fibreglassing: working temperature?

[frilaens]

I need to glass in the fuel tank (it's wooden housing and the tank itself to the hull) and I was wondering if temperature is a factor to the result? Can I work on it now in the winter without compromising the result?

Andy

 

[steffen]

Temperature is absolutely vital for a good result whether you use polyester or epoxy resin (i would advise epoxy).
It depends a bit on the type of resin and the type of hardener you use but i would advise not to work with temperatures under 10C.
Another condition is the humidity. Try to work on a day with low relative humidity.
Be carefull with glass fibres. I have developed a serious allergy for it after constructing a new rudder; when i am not very carefull (full face mask, coverall, gloves, etc.) i wake up next mornig with fully closed eyes. Scared my s**tless the first time it happened.

Happy sailing, Steffen

 

[oldsaltoz]

G'day Andy,

Agree with Steffan's comments re temp and humidity, I would only use an epoxy resin thou, as it provides a stronger bond. Go for one that sets fast and use only cloth designed for epoxy resin (No chopped strand).

If you run a fan heater it will pull the humidity down (about 72% or less is best) and raise the ambient temperature (If you are comfortable in a 'T' shirt it's ok), you could also apply some heat to outside of the hull with a lamp.

Have the heating on for at least a couple of hours before you start mixing resin and hardener, should be no problems.

Hope this helps....
Avagoodweekend Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif......

 

[snowleopard]

irritating...

glass dust from grinding always irritates though you build up a tolerance after a time, there is no swelling etc. polyseter resin has no such effect.

epoxy resin on the other hand can cause severy allergic reactions. once you have developed the allergy it is permanent and you can't go near the stuff.

 

[Boathook]

I have found epoxy resin (SP system) is ok with temperatures below 10 centigrade but it does take a long to cure, even the low temp mix. If the work is structural and or you require strength invest in a fan heater and electricity to get the process well started and if possible cured. If the conditons are damp you will end up with a bloom that needs removing before the next layer. Make sure that you clean all the surfaces with acetone after grinding back and before bonding.
These are my personal views and so far all bits have stayed stuck!