Filler for engine beds

S

Spuddy

Well-Known Member
Joined
8 Jul 2003
Messages
1,958
Location
Kent
Visit site
Removed engine and found angle iron bearers a bit too loose - coach bolts rusted away. So I want to make good the old bolt holes : manky and full of rust, which I'll drill out oversize. But then need some nice porridge to fill up holes with. Epoxy plus what ? I'll redrill pilot holes and then bolt will bite in to it. Then there's the wet and oily habitat. I've got colloidal silica but I reckon it's too hard. Any suggestions please ?
 
Colloidal silica should be fine. Do you simply plan to drill new holes through it that are the proper size for the bolts?

Another thing to consider is gluing some threaded rod into the holes (with epoxy and colloidal silica) and then fixing the engine mountings with nuts etc on the studs that protrude. West System recommend this and its very simple - just be careful to align the studs before the epoxy sets.
 
Sorry folks didn't make it totally clear it's the wood bulkhead things.
Epoxy bedded bolts ? Of course, and removes my reservations about coachbolts.
Thamks
 
Is there any thing stoping you from drilling right through your engine bearers and bolting right through angle iron and bearer.
 
We have used Stainless steel threaded rod set into a mixture of epoxy resin and Micro Fibres, very strong, very water resistant.

When drilling the holes give them a slight taper, wider at the bottom.

Avagoodweekend......
 
<<When drilling the holes give them a slight taper, wider at the bottom.>> You might be interested to know that masons used to set studding in walls and floors with driven lead strip (or molten, depends on the angle). It was called (here's the connection) cold yachting when driven and hot yachting when poured. I have no idea why it was called 'yachting.'
 
Hi

Try local builders merchant, ask about "resin anchor systems" some are epoxy based and some polyester/vilynester. It comes in a mastic type tube, the resin and hardener are in the same tube but kept apart, they then mix together in the long mixing nozel/applicator. Drill your hole over size (12mm hole for 10mm threaded bar), squirt the mixture into the hole, then push/turn your stud into the hole. You will be able to load them in about 30 mins depending on temperature.
I just hung some very large gates with some from The Build Centre cost about £10 per tube and you get two nozels with it. It's bloody good stuff and won't exert any expansion loads into surounding areas.
 
OK - but it will still be strong enough in this application. Got to be better than microballoons etc...

How about the 'high density filler that West market - except I don't know what is in the stuff.

The last time I fitted engine mounting studs into epoxy I didn't use any filler at all. I poured the epoxy into the blind holes and 'screwed' the studding into the wet epoxy and mopped up the mess as it was squeezed out. Twas the professional boat builder who said that he mounted large primary winches in this way and they get more load than the engine studs do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top