Filling transducer screw holes in the transom?

[wipe_out]

Hi,

I need to move my transducer down a bit to try and get it working as planing speed but there isn't enough movement in the bracket with the current screw holes so I need to fill them and drill new holes about 10mm below the current ones..

Question is can I just pump the old holes full of sikaflex or do I need to drill them out to remove the old sealer and fill them with resin/epoxy/something else?

 

[sprocker]

Is there room to put more holes in the bracket rather than re drilling the transom?

 

[Poignard]

Or make a s/s extension plate.

 

[wipe_out]

Is there room to put more holes in the bracket rather than re drilling the transom?

No, the bracket has two slits, on on each side, where the screws pass through to provide some adjustment.. Moving the bracket down the screws hit the top of the slits in the bracket before I reach the point I need it to be..

 

[wipe_out]

Transducer and bracket image..
http://www.chsmith.com.au/media/ext...owrance-transom-mount-hdi-transducers-9d4.jpg

 

[jfm]

I'd drill them out and put gelocat in = invisible repair. V quick to do
But squirting polyurethane adhesive in would be fine too, if you're not bothered about invisibility

 

[vas]

Since you're just hoping that lowering the transducer will allow you to have data at planning speed, and since that means testing, I'd go for the simpler option of leaving the ss bracket where it is for the moment, and get two new straight pieces of flat ss with two holes (or even better a hole and a slit), undo the transducer and bolt it on the slit and bolt the other side of the two plates onto the ss bracket (either using two bolts or a longer one and spacers in the middle (a few M10 nuts for example).

This way you can test different positions, angles, and even distances from the transom without much trouble, establish what works and then fabricate a new bracket (most likely) or simply move the bracket up or down or whatever

cheers

V.

 

[sprocker]

I agree with Vas, SS extension plates which will allow you to experiment is the way I would start.

 

[wipe_out]

I'd drill them out and put gelocat in = invisible repair. V quick to do
But squirting polyurethane adhesive in would be fine too, if you're not bothered about invisibility

Thanks jfm, If just filling it with gelcoat will make a good repair then will probably go that way.. I thought gelcoat was only for surface repair and that I would have to fill the hole itself with resin or epoxy and then gelcoat over the top to clean it up..

Since you're just hoping that lowering the transducer will allow you to have data at planning speed, and since that means testing, I'd go for the simpler option of leaving the ss bracket where it is for the moment, and get two new straight pieces of flat ss with two holes (or even better a hole and a slit), undo the transducer and bolt it on the slit and bolt the other side of the two plates onto the ss bracket (either using two bolts or a longer one and spacers in the middle (a few M10 nuts for example).

This way you can test different positions, angles, and even distances from the transom without much trouble, establish what works and then fabricate a new bracket (most likely) or simply move the bracket up or down or whatever

Thanks vas, you make a good point.. I will see if I can put something in place that will allow some testing and easy adjustment.. From rough lining up with a length of wood as a guide I need it about 10-15mm lower..

 

[salar]

It is really, really important that you clean out the old holes and fill deeply with underwater epoxy. If you don't make a good watertight repair, water will seep into the wooden core of the transom and then you will be in big trouble. At the base of the transom water will be under pressure so it will find an entry point in the smallest crack.