Feeding old wood ( before repainting ) or not. Ideas?

cygnusv

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We're just starting our 4th week on the bank and have rubbed the boat down and changed 7 (small) planks. Generally the hull is good for 65 year old (painted mahogany on oak). As on previous occasions I am noticing some drying out of hull planks, but am not concerned. However....

I wonder if I should 'feed' the wood before painting, but if so, with what? some mention boiled linseed oil - others warn that this is a bad idea. Any thoughts about linseed or possibly other compounds?

When I start the paint job in a couple of weeks, I'm using Rylards boat paint, and did wonder whether to forget about feeding the wood first and instead pre-coating all the woodwork with a couple of coats of well thinned down Rylards undercoat before using the rest of the undercoat un-thinned (according to temperature of course) before the 2 top coats.

All thoughts welcome.
 
We're just starting our 4th week on the bank and have rubbed the boat down and changed 7 (small) planks. Generally the hull is good for 65 year old (painted mahogany on oak). As on previous occasions I am noticing some drying out of hull planks, but am not concerned. However....

I wonder if I should 'feed' the wood before painting, but if so, with what? some mention boiled linseed oil - others warn that this is a bad idea. Any thoughts about linseed or possibly other compounds?

When I start the paint job in a couple of weeks, I'm using Rylards boat paint, and did wonder whether to forget about feeding the wood first and instead pre-coating all the woodwork with a couple of coats of well thinned down Rylards undercoat before using the rest of the undercoat un-thinned (according to temperature of course) before the 2 top coats.

All thoughts welcome.

Many years ago we (Combes Boatyard) stripped a varnished carvel folkboat to be revarnished. The owner specified that once sanded back it was to have a coat of thinned linseed oil. We were concerned that it may cause adhesion problems with subsequent layers of varnish. Happy to say it looked good nearly ten years later.
One issue post war mahogany can have is to lose the will to live, and become soft and brittle. It's possible that a good dose of linseed may help prevent that.

Rather than thinning the linseed with white spirit, thin it with Five Star Cuprinol.
 
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Raw linseed oil is fine under either paint or varnish, once you've let it soak in. (It's still the basis of many paints). But don't used 'boiled' oil -- it's either really heat-treated or more likely has driers added to it, but in either case it skins on the surface instead of soaking in.

Raw linseed can be thinned with mineral turps (white spirits), or even kero (paraffin) if necessary, in which case you might give it two or three coats before painting/varnishing.

Mike
 
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