuld so a traditional heavyweight cruser of about 35ft and weight 6-8tons is going to cost around £120k, a lightweight cruser/racer at about 3tons is going to be more like £60k. They simply got priced off the market! I think that purchase and berthing costs have much more influence on moder boat design that seaworthyness of fitness for purpose. This has relegated the traditional cruiser to a 'specialist' nieche market largly ignored by the volume builders.

So the answer is - be clear about what you want a boat to do, design it from the keel up to emphasise those qualities and you will have a wonderful boat. Try and make a 'jack of all trades' that will fulfill several functions and it will do none of them well but its how the whole design fits together that counts.
 
Re: Fin Keel? Long Keel? Right answer to the wrong question

I've owned boats with long keel, cutaway keel and fin keel with spade rudder and my experience is in complete disagreement with what other posters are saying. Long keels are the hardest to keep tracking in a seaway. Once they start to turn they want to keep turning. With a spade rudder you can quickly correct to prevent a broach. And a broach in a 4m sea in a long keel or a fin keel feels pretty much the same. An autopilot has a much easier job on a spade rudder. Sure spade rudders will stall when the boat is pushed and cause it to snap up to windward but a long keel with a stumpy rig will never go fast enough when pushed to snap anywhere. They end up just dragging through the water making 45 deg leeway. Spade rudders are better under power when there is no cross wind. Add 25 knots of cross wind and getting out of a marina berth single handed is almost impossible. But a long keel, no problem. Have to agree on drying out. A long keel is far superior. And while I might feel safer in the middle of the ocean in a long keel boat, give me a fin keel if you are trying to beat off a lee shore with a fouled prop. I would choose fin keel for cruising because i would rather get there at 7 knots than 4 knots.
 
My Adriana was a Rhodes design, basically a scaled down version of the Rhodes Reliant. Very pretty, sailed well despite her hull profile and displacement.
The Martin design looks a very able long distance cruiser; the site doesn't give much information so it's difficult to assess what sort of displacement she is or if that is a skeg mounted rudder in the drawing. Any boat built for such an experienced sailor, designed by Martin and built by Concordia has to be something special. I'll bet the cost was eye watering!
 
IMHO simply deciding on a boat choice because of it's keel layout is somehow missing a point or two if you want to cruise further afield.
No doubts longer keels are more sea kindly and overall, safer, but they usually come with two major disadvantages.
1. Usually slower (meaning you are out at sea and at risk longer).
2. Usually part of a narrower / more cramped design (compared with a typical fin set up).
I fully appreciate those with this style of boat think its the bees knees, but we all know the majority of winds experienced on say a cruising circumnavigation are going to be light - unless of course you go far north and far south. Plus most favoured cruising grounds tend to be warm if not hot. Plus adequate storage and living space can make the difference twix living in a holiday apartment, or a gaol.
So IMHO one should take all these factors into consideration (plus more) when making a decision, not just the keel.
Good luck
JOHN
 
First, lets all agree that long keels don't do windward efficiently. So, if you want to be able to do windward, don't do long keel.

In the whole conversation so far, a couple of mis-conceptions about ease of steering have cropped up.

There are two elements to 'ease of steering'.
1. Stability, the tendency of a boat to track straight through disturbances
2. Rudder power, the ease with which the rudder can correct those disturbances, or overcome 'stability' in order to manouevre.

There are two elements (again!) to stability. First, boats resist being rotated about their vertical axis, and this resistance will depend on the immersed length. Obviously, long keel boats are going to be more difficult to rotate than short keel boats; Quite simply, the anti-rotating forces are much closer to the front and the back than with a shorter keel.

So long keels need big rudders/bursts of engine/bow thrusters to compensate. However, in a seaway, this particular type of 'stability' is a mixed blessing. Sure, the boat doesn't want to rotate, but sadly, a passing wave will produce differing forces at the bow and stern (far more so than on a shorter keel) so the long keel is more easily disturbed in a seaway.

The other type of stability is directional stability, the tendency of a boat to 'flip straight' into the direction the water is flowing past. Interestingly, that's nothing to do with keel length. It's all to do with where the boat's centre of gravity is, compared to its centre of lateral resitance (CLR). The further aft the centre of lateral resistance, the quicker the boat will flip straight (and the further forward, the more it'll try to flip backwards!).

You can play a lot with the degree of stability in short keel design by shifting the keel fore and aft. Some designs in the past got it badly wrong and had to fit additional skegs. A tragic (aerodynamic) example of instability was Bluebird - once airborne, the centre of aerodynamic resistance was ahead of the CG; she rotated in pitch to fly backwards.

Traditional long keel boats have been deep astern, and shallow forward, which puts most of their CLR well aft; directionally very stable, difficult to steer astern. Others have a big rake aft, and much deeper forefoot; these have reduced directional stability. It is possible to make a directionally unstable boat with a long keel . . .

Conclusions? Long keel isn't necessarily more stable, but it's evolution is such that that is a very likely outcome. And short keels don't have to be unstable - just move them aft a bit. And for sure, shorter keels will always be easier to turn.
 
Nobody has really mentioned the "in between" types of hull configuration here, what's the consensus on the sort of 70s/80s boats typified by Westerlys, older Bavs, Gib'sea etc. A lot of these don't have the long keel and wine glass cross section of a classic cruiser, but nor do they have the sailplane wing style keel and half a teacake cross section of the most modern AWBs.

Do these compromise boats have any credibility as long distance cruisers or any as comfortable liveaboards with reasonable performance.

How do they compare for stability with the boats at the extremes for example.

In other words; does anyone have a favoured compromise which is stable, goes in a reasonably straight line in a seaway, goes well to windward and is spacious, comfortable and durable to live aboard.
 
Yes! Grehan! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
mor_pressure.jpg

.
Her large cast iron grounding plate and cast iron keel combination gives her excellent stability.
She's nearly as stable keel-up as she is keel-down (leeway's quite noticeable though /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif).
Sails well. Goes anywhere (keel-up draft - 850mm). Really well designed and comfortable inside.

Interested? PM me.
 
>a passing wave will produce differing forces at the bow and stern (far more so than on a shorter keel) so the long keel is more easily disturbed in a seaway.

Don't know where you read/got that from but having sailed both types of boat the exact opposite is true. Waves shove fin keelers around (the wider the aft sections the worse it is), long keelers just plough on.
 
Hmm, I'm a fan of lift, swing and bilge keelers.

Dad's first sailing boat was a Sailfish18 (which has a lovely round cross section hull like yours Grehan).

My brothers and I used to have great fun adding lashings of leeway by surreptitiously winding his drop keel up bit by bit as he was studiously NOT /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif racing other boats close hauled on windermere lol.

Then the next one was a jaguar/alacrity with swing keel and drying out keels, great for negotiating the river at Newby Bridge

We're still deciding how much to spend, what to buy, where to sail it and whether we'll eventually live aboard full time or only part timers.

So very interested in ALL opinions and getting a tremendous amount of info and inspiration from reading these forums, thanks all
 
Re: Fin Keel? Long Keel? Right answer to the wrong question

[ QUOTE ]
So I think the real question should be why 'performace' oriented boats with short fins and spade rudders have become the norm over the last 30 years? The answers I would come up with are first that the idea of the cruiser/racer was marketed in the 70's & 80's as the answer for the owner who wanted to both race round the cans with the lads on a weekend and to take the family away on holiday for a cruise. The touble is that what you actually get is a heavy slow racer and an even worse cruiser.

[/ QUOTE ]Sir, I have to totally disagree with you.

Having sailed and raced many 'fin and spade' cruiser/racers now for about twenty years and presently owning one; I believe it can actually be the perfect compromise between the two. The design of a cruiser/racer calls for a very big rig that can handle a large sailplan, to create speed. This big rig needs to be balanced by a large and heavy underwater profile. So the result is that you get a cruiser that can be very fast even in light winds, but when in a big blow; you reduce sails but you still have all that heavy underwater profile that gives you a lower center of gravity and hence a lot of more stability than your normal "cruiser" and certainly more than a modern Bav/Ben type boat.

A modern cruiser is designed to have maximum above-water hull space (as opposed to maximum sailplan in a racer), often a high placed central cockpit, giving a high center of gravity and a lot of windage. Add to this that you probably have inmast furling meaning that you will still have the weight of the sails high up even when you reef; and the result is that you have a comparably more unstable boat in bad weather.

For me; I have found the modern cruiser/racer designs like a Swan, X-Yachts, J-Boats or a Sweden Yachts to be the most fun and safe to sail in any weather condition. Add to that the great handling ability in close quarters and you have a dream boat, all in IMHO of course.
 
[ QUOTE ]
First, lets all agree that long keels don't do windward efficiently. So, if you want to be able to do windward, don't do long keel.

I agree with most of what you say Jim, but would take issue (a little /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) with the above, I'm not going to pretend that even the best sailed long keeler will hold an similarly sized X-boat to windward, but hey, they're not at all bad. The problem with rating one boat against another is that you never know how the other's being sailed, but I would suggest that a well sailed long keeler is not going to lose much against an averagely (is that a word?) sailed 'cruiser' with a fin keel. Either that, or we see an awful lot of badly sailed fin keelers around here! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

One advantage of a long keel that hasn't been mentioned is storage. With all that space for tanks/diving cylinders et al in the bilge, the weight is doing something useful and ALL the under bunk lockers are available for storage.
 
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