Fairline Carrera starting problem.

[RCKWilson]

Hi

Could anyone help me out. I can't start the starboard engine without holding down the battery crossover switch. Engine then starts fine as does the port engine straight off the starboard key.

I have replaced both battery isolater switches and battery crossover solanoid.

All 3 batteries are new. If I remove port or starboard battery one at a time It makes no difference and will only start as explained above.

Any ideas greatly appreciated as always.

Thanks.

 

[volvopaul]

A similar thread has been placed on here before with another fairline which must have the same wiring set up. I'd say you can't have contact from the starboard battery positive as that engine is reliant on the positive side from the other batteries via the link switch to the starboard starter motor. Will the dash panels light up with the starboard battery? If not then the issue is between that battery and the dash. I'd be looking around the starter motor area for a poor connection. If that's not the case then the problem is on the high tension side , presume your getting a click only without the link switch? Or as I said nothing until the link switch is employed. Tell us more .

 

[RCKWilson]

Hi
Thanks for your reply.
The dash all works when I turn the starboard key.
I only get clicks when I turn the key to start which I assume is the coil on the starboard side. I have a new coil also and electronic ignition.
It fires up fine when i do the crossover and turn port ingnition on.

Are there any tests I can do to isolate the problem?

Thanks again for your time.

 

[volvopaul]

Hi
Thanks for your reply.
The dash all works when I turn the starboard key.
I only get clicks when I turn the key to start which I assume is the coil on the starboard side. I have a new coil also and electronic ignition.
It fires up fine when i do the crossover and turn port ingnition on.

Are there any tests I can do to isolate the problem?

Thanks again for your time.

The coil does not click, the click sound is the starter motor solenoid trying to pass high tension current across it's terminals to the brushes in the starter motor.
I'd say that's your problem, maybe then the solenoid gear is already engaged in the flywheel, therefore it won't turn the engine over.
I'd start by turning the engine by hand anti clockwise viewed from front of engine half a revolution, then try and start the engine from the key, you may find that cures the problem.

If the clicking is still present I'd say the starter motor is at fault.

 

[RCKWilson]

Hi Volvopaul

Excuse my lack of technical know how but If there was a problem with the starter motor and coil, how does the starboard engine start with the cross over switch being held down? That suggests that the starter motor and coil seem to work ok but not off the starboard key. Grrrraaaaa

I can't get my head around how these circuits work...

Thanks again.

 

[volvopaul]

Hi Volvopaul

Excuse my lack of technical know how but If there was a problem with the starter motor and coil, how does the starboard engine start with the cross over switch being held down? That suggests that the starter motor and coil seem to work ok but not off the starboard key. Grrrraaaaa

I can't get my head around how these circuits work...

Thanks again.

The reason the starter only clicks from it's dedicated battery is due to lack of high current power from it's dedicated battery, I'd be checking the thick cable from the starboard battery right through it's cable run to the starter motor. I would also remove the cables from the cut off switch, joint them on one terminal to bypass the cut off switch as in past years I've seen new ones that are faulty., then trace the cable right to the starter motor, checking with a meter for voltage .

 

[RCKWilson]

When the cut off switch is used is the current boosted and if there were cable issues to the starter would that not be a problem when diverted?

Thanks

 

[volvopaul]

When the cut off switch is used is the current boosted and if there were cable issues to the starter would that not be a problem when diverted?

Thanks

The cut off switch is a "cut off switch" to cut the power to the engine from it's dedicated battery. If you have power to the engine when it's off then I'd say someone has a wire not on the correct terminal, which may by the sounds of it be your problem.

The current amps are only boosted by the battery solenoid between the two sets of batteries, or as you call it the link which makes it work, I still say there is no connection from the dedicated battery which is where you need to look.

 

[RCKWilson]

Sorry I used 'cut off switch' instead 'battery solanoid'. I'll check cables as you have suggested. Many thanks for your time and help. I'll let you know how I get on!

 

[moresparks]

Not sure if this helps…
I spent hours trying to trace a starting fault on my Targa going round in circles. With “everything” disconnected except the multi-plug to the control panel I lost 1volt from the battery’s 12.7volts the moment the key is just turned to on. There is still 12.7volts at the battery and main starter motor supply. I checked the control panel off the boat with a 12volt supply and no voltage drop so I knew the panel was o/k. I even made a new wiring loom which eliminated the wiring.
I finally tracked down the problem and it was the resettable 40A fuse. It read fine under no load conditions but as soon as any current was drawn through it, the voltage dropped considerably. Putting a temporary short across the terminals the volts restored to normal and the engine turns over