Fibreglass over Plywood

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Hi Guys,

Firstly, I apologise for my first post being off-topic, but this forum seems to have a wealth of experience in fibreglassing over wood for wet environments and I was hoping to tap into this knowledge.

I have an Intex above ground kids swimming pool and with summer approaching my 6 year old son has asked whether we could have a water slide. Commercially available garden slides are not suitable for mechanical reasons, and they are all a bit on the small side too. We would like to make something a bit longer and tailored to suit our garden and pool setup. A plan is forming in my mind to make a slide from wood and to waterproof it with epoxy resin having read posts on here and watched videos on YouTube. I think making a wooden structure and waterproofing it would be easier than making a full fibreglass slide with moulds etc. I'm handy with wood but I have next to no experience in fibreglass. The last time I did any fibre work was in the mid-90s as a teenager in sixth form college, and that was using polyester resin and chopped strand mat.

So I have a bunch of questions and thoughts on how I should approach the project. Of course the key thing is that the slide surface is smooth and slippery when wet. The slide shall only be wet when in use as pumps shall be turned off otherwise so this may relax requirements compared to a boat situation where it will spend extended time in contact with water. I'm willing to cover the slide with a custom tarpaulin when not is use (much like the pool) which will keep the sun off it so could help with UV damage. The top-side surface area shall be approx 96 square feet (~9 square metres / 3 sheets of 8'x4'), and the bottom side (not in contact with pool water) of the same size. This is not a long term project. If we got 5 or 6 years out of it that would be great.

1. Given my use case and ability to compromise, what are the merits of epoxy vs polyester resin? I understand that polyester resin is considerably cheaper but would it withstand my use case or is it likely to fail?
2. Choice of glass materials? I am leaning towards a woven cloth rather than a chopped strand mat. I read that CSM does not work well with epoxy, but also I am concerned with stray fibres sticking up about the working surface given we shall be sliding over it. I think that woven cloth may give a smoother surface finish too.
3. Cloth weights and number of layers? I don't require the fibreglass to provide any strength to the wooden structure, except perhaps to where the plywood sheets abut to ensure a smooth transition. I shall of course look for wooden mechanical means to keep the joints flush (Pocket screws, biscuit joints, dowels etc).

My basic plan is to seal the wood with resin before filling any internal corners. After which I would reinforce corner joints, and then layer up. After the final layer I would sand the top surface to obtain a smooth surface before then building up resin thickness to allow sanding to final working surface. Does this sound sensible?

I would like to colour the resin either blue or perhaps white (to reflect heat from sun). Is colour best added throughout or only on top layers? Is this added to the resin directly?

Many thanks
-Tim
 
The basic idea of using wood plus glass-epoxy to build a water slide is a good one.

Polyester is not well suited to be combined with wood as it does not fully adhere.
There is chopped stranded mat available for use with epoxy nowadays, but be very sure it is mentioned to be suitable for epoxy by the supplier. Standard chopped stranded mat is only for polyester.

For a slide I would prefer using cloth though.
But strictly speaking, if the construction of the slide is stiff and strong by itself, you could use the epoxy just for water proofing, as long as you use it in construction as well, to prevent water ingress.
Paint well after applying the epoxy as epoxy generally cannot handle UV.
 
Getting a surface smooth enough that you can slide effectively naked skin over it is going to take a lot of effort

Not sure I understand why a premade slide isn't suitable

A flume is made of sections half pipe in glass... Depending on size, that may be my starting position
 
What he said above. The epoxy would only be for waterproofing and since it not a compound curve structure, a covering of light woven cloth would do. Personally, I would go for several coats of polyeurethane paint and not bother with the glass. You will have to overcoat the epoxy anyway because of UV, unless you are religious about covering after use.
Usually glass is applied over ply to stop the top laminate 'checking' but if you get half decent meranti or okume for the exposed top, then paint will do it. What I can reccomend is a couple of coats of a water based epoxy to seal the wood before painting. Goes on very smoothly and dries quickly. First coat is diluted with water.
I have a boat where I did that and used it for several seasons without any further painting, but she was kept undercover between sails.
 
What he said above. The epoxy would only be for waterproofing and since it not a compound curve structure, a covering of light woven cloth would do. Personally, I would go for several coats of polyeurethane paint and not bother with the glass. You will have to overcoat the epoxy anyway because of UV, unless you are religious about covering after use.
Usually glass is applied over ply to stop the top laminate 'checking' but if you get half decent meranti or okume for the exposed top, then paint will do it. What I can reccomend is a couple of coats of a water based epoxy to seal the wood before painting. Goes on very smoothly and dries quickly. First coat is diluted with water.
I have a boat where I did that and used it for several seasons without any further painting, but she was kept undercover between sails.
I am of a similar mind, just make sure any edges are very smooth and well treated. If you really want to use epoxy then 'thin' the first coat to get penetration and if I recall correctly apply next coats while first one tacky. paint will be then needed for appearance and UV.
 
I'd be tempted to use a layer or two of heavy polythene and get the job done before the enthusiasm goes away.
A lot of £££ of materials being talked about.
 
As said I would also suggest filler in the corners then polyurethane paint. It can be brushed on easily with a reasonably smooth finish. If you want fibreglass then use a thin cloth then layers of resin over it to get the smooth finish. Epoxy sticks better but deteriorates in the sun so still needs to be painted. Polyester will probably be OK with pigment to make it white. (cooler) ol'will
 
Thank you all for your replies. "Checking" is something that I hadn't heard of before, but is essentially what I was worried about. While a few suggest just going without glass, from what I read online this is risky. I'm in two minds as not using glass would be much simpler and quicker. If I did use glass, what is the lowest weight and number of layers I could get away with just to prevent checking?

Thanks
Tim
 
Thank you all for your replies. "Checking" is something that I hadn't heard of before, but is essentially what I was worried about. While a few suggest just going without glass, from what I read online this is risky. I'm in two minds as not using glass would be much simpler and quicker. If I did use glass, what is the lowest weight and number of layers I could get away with just to prevent checking?

Thanks
Tim
If you must.. :), then one layer of 200gm would do it. That will stabilize the outer laminate of the ply and with an extra coat or two of resin to smooth it.
 
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